Drier motor RPM question

[tw]

I've been looking at motors and it appears the RPM is any where between 18 and 100. Is one any better than the other? Is there any advantage in the difference that the rpm used in the thickness of the coating applied to the wrap?

Thanks in advance, Tim

[rattler]

100 rpm drying motor?...seem high to me...i am new to this and use a 14rpm dryer...but its the only one i have so it also wraps...hope this helps...

[Bassplug]

I would think about 3 or 4 rpm would be plenty. You don't want it tobe to fast just fast to keep runs down and have a good finish.

Bill

[Paully]

I use a 4 and a 6 RPM for drying. (I still wrap be hand)
This question was brought up not long ago on a rod building forum (Rodbuilding.org). If you go through the past threads you can find it, along with tons of other help. Long story short......I believe the slower RPM dryers got the better of the votes. Yes, some do use higher speeds, but from what I understand the slower speed produces a finer finish.

[barty b]

How about a grill rosisserie motor?

[Paully]

bartyb...
I'm working on a drying box for turning up to for rods at once. I am actually using a motor out of a rotisserie oven. I'm not sure of the RPM...I will say about 12 to 20 RPM. I did use the motor to turn a surf rod (8'6" spinning) and the results were nice. I will continue to use the 4RPM dryer for fly rods. I use Perma-Gloss on them and it finishes real nicely at that slow speed. You know the old saying.."if it ain't broke..don't fix it".:p

[Samurai]

I have four different ones ranging from 4-9 rpms.To me the slower the better the finish.The only problem with the slower ones is the finish start to get a little thick before I'm done finishing the whole rod.When this happens I just mix another batch and continue.The 4 rpm allows me to really get the finish smooth.

[NTKG]

where can i pick one of these up?

[Paully]

NTKG....
Mudhole, Fishstick4U, cabelas, ebay....

Samurai...
I tried adding a "LITTLE" bit of denatured alcohol to the mix when started to get "thick"....It seemed to work well. I just finish a plug rod for my wife...I'll try to post some pics and show the "alcohol thinned" finish.
Like anything else try new "tricks" on scrap blanks first.

[Samurai]

Paully, yeah I've heard of using the DA to thin before but am a little hesitant. When I say thick it is still usable but I like my finish really thin when applying to get full penetration of the threads and no bubbles next to the guide foot.I do this only on my first coat.The next coat goes really quick.---I've been thinking about using DA or rubbing alchohol to wipe the finish in between coats.Sometimes due to work or fishing,I'm not able to recoat for a few days and would like to clean the surface before recoating.Have you tried this?

NTKG,you can get some really cheap ones on eBay if you're into the DIY thing.I've seen motors go for like $2.If you need ideas on how to build one,look at the photo gallery on the Mudhole site under the equiptment section.

[Paully]

Samurai...yes I wipe the wraps between coats. For the same reasons you said, sometimes a day or so between work sessions. As to mixing DA with your finish....for the most part it's not needed, I do it with high-build (Flexcoat) on smaller diameter rods. It keeps the finish a bit more "runny" a little longer and easier to manage. I find it to be a cleaner/more clear a finish.
I started mixing finish in a mixing cup with a ballberring with a slow RPM motor...just about bubble free. I also found by adding DA it helps the mix thin down and easier to mix, helping with bubble problem.

[Samurai]

Mahalo!

[Bayou Bob]

For wiping down between coats if it has been a couple of days try 90% Isopropal alcohol. It won't disolve epoxy buy it will clean finger prints and that little bit of contamination that settles from the air. Wal-Mart carries it. DIY dryers are by far the cheapest but for a reasonable price from one of the good suppiers like Fishsticks or C and M you can get a variable speed with a foot control which is really handy. Rotissary motors don't have enough wattage to work with a foot control.