# 1990 4Runner Clutch Bleed



## Carolina Rebel (Aug 25, 2005)

My 4Runner is being hateful, clutch pedal keeps losing pressure every couple months. Vehicle has a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch is pretty new (less than 30,000mi. on it), clutch pedal bracket is recently welded and not flexing. Had it in the shop twice for this recurring issue, each time they tell me it needs a good bleeding. I get it, drive it a month or two, and it's the same thing all over again. I've bled it for hours with no luck, they're probably gravity bleeding it but that's not fixing it either. Beautiful thing is that fluid level is static, so doesn't appear to be a leak. Anyone found a good, solid way to bleed the clutch line on a 2nd gen 4Runner? I've tried vacuum pump method, buddy at the pedal method, nothing quite cuts it. Kills me, she's a good truck even at 240k miles, but this issue has me ready to sell her (especially right now, she's cost me a vacation day of hunting tomorrow). Any suggestions are welcome.


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## Loki (Sep 26, 2010)

i have had many toyotas in the 89 - to - 91 year range. is the cluch pedal mushy or just staying on the floor?
i ask because i fought a cluch problem for over a year and found the problem to be the "upper" pedal bracket mounting stud had broken its welds. a relativly simple fix once found. i have a couple in your year range so i may be able to help.


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## RW_20 (Oct 16, 2007)

If you had air getting into the system this easily and often there would be other tale-tale signs. Loki make a good point, look for something broken or bent. Do you notice any air bubbles when bleeding it? When the problem persist, can you pump the pedal and get pedal? With hydrolic systems pedal problems can be caused by resurfacing the flywheel, and or remanufactured pressure plates. If the problem only surfaced after a clutch replacement, and you used remanufactured components, either replace with new parts, or find a flywheel shim set to put between the flywheel and crank.


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## Ryan Y (Dec 1, 2005)

To continue on with Racewire. If your pedal gets mushy, and pumping it builds pressure, you still have a leak somewhere. CHeck the inside and outsides of the firewall where your slave assembly are mounted. if it looks like paint is peeling on either side (Common area for a leak) you can find your leak there. If its on the engine side of the firewall, it could also be coming from the back end of the master cylinder and running to the fire wall.

On another note, you may have someone with a good powerful light follow your system by eye while you pump the clutch to build pressure. Could find the leak that way. I also had a mechanic pressurize the system of my friend's jeep (back before I knew anything about clutches) and he found a steady drip from the master cylinder ater it was fixed once before.


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## RW_20 (Oct 16, 2007)

Ryan makes a good point. In some cases, you may have to pull the carpeting and or the insulation back to find the leak at the master if it fits closely. These systems, carry and move a very small amount of fluid, so a leak should be very evident with a level check.
All the years in the business, the one thing that I refused to install a remanufactured assembly in place of, was clutch assemblies. It was 75% chance it would be coming right back out. A lot of parts stores will now carry new assemblies, such as LUK, which makes clutches for quite a few manufacturers. Not to mention, OEM, (original equipment manufacturer) from the dealership are priced inline with the aftermarket. I always give the dealer a call first.


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