Rod Action?

[kb]

On the rods I have used or seen action is listed as ultra lite to xheavy. I read a lot of post with slow to fast action. I know it refers to rod taper but how does it affect performance? Bite dectection and castability,etc.
Thanks for any info. KB.

[PlankCaster]

kb,
slow and fast ratings actually have to do with the taper of the rod. A lot of guys call this the action of the rod, in addition to the "real" action or weight rating. I am guilty of this myself. A slow taper rod will bend or "load" through a longer section of the rod than a fast action, which will bend mainly in the upper tip. Hope this helps some
Tight lines and popped riggers

[Smoothbore54]

Think of the rod as a spring

The functions of this "spring" are to store energy ( load ) at the beginning of a cast, and then to release that energy ( unload ) at the end of the cast.

The other function of this spring, is to act as a "Shock Absorber" when fighting a fish.

First We'll talk about casting.

Generally speaking, when loaded within it's working range, ( line weight ) a "slow action rod" will flex, over approximately 60% of it's lenght. A "medium action" should flex about 40% to 50% of it's length. A "fast action" 20% to 30% and an "extra fast" rod will flex less than 20%.

This is easily determined by holding the rod at waist level, parallel to the floor, and then pressing the tip against the floor and observing where the parabolic curve ends.

In My experience, a slower rod is easier to cast, but less precise. So I like a slow rod for bait fishing, where I'm not as concerned with placement, as I am with distance. And prefer a faster rod, when attempting to accurately cast lures, or bait.

The reason the faster rod is more accurate, is because the rod tip stabilizes more quickly, during the cast. ( less swishing back and forth. You might think that Your rod tip stops when You "release" a cast, but it doesn't. )

The other time that rod action is important, is when fighting a fish. In this situation, slower is always better.

As a rule, You always want to keep Your rod tip up when You're working a fish, but like most rules, this one has exceptions.

What You really want, is to keep the line's relative angle to the rod at about 90 degrees. This way You always get the full benefit of the rods shock absorbing action.

It's a common phenomena, that large fish are often lost, right at the boat or pier. There are many causes and factors at work at those times, but raising the rod tip, in order to bring the line within reach, is a very common mistake. When the fish is "at your feet" so to speak, the line is more or less vertical, and You need to keep the rod horizontal, in order to prevent break-offs.

[kb]

Thanks for the replies. KB.

[catman]

SmoothBore....Best explination I've ever seen on rod action. Thanks.

Catman.

[davehunt]

Smoothbore54,

Great explanation, I especially liked the tip about keeping the line to rod tip angle @ 90 degrees, it's an easy thing to forget when you have a big fish on the line.

One thing I would like to add is, when choosing rod action, make sure its consistent with the line and your tackle your using and more importantly the tactics you’re using.

For example, my personal preference is a fairly stiff rod (no jokes please:D ) so most of the rods I own are medium-heavy to heavy action. I usually use a low stretch line, Berkely Fireline, and (in theory at least) I set the hook by raising the rod tip and cranking a few turns, the stiffness of the rod combined with the low stretch line (and of course sharp hooks) set the hook. I never have to make one of those big, slamming hook sets (in fact with this set up, doing so would pull the rig right out of the fishes mouth).

In addition, I try to stick with 20# test line of higher, I want to land the fish quick. I'm not interested in giving the fish a fighting chance. I want to trick him into eating my lure or bait and then get him in ASAP. The less time the fish is on line, the less time for something to go wrong, plus its less stress on the fish which is key for catch and release.

To compensate for less spring in the rod when fighting the fish I started doing something I saw on ESPN a while ago (Mark Sosin’s Saltwater Fishing).
I set my drag relatively light. If the fish runs I lower the rod tip a bit and let him go, to stop the fish I lift to change the angle back to 90 degrees and thumb (conventional) or palm (spinning) the spool. The acute angle, even with a light drag, should be enough to stop the fish.

[kb]

Yes I agree, good explaination.Smoothbore.
Does slow rods come in all actions[light,med,heavy,etc]?
Does fast rods come in all actions[light,med,heavy,etc]?
Is there a general rule of thumb to use?
???????? thanks KB

[bluerunner]

i believe bost fast and smooth rods come in all actions, the general rule is that fiberglass is slowest, glass/graphite composite next, graphite fastest