Starting after long time....

[Puppy Mullet]

Hi.
I have a 70hp Johnson (1981) that has been sitting about 6 years..... I rebuilt the carbs, tuned it up, and never ran it again all this time.
Very few fresh water hours on the motor.
Could someone please give me a run down on what I should do before I turn the key on it after this length of time.
Thank you
Pup

[mud]

change the lower unit fluid, water pump and plugs. Make sure all old gas is out and make sure it has fresh oil. I would also say run the fogger thru it but I believe it has to be running to do that. If you put it up again for a while make sure you run the fogger thru it again to avoid rust on the cylinder walls. Other than that I would put some stabil in the gas oil mix or gas mix. Also would change all filters and make sure to pump grease in all fittings including the controls. Make sure the controls have smooth action and there are no kinks and nothing is binding. Turn the key a few times to turn the starter (not actually starting it) then check to see if its getting gas and oil. If all looks well try to run it a little. Im sure you will have to adjust carbs and idle and Im willing to bet she is going to smoke like a chimney for a few minutes of run time. Make sure your water pressure is up weather using ear muffs or a barrel. Avoid reving and keep the rpms below 2k. Good luck and let her idle for awhile before taking her out to ensure smooth flow of oil, water and gas. Watch her temp!

[Puppy Mullet]

Great Reply!
Whats a fogger? spray oil?
Any idea where I could find instructions online to do all that stuff like replacing the water pump?
Thank you Mud

[Capt.Skid]

Pull the spark plugs and squirt some oil in the
cylenders, then take a wrench and turn the engine over manually to make sure cylinders are lubed up good, then do all the above before trying to start it..If it was ok when you stored it it should be ok now, with the exceptiopn of the water pump, dry rotted more than likely and needs replaceing...

Good Luck,
Capt.Skid

[mud]

Should have directions in the owners manual and if you dont have that you should be able to download a copy from Johnson. If the water pump is dry rotted or not it will be a good Idea to replace it as it should be done every other season. I will change mine every season as it is a vital part of an outboard keeping the temps cool on it. A fogger lubes the cylinder walls for storage but if you do as Capt. Skid suggested you should be fine. Remember to not rush it and make sure everything is done correctly including the correct gap in your spark plugs before running. Once running let it heat up to operating temps before taking it out. For your first trip out dont go far and leave the fishing gear in the truck and maybe even have a trolling motor with a couple batteries incase something happens...or go out when its crowded so you wont have trouble finding a tow if you need one. Good luck and your welcome

[Puppy Mullet]

Im selling the boat to some old man thats just about done for.
He would just stand in the driveway lookin at my skeeter going to waste..

I like his pluck and plan to do right by him...
(its a 75 HP "stinger")
Thanks again. Pup

[Puppy Mullet]

Pulled plugs,
Put 4drops of the same oil I used in my gas in the end of a straw and blew/sprayed that in each cylnder....
Gapped and put new Champs in..
Turned motor over manually.
New fuel line and filter.
Added fuel stabalizer to 87 octain With 50:1 Quick Silver Oil...
Clicked it 2 times to test....
Fired right up with no more smoke than a new motor.
Now the water pump...
Thanks.

[mud]

sweet. If the older guy treats it this way each spring it will last. Ohh and dont forget the lower unit fluid as it will only take about 5 minutes to change. The hard part there will be getting the screw out and be sure not to touch the phillips head screw...big no no!!

[Puppy Mullet]

Well I told you guys I kind of liked this old man and knew he couldn't do stuff for himself and probably had no one to help him.

Well... It didn't idle smooth, so I took the carbs down (as far as I dared) and,cleaned them. New fuel lines. Debis in fuel filter. Buy new tanks.

Compression check

New stainless prop I had bought and never put on.

Boat looked rough. Except for the upholstery thats like new.
Wax don't cut it. Heck compound don't cut it.
So I wet sand, compound, polish, 2 coats of wax.
Arm falls off

Soft spot in floor. Replace all the flooring with good marine grade.
New carpet throughout.

Batteries about shot. Put new ones in.

Tires show dry rot. New tires, (sand and paint wheels)

The boat is like new now.
Its only been in the water maybe 60 times since I bought it in 1980. The motor has never been to a mechanic. EVER!

When we go to sign the title he says..
"The doctors give me about a year. Keep the boat here and use it all you want. When my time comes, I am giving it back to you. I just want someone to take me Crappie fishin a couple more times..."

[Cdog]

What goes around comes around. You are a good man Pup.

[dawgfsh]

Nice going pup,Cdog's right, What goes around comes around

[Puppy Mullet]

I told him Crappie fishin sucked and blasted him with rock salt.. :eek:

Question or 3

Model: 75 HP 1980 Johnson "Stinger" J75TRLCSA tilt/trim. large gear case.

15' Skeeter STET2230M81I

Lot of weight in rear. 3 batteries, 2, 6gal. tanks. an 2 big guys. (often a tank of shad toward the front)

I put a stabilizer on the engine when they first came on the market. Its kind of square and long.
Bolts on bottom of the thingamajig are creating drag I'm sure.
The sizes of the ones I see now are for "up to 75" and motors over 75 HP. What would you recommend for it?
The new stainless prop is 13 3/8s-17 pitch. Sound ok?

Whats the optimum RPMs for long life?

If you had to choose... A water temp gauge or a water pressure gauge?

[gus]

probably dont need the gauge - if she is peein she should be fine. rpms should probably not go over 5000 on typical outboard if u want it to live. nice thing u r doing, may the good karma come back - tight lines.

[Tmg]

I told him Crappie fishin sucked and blasted him with rock salt.. :eek:

Question or 3

Model: 75 HP 1980 Johnson "Stinger" J75TRLCSA tilt/trim. large gear case.

15' Skeeter STET2230M81I

Lot of weight in rear. 3 batteries, 2, 6gal. tanks. an 2 big guys. (often a tank of shad toward the front)

I put a stabilizer on the engine when they first came on the market. Its kind of square and long.
Bolts on bottom of the thingamajig are creating drag I'm sure.
The sizes of the ones I see now are for "up to 75" and motors over 75 HP. What would you recommend for it?
The new stainless prop is 13 3/8s-17 pitch. Sound ok?

Whats the optimum RPMs for long life?

If you had to choose... A water temp gauge or a water pressure gauge?

Take the stabilizer off. I just took one off my boat and picked up 4+ mph. You don't need a temp gauge.

If water stops flowing thru the sight tube, take cover off the motor and put your hand on the top rear of the motor. It should be warm, not hot (if you can leave your hand on it, it's ok). You probably have an automatic warning system that will make a warning sound to let ya know if it's run'n hot.

Most outboards should a max of 5500rpm and with economical range of 3800 - 4200rpm.

It's funny how things work out isn't it Greg:cool:

Hope to Sea Ya soon

-Sea Terp

[Puppy Mullet]

I had forgot about the alarm. Hope they don't go bad.
The old digital tech can hardly be read any longer so new one needed. Never had a speedometer on it.

The stabilizer did improve the hole shot, an lessen the cavitation back when I put it on.

Hopefully with this new prop, one is not needed.

Thanks Robert... :cool:
Gus also.. Good tips.