# My Fish Finder Rig



## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

Here is how I tie my Fish Finder rig.

I Snell the hook with a uni-Snell and terminate the line with surgeons loop and a swivel,,,total length about 3-4 inches.

I connect that to a 50 lb shock leader (length of your choice) and use a Fish Striker removable weight slider on the shock leader.

You can sling this a long, long way, conventional or spinner, but lets not go there again

Here are some pics
http://www.pierandsurf.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=4927

http://pierandsurf.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/4927

http://pierandsurf.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/4926


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## RuddeDogg (Mar 20, 2004)

That's cool lookin.


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

RuddeDogg said:


> That's cool lookin.


TY Rudde;

Your opinion always means a lot to me


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## RuddeDogg (Mar 20, 2004)

How's iy hold up?


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## Cdog (Mar 18, 2002)

I hope you do not take this as an attack or being a nimrod but everything looks great except the plastic slider. They will weaken and break off. Just use a coast lock or even just a barrel snap swivel. JMO


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

Cdog said:


> I hope you do not take this as an attack or being a nimrod but everything looks great except the plastic slider. They will weaken and break off. Just use a coast lock or even just a barrel snap swivel. JMO


Matter of fact, I showed the plastic piece rather than what you suggest( which is what I use) so as not to confuse folks.

My true preference is a double eye swivel on the line with a crosslock tied to the bottom eye with 50lb mono (min) to a coast lock.

Coast locks are the bomb man...use nothing else


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## Entropy (Mar 9, 2008)

i posted this comment on one of your pictures before i found this thread, figured id just ask it here for a better dissusion.


> here is an idea. instead of tying both the shock and the snelled leaders to the swivel, why not tie them open ended? i think doing so would make swaping out terminal tackle simple with no retying. i forget the name of the knot. but by taking the looped end through the eye of the swivel, passing the entire swivel through the loop, and pulling it tight, you now have a removable rig right? obviously the snelled end would have to be attached before the shock leader.
> 
> thoughts?


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## fish-on (May 12, 2002)

it seems you would not want the looped connections to the swivel (from the hook leader and the shock line)....hook moving around can possibly get caught up in it...just a thought.


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

fish-on said:


> it seems you would not want the looped connections to the swivel (from the hook leader and the shock line)....hook moving around can possibly get caught up in it...just a thought.


I feel that the swivel could be anywhere along the line as long as at least one in line between the reel and the bait.

Where you put it is up to you and probably worth a whole new thread.

Kick it off guys,,,,where should the swivel be???opcorn:

I am game for where ever is best> opcorn:


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## Entropy (Mar 9, 2008)

well obviously your going to want the swivel between your shock and snell leaders. i think what he was getting at was that with the open loops your just creating a larger margin for error. say the hook could tumble around in the surf and eventually get tangled on itself.

i remember when i was young the easy way we did things was a carolina rig. egg sinker with proper weight, and a swivel... essentially the most basic "fish finder" rig. we always used the presnelled eagle claws with the loop at the end like you have here. slide the loop through the untied end of the swivel, hook through the loop, and pull tight. this eliminated the big loop, and essentially doubled your breaking strength at the swivel. i like the idea of a surgeons loop at the end of the snelled leader, but personally id use a different knot for attaching the shock to the swivel.

question... you tied the snell first right? was the surgeons loop a pain in the arse to tie with that short of a leader? and what test is your snelled leader? ive tried tying my 80lb snells that short to a swivel and find it difficult to keep them as short as id like.


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## 9 rock (Nov 30, 2008)

I have done away with the slider I now use a larger bead and let the weigth on the swivel slide down on the bead works good for me.


9rock


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

Entropy said:


> well obviously your going to want the swivel between your shock and snell leaders. i think what he was getting at was that with the open loops your just creating a larger margin for error. say the hook could tumble around in the surf and eventually get tangled on itself.
> 
> i remember when i was young the easy way we did things was a carolina rig. egg sinker with proper weight, and a swivel... essentially the most basic "fish finder" rig. we always used the presnelled eagle claws with the loop at the end like you have here. slide the loop through the untied end of the swivel, hook through the loop, and pull tight. this eliminated the big loop, and essentially doubled your breaking strength at the swivel. i like the idea of a surgeons loop at the end of the snelled leader, but personally id use a different knot for attaching the shock to the swivel.
> 
> question... you tied the snell first right? was the surgeons loop a pain in the arse to tie with that short of a leader? and what test is your snelled leader? ive tried tying my 80lb snells that short to a swivel and find it difficult to keep them as short as id like.


The snelled hook line is 100 lb Berkely Big Game mono, the shock leader is 50lb Hi Seas Quatro Plus Camo Mono.

I snell the hook first then tie in the Surgeons. The trick to getting it short is to actually start with long line, then double the tag line end coming out of the snell in the middle. Tie the Surgeons down close and then move the knot down as close as you can get it.


The trick though is don't be stingy with line, the longer you start with the easier it is to tie. Remember your only paying pennies per yard for this stuff, so ending up with a bunch on the floor is no big deal


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## TreednNC (Jul 1, 2005)

.


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

9 rock said:


> I have done away with the slider I now use a larger bead and let the weigth on the swivel slide down on the bead works good for me.
> 
> 
> 9rock


Like this?

http://pierandsurf.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=4928&cat=500


Works good too, the big diffence is that the slide in the other pictures is actually removable from the shock leader so you don't have to tie it in when your make the rig,


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## 9 rock (Nov 30, 2008)

Fireline20 said:


> Like this?
> 
> http://pierandsurf.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=4928&cat=500
> 
> ...


yes except I dont have the loops . is that better



9rock


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

9 rock said:


> yes except I dont have the loops . is that better
> 
> 
> 
> 9rock


Those are surgeon loops that connects the two different tests of line in the rig. The line with the weight on it is actually not your running line but the shock leader, which is 50lb and is actually about 15 feet long and is tied on the other end to your running line which should be 15-20 lbs and no more. 

The shock leader serves several purposes. It absorbs the shock of throwing 6-10 0z, it gives you something to grab with your bear hands with out the line cutting you and it gives you more strength when your pulling a big fish out of the water.


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## AtlantaKing (Jul 7, 2002)

Entropy said:


> ...question... you tied the snell first right? was the surgeons loop a pain in the arse to tie with that short of a leader? and what test is your snelled leader? ive tried tying my 80lb snells that short to a swivel and find it difficult to keep them as short as id like.


Check out this thread on reverse snelling a short hook leader


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## seajay (Dec 18, 2005)

Just my 2 cents for what its worth. The tag end of the Snell should run Parallel the the Shank so that the hook is in line,not turning back. Also you can make up the Snoods by tying an Offshore Swivel knot at the Swivel. Then connect to your Shock to swivel with a Palomar. Makes for a more streamline rig.
As far as the sinker slides I have used them for years with no failures.


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

seajay said:


> Just my 2 cents for what its worth. The tag end of the Snell should run Parallel the the Shank so that the hook is in line,not turning back. Also you can make up the Snoods by tying an Offshore Swivel knot at the Swivel. Then connect to your Shock to swivel with a Palomar. Makes for a more streamline rig.
> As far as the sinker slides I have used them for years with no failures.


That brings up a good question,,,should the Tag end exit out of the eye on the side of the point or should it come out opposite the point. 

Which brings up another point is the answer the same for all hooks or just circles?

I will sit back watch this cause I really don't know the definitive answeropcorn:opcorn:opcorn:


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## Drumboy (Jan 25, 2008)

I have a question about the hooks as well. I use the Owner SSW 8/0- 10/0 and they have the offset eyelet where you tie onto to it. Not sure what it's called. But i noticed on the Mustad circles that they don't have it and then the hooks dangles very oddly. and then how the Owners dangle perfectly straight. What's everybody's preference on this?


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## dawgfsh (Mar 1, 2005)

On circles, if your snelling, it should come out on the point side.


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## Charkbait (Oct 15, 2007)

I like trying new rigs too, however I always come back to the same thing, simple IS best. Large loops like that are asking for trouble IMO. I always either tie direct or go to a very small loop crimp, still works the best.


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## Cdog (Mar 18, 2002)

Fireline20 said:


> I feel that the swivel could be anywhere along the line as long as at least one in line between the reel and the bait.
> 
> Where you put it is up to you and probably worth a whole new thread.
> 
> ...


Well since you asked, I tie mine similar except for the loops.

Like yours 17 or 20# to 50#.50# goes to 150# barrell swivel tied with nail knot, other end nail knot to 1-3" 130# nail snelled to 10/0 hook.

Only real difference is I don't like the loop knots. Asking to get grass, weed, trash caught in it and drag your rig down the beach.


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

Cdog said:


> Well since you asked, I tie mine similar except for the loops.
> 
> Like yours 17 or 20# to 50#.50# goes to 150# barrell swivel tied with nail knot, other end nail knot to 1-3" 130# nail snelled to 10/0 hook.
> 
> Only real difference is I don't like the loop knots. Asking to get grass, weed, trash caught in it and drag your rig down the beach.


No grass where I fish, just sand

Can't understand all this concern over loops. Fishing in a lake yes, ocean no...just that the surgeons loop is so easy to tie and retains almost 100 % of line strength, plus I believe it gives the bait a little play to bounce around a bit on the bottom. Could make it smaller I guess, maybe I will. But in my mind unless your fishing from a boat over a reef or a wreck, loops should not be a problem. 

But I don't own a boat,,just a kayak. And when yaking, I am fishing for trout or whiting or puppy drum in the salt marshes and I am going to use smaller hooks, not circles and I am not going to use a shock leader, fish finder or heavy weights. 

So I guess again, it all depends on your preference and where you fish.


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## Dr. Bubba (Nov 9, 1999)

where do you fish in the ocean that you don't get grass or seaweed?

I too believe the loops are asking for trouble in many cases. Why don't you just tie both shock leader and hook leader directly to your barrel swivel?


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## TreednNC (Jul 1, 2005)

Anywhere on the NC coast, a hard wind, especially with any resemblence of east, for a prolonged period of time, will break up the sargasso (spell check) matts and send them on in to the shore. 

God forbid that animal grass/sour krout

And on the FF rig subject, I tie mine with no loops, crimps, etc....

start off with 10" of 100lb just for ease of working, 

*nail not to swivel
*run line from that through eye of hook
*pull hook tight against nail knot on swivel
*snell hook via nail knot as tight as possible, leaving little line to tighten and lengthen rig
*tighten snail
*distance between swivel and hook eye is generally less than 1/2-5/8" depending on line stretch and how hard you tighten, and I pull the p!$$ outa mine with a nail through the swivel eye and hook around a screw driver handle


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

Loops, Loops, Loops

We are talking about a HOOK with a WIDE mouth opening. 

Which do you think is going to get snagged first and the worse, the hook or the loop??

Every time I ever get snagged in grass or line, the hook is the guilty party not the loop.


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## Clyde (Oct 18, 2003)

Fireline - 

If you spent half as much time listening to people with experience as you do trying to defend yourself, I think you'd learn quite a bit more.

But that's just my opinion, and I don't mean this in any ill manner at all.


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## Entropy (Mar 9, 2008)

AtlantaKing said:


> Check out this thread on reverse snelling a short hook leader


STOP IT!

every time the topic of hand tieing a short snelled leader comes up you send me that link. this is the third or fourth time now. haha. my mammoth fingers dont tie that tight without a that tool! might just have to break down and get one soon... *sigh*


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## OBX_Nomad (Mar 8, 2005)

Not trying to beat a dead horse but I just can't understand the use of the loops. Why aren't you just attaching the leader from the hook and the shock to the barrel swivel with the standard clinch knot? 

AND if you insist on wasting your time with loops try a perfection loop instead. It will elliminate that angle you get after tying a surgeon's loop.


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## OBX_Nomad (Mar 8, 2005)

Plus, all the unneeded loops are just more things to fowl.


See. . . no loops, nice and neat.

http://www.hatterasoutfitters.com/fulldrumrig.htm


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## Entropy (Mar 9, 2008)

OBX_Nomad said:


> Plus, all the unneeded loops are just more things to fowl.
> 
> 
> See. . . no loops, nice and neat.
> ...


tried and proven...


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## AtlantaKing (Jul 7, 2002)

Surgeon's loops are not 100% knots. Few knots are and the nail, uni, SD Jam, Erwin and Trilene are certainly stronger to tie line to terminal tackle. 



Entropy said:


> STOP IT!
> every time the topic of hand tieing a short snelled leader comes up you send me that link. this is the third or fourth time now. haha. my mammoth fingers dont tie that tight without a that tool! might just have to break down and get one soon... *sigh*


LOL. OK, I'll quit sending that link. I've got another twist that doesn't require the tool...perhaps one of these long winter days I'll put some pics up :redface:


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## seajay (Dec 18, 2005)

Drumboy said:


> I have a question about the hooks as well. I use the Owner SSW 8/0- 10/0 and they have the offset eyelet where you tie onto to it. Not sure what it's called. But i noticed on the Mustad circles that they don't have it and then the hooks dangles very oddly. and then how the Owners dangle perfectly straight. What's everybody's preference on this?


With the Owner SSW or any other hook with the offset eye opposite the Gap you can run the tag straight thru. But with a Owner Mutu style just lay the tag parallel to the eye. In other words do not bring it thru the eye of the hook.
The SSW hook is an all purpose bait hook. The Mutu is a Circle hook.
To my knowledge Gamakatsu is the only one with a eye up type Circle hook.


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## Fireline20 (Oct 2, 2007)

AtlantaKing said:


> Surgeon's loops are not 100% knots. Few knots are and the nail, uni, SD Jam, Erwin and Trilene are certainly stronger to tie line to terminal tackle.
> 
> 
> LOL. OK, I'll quit sending that link. I've got another twist that doesn't require the tool...perhaps one of these long winter days I'll put some pics up :redface:


Check your knot strength comparison here.

http://www.steelheader.net/knots/knots.htm


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## Entropy (Mar 9, 2008)

AtlantaKing said:


> LOL. OK, I'll quit sending that link. I've got another twist that doesn't require the tool...perhaps one of these long winter days I'll put some pics up :redface:


send me THAT link when you get it up. =]


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## BubbaHoTep (May 26, 2008)

Cdog said:


> I hope you do not take this as an attack or being a nimrod but everything looks great except the plastic slider. They will weaken and break off. Just use a coast lock or even just a barrel snap swivel. JMO


Hey Clay, I've heard this before, too. I've not had a problem with the plastic sliders, but then again on a fish finder rig, I rarely go over a 2oz weight on there. I saw the other day somewhere that Eagle Claw has a black one, and I'm wondering if that one is plastic, or if it might be metal and if it is metal would it hold up better than the plastic if you use a heavier weight??? I also dragged out an old copy of Vic Dunaway's _Bait, Rigs, and Tackle _to see what he said, and his illustration/explanation of the fish finder used a large plastic bead between the weight and the barrell swivel. I'd think if it was heavy enough, it would bust that plastic bead as well. 9rock it sounds like the way you do it is similar to what that book says. Have you had a problem with it busting the bead??


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## Newsjeff (Jul 22, 2004)

I guess we all have our own way of tying a fishfinder rig. 

Mine has evolved over the years, espically with knots, hooks and terminal tackle.

When using a straight-eyed hook, I don't go through the eye. But I do with a bent-eyed hook.

I don't use a bead below the slider. I've found a bead damages the knot more than the weight, believe it or not. 

I tie my terminal tackle with nail knots. I snell my hook with a nail snell.

I use between a 3" and 1/2" bite leader, depending on what I'm fishin' for. I like a little longer bite leader for stripers over drum and cobia.

I use a Mcmahon snap for my slider. It's the best I've found.

On my shock leader knot, I use a bimini or spider with a no-name. It's the best I've found. A uni-nail will work with the loop knot very well, too. 

I use a 40lb shock leader, but 50lb is fine. I like at least an 80lb bite leader, but prefer 130lb.

Plastic sliders will break, and they have a good chance of hurting someone when they do.


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## seajay (Dec 18, 2005)

Newsjeff are you using Braid? If not I have been using the Sliders for several years and have had not the first failure. I know they make one for braid. But I do not use Braid. Curious as to why you are having failures. Maybe using more than 4oz. Maybe the heavier lead is an issue.


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## Newsjeff (Jul 22, 2004)

The plastic sliders I've broken have all been with 6oz to 8oz on a fairly hard cast. 

It's the force of the cast with that weight is what breaks them, not the type of line. I feel Cdog is right, they do tend get weaker after a few casts, too. 

Having said that, the ones I've broken have all been with mono. 

I've not broken those thicker, blue plastic sliders. However, I know a guy who swears he's lost a big fish on one when the jagged plastic on the inside cut his line (right, Stan?).


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## AbuMike (Sep 3, 2007)

seajay said:


> Newsjeff are you using Braid? If not I have been using the Sliders for several years and have had not the first failure. I know they make one for braid. But I do not use Braid. Curious as to why you are having failures. Maybe using more than 4oz. Maybe the heavier lead is an issue.


Uh yeah the 7-10oz we throw may have a little to do with it.
The slide itself I never had fail, it was the little plastic loop that holds the snap.


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## Drumboy (Jan 25, 2008)

Thnx Seajay


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## dawgfsh (Mar 1, 2005)

The other reason for using a swivel and snap instead of a plastic slider is that when your sinker rolls ( and at hatteras 8's and 12's roll just fine) it won't twist up your rig.


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## RW_20 (Oct 16, 2007)

AtlantaKing said:


> Check out this thread on reverse snelling a short hook leader


I started doing the reverse when I started having problems with getting twist and distortion in the line on heavier lines 80# plus. It really does a nicer job, and you don't need the tool. Just use a nail or a small phillips screw driver shaft. it's not that hard.I like the finished product better than the standard snell. I do premake all my rigs at home using a bench vise, which really helps and I pull the snot out of em when I'm done. On my rigs I snell the hooks and I use a Palomar on a 150# swivel. 


Fireline20 said:


> Loops, Loops, Loops
> 
> We are talking about a HOOK with a WIDE mouth opening.
> 
> ...


Fireline, I think what everyone is trying to say is, with the large loops it allows the rig to articulate too much, which will allow the hook end to reach back to your leader or tackle in the back and forth motion of the current.


BubbaHoTep said:


> Hey Clay, I've heard this before, too. I've not had a problem with the plastic sliders, but then again on a fish finder rig, I rarely go over a 2oz weight on there. I saw the other day somewhere that Eagle Claw has a black one, and I'm wondering if that one is plastic, or if it might be metal and if it is metal would it hold up better than the plastic if you use a heavier weight??? I also dragged out an old copy of Vic Dunaway's _Bait, Rigs, and Tackle _to see what he said, and his illustration/explanation of the fish finder used a large plastic bead between the weight and the barrell swivel. I'd think if it was heavy enough, it would bust that plastic bead as well. 9rock it sounds like the way you do it is similar to what that book says. Have you had a problem with it busting the bead??


I have had the plastic slides sawed through with bigger running fish, but only with braid. I can't recall loosing a loop end but I've also just started using the harder cast in the past year with 6oz and up and I can see this being a very possible problem. Do many of you use the metal sliders? I've seen these recently and was thinking of switching over.


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## TreednNC (Jul 1, 2005)

Fireline, if you want distance, and effectiveness....listen to Drumdum, Clyde Atlanta King, Cdog, Newsjeff, Nserch4drum, NTKG, and as well as Dr Bubba, a number of others that have or have not chimed in here. These guys KNOW what theyre talking about.

And as far as checking knot strength, these guys tie and test on their own....you cant beat the 20+yrs people like Drumdum have and what they pass on. I think Kenny told me he had 400 big drum to his name as of a couple years ago. Whats that tell ya?


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## Cdog (Mar 18, 2002)

BubbaHoTep said:


> Hey Clay, I've heard this before, too. I've not had a problem with the plastic sliders, but then again on a fish finder rig, I rarely go over a 2oz weight on there. I saw the other day somewhere that Eagle Claw has a black one, and I'm wondering if that one is plastic, or if it might be metal and if it is metal would it hold up better than the plastic if you use a heavier weight??? I also dragged out an old copy of Vic Dunaway's _Bait, Rigs, and Tackle _to see what he said, and his illustration/explanation of the fish finder used a large plastic bead between the weight and the barrell swivel. I'd think if it was heavy enough, it would bust that plastic bead as well. 9rock it sounds like the way you do it is similar to what that book says. Have you had a problem with it busting the bead??


Admittidly my opinion on the plastic sliders is based on what others have told me of their experiences. I have never used them. Also the weight was much greater(8-10oz) being used. I used to just use a snap swivel but for the last year have been using the Spro swivels for the weight.


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## TreednNC (Jul 1, 2005)

Ive broke a plastic slider, just to see how easy it was. I was throwing 8oz on an OM. I cant imagine what it would do on my fusion magnum


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## Dr. Bubba (Nov 9, 1999)

Newsjeff said:


> I've not broken those thicker, blue plastic sliders. However, I know a guy who swears he's lost a big fish on one when the jagged plastic on the inside cut his line (right, Stan?).


I've used those before. Showed up on the beach one day and saw Stan and he was talkin how he hated em and lost a fish over them. He was saying the same thing. I didn't pay much attention at the time, but using them around shelly sand is bad. The shell particles get inside the slide and nick up your shock leader.


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## eric (Oct 24, 2007)

man.. you guys breaking those yellow and blue slideys..
just lay off the power.. jeez. i use them via casting fishing pendulums and they dont break.
yet you can break them with thump casts... do i lack the brute strength or what?! =D


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## Cdog (Mar 18, 2002)

ooeric said:


> man.. you guys breaking those yellow and blue slideys..
> just lay off the power.. jeez. i use them via casting fishing pendulums and they dont break.
> yet you can break them with thump casts... do i lack the brute strength or what?! =D


You using 8oz on them pendulums?


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## eric (Oct 24, 2007)

ya i can sling a 8oz pendulum. not as hard as it seems.


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## SmoothLures (Feb 13, 2008)

Newsjeff said:


> When using a straight-eyed hook, I don't go through the eye. But I do with a bent-eyed hook.


Not to hijack, but do you mean you snell circles and don't go through the eye with any line?


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## chadwickfeesh (Nov 13, 2008)

those plastic sinker slides are fine for use out of a boat, but darn right dangerous to use for surf fishing. they break fairly easy for me -- one day at the point i ran out of coastlocks and borrowed one of the plastic ones from a fishing buddie and broke the thing on the second or third cast, thus sending the 8 oz. pyramid sailing off to right and too close to fellow anglers.
IMO...using plastic sinker slides for heaver work is as dangerous as casting standing behind someone.


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## Oldmulletbreath (Jan 7, 2006)

1. Chadwick you drove tha nail straight in with one swing ! Them things are junk!

2. Snell your hook, 1 to 3 inches of bite leader,I once used 100# pound leader mono I now use 125 it just holds up better, then use a crimper. If you learn how to use the crimper and use the right size crimps THEY WILL NOT FAIL !!! Check each one if you wanna, pliers and the stud on the gate of your truck will do the trick. The loop knots are more resitance in the air and in the water,more things for trash to hang on, plus more knots to fail. I can put one of these rigs together in less than 30 seconds, Keep it simple it works.


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## Newsjeff (Jul 22, 2004)

SmoothLures said:


> Not to hijack, but do you mean you snell circles and don't go through the eye with any line?


I was talking about all hooks that don't have a bent eye, no matter if it's a circle, J, Kahle, ect. 

This is something I picked up from one of the Hatteras guys (Drumdum or Plug maybe?). The action of the stright-eyed hook seems to work better without going through the eye. 

I think there was a thread on here, the old Mo wire or somewhere? I'll see if I can find it when I get the chance.


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## SmoothLures (Feb 13, 2008)

Might have to try that. Never thought about it being able to hold without going through the eye.


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## Newsjeff (Jul 22, 2004)

SmoothLures said:


> Might have to try that. Never thought about it being able to hold without going through the eye.


I just spent some time looking for a thread on this issue. 

After doing some reading, it appears that the whole through the eye or around the eye doesn't make much diffrence on a straight eyed hook.

I found a good thread on SOL about this matter. Some of the guys who I consider experts go through the eye on stright-eyed hooks. 

It appears it doesn't really matter much except on a very technical level. 

Speaking from experience? Well, I've landed some big fish on a Mustad Demon Circle going around the eye. I've also had my bait dropped while using them tied the same way. Is this because of the way the line is attached to the hook? I don't know for sure. I only use those hooks for stripers, and lots of times it's the doggies moving my bait around. 

As Nano says in the post below, the offshore guys snell around the eye on a straight-eyed CIRCLES to get better action. Many have moved to ringed circles for even better action. 

I know two things. You can catch fish with those hooks snelled either way. The line does tend to get bent a little more when snelling through the eye, so you have to be a little more careful. That's another reason I don't go throught the eye on those hooks. 

But does it really matter how you snell your straight eyed hooks? I don't know for sure ... and I don't think it really matters.

More of a personal prefernce, I guess you'd say. 

http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/showthread.php?t=416049&page=3


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