# Thule universal flat top rack for fishing rods



## HuskyMD (May 19, 2000)

I recently realized that when I do head to the ocean to fish (only once or twice a year) I will pretty much always be leaving the civic at home and taking the minivan as I can't put my fish cart in the civic. so, with that realization I decided I need a good way to carry the rods in the van. I thought about building one of the ones you hang from the hooks (with wood and the twist n lock rod storage thingees) but realized that that would end up costing around $50 and maybe I could get a rooftop system for not that much more. I see that Thule has new racks (91724) with a speedlink mounting system and that they run around $200. I found the old system without the speedlink mounting system for $100 on Sierra Trading Post so I bought that. 

For those who use something like this, is there any concern with a longer pole, say like a 9' pole? Not sure how much the tip whips around from the wind.


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## lil red jeep (Aug 17, 2007)

I have Thule ski holders on top of my Jeep Grand Cherokee. This set wasn't made for the Jeep so a little modifying got it mounted just fine. My ski holders have never held ski's since I've owned them and hold 4 heavers very nicely. I have seen more than once someone heading south across the Bonner Bridge with rods held vertically on the front bumper rack smack a big old nasty sea gull on the bridge and bust a custom rod into pieces. I imagine a gull can hit rods held horizontally too but its a smaller target. I looked at the rack you have in your post and it is very similar to the ones I have. I don't think you will regret getting them. They are a good choice.


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## FishNC13 (Nov 21, 2010)

Id like to get something like this but I have a f150 screw that has no luggage bars. Anyone have experience with the universal type roof bars for a pickup? I think they strap under the windows or between the door and the frame. Im getting tired of rods getting beat up in the bed.


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## redhorse9902 (Jan 5, 2008)

I bought one made by Caprack. Got for less than $250 shipped from rack wharehouse. Check them out. Well pleased with mine.


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## CJS (Oct 2, 2006)

I have Thule bars with the fit kit on a F150 supercrew and they work great. Feel pretty sturdy even with the kauak up there.

I use a 6 ski rack and it holds 4 heavers, a metal rod and a trout rod with no n problems.


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## SpeedRacer (Sep 5, 2010)

HuskyMD said:


> I recently realized that when I do head to the ocean to fish (only once or twice a year) I will pretty much always be leaving the civic at home and taking the minivan as I can't put my fish cart in the civic. so, with that realization I decided I need a good way to carry the rods in the van. I thought about building one of the ones you hang from the hooks (with wood and the twist n lock rod storage thingees) but realized that that would end up costing around $50 and maybe I could get a rooftop system for not that much more. I see that Thule has new racks (91724) with a speedlink mounting system and that they run around $200. I found the old system without the speedlink mounting system for $100 on Sierra Trading Post so I bought that.
> 
> For those who use something like this, is there any concern with a longer pole, say like a 9' pole? Not sure how much the tip whips around from the wind.



Husky,

I have so for had no issues carrying my 12 and 13 ft'ers to AI and back on the Yakima FatBack 6 (knock on wood). I know you were specifically asking about the Thule but I think the concept is the same so I figured I'd chime in. So far no issues with the wind at 65 to 70mph. I do check them when I make stops and I do keep an eye on it while on the road. I have a sun roof and can see if they bunch up or not. So far I haven't had any issues. Check out my profile and you can see what it looks like with the rods. I've included a link to one of the pictures. 

The only thing you may consider is weather to keep your reel on the rod or remove them. Depending on the reel and how high the ski/rod rack sits above the roof, you may damage the roof and or reel if you hit a big bump or a dip. The rod will for the most part stay straight but if the reel or handle sits on the roof it may swing up and come back down. I have a roof basket that I mount the FatBack too and my reels do not touch the basket or roof.

Hope this helps.

http://www.pierandsurf.com/fishing-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5300&d=1301712751


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## FishNC13 (Nov 21, 2010)

Thule must be VERY proud of there products. Footpack - $364, Lock - $60, Ski Rack - $169. Total = $593. Looks like there riding in the truck bed. Iv never understood the price of thule items. In the end there just some bars on the roof.


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## FishNC13 (Nov 21, 2010)

Anyone out there ever try something like this http://www.discountramps.com/roof-r...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CLGVhurPlbcCFchM4AodDUwAfw


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## jmadre (Jan 3, 2008)

SpeedRacer said:


> The only thing you may consider is weather to keep your reel on the rod or remove them. Depending on the reel and how high the ski/rod rack sits above the roof, you may damage the roof and or reel if you hit a big bump or a dip. The rod will for the most part stay straight but if the reel or handle sits on the roof it may swing up and come back down. I have a roof basket that I mount the FatBack too and my reels do not touch the basket or roof.


When I used a setup like this, I cut two opposite sides out of a plastic storage tub and pop-riveted aluminum tubes on the other two sides. The tubing bridges the gap between the ski holders and the tub supports the reels and prevents roof/reel damage. Drill holes in the bottom for drains.


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## Sandcrab (Mar 20, 2002)

I would put the rods on the roof rack with the rod butts facing the front bumper... I tried carrying oars in my boat with the blade section facing front the wind swept them out of the boat! I had to put them in the boat with the handle end facing front and the blade section facing my rear bumper...

Sandcrab


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## SpeedRacer (Sep 5, 2010)

jmadre said:


> When I used a setup like this, I cut two opposite sides out of a plastic storage tub and pop-riveted aluminum tubes on the other two sides. The tubing bridges the gap between the ski holders and the tub supports the reels and prevents roof/reel damage. Drill holes in the bottom for drains.


That's creative. 

Before I got the ski rack, I modified a Taco roof rod rack with a pressure treated wood. I mounted that on the cross bar of my roof rack with a bunch of zip ties. I could have mounted them directly to the cross bar but that would have required me drilling holes in them and I didn't want to do that. It was nice because it would hold the reels facing up.

I remember getting it on sale at Cabelas. I think I got it all for under 100 bucks. I don't think Cabelas sells them anymore but you can get them elsewere. Here's the link from the manufacturer. 

http://tacomarine.com/item--Roof-Rack--P03-240+Series.html

Might be able to find them cheaper on other sites. 

I got my current setup for a lot less than list. A guy on eBay was selling them. When I inquired about the basket and the ski rack to see if he could cut me a better deal, he asked me to call him direct and to take it offline. I went direct through his store and saved on the ebay service fee. Thought it was a bit shady at first but it worked out. 

FishNC13 is right. Thule and Yakima are expensive. I would have bought a generic brand if I didn't the my current setup for way under list. I do hear that the generic ones do tend to wear out or rust sooner than the Thule or Yakima.


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## HuskyMD (May 19, 2000)

SpeedRacer said:


> Husky,
> 
> I have so for had no issues carrying my 12 and 13 ft'ers to AI and back on the Yakima FatBack 6 (knock on wood). I know you were specifically asking about the Thule but I think the concept is the same so I figured I'd chime in. So far no issues with the wind at 65 to 70mph. I do check them when I make stops and I do keep an eye on it while on the road. I have a sun roof and can see if they bunch up or not. So far I haven't had any issues. Check out my profile and you can see what it looks like with the rods. I've included a link to one of the pictures.
> 
> ...


thanks, very helpful.


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## HuskyMD (May 19, 2000)

Sandcrab said:


> I would put the rods on the roof rack with the rod butts facing the front bumper... I tried carrying oars in my boat with the blade section facing front the wind swept them out of the boat! I had to put them in the boat with the handle end facing front and the blade section facing my rear bumper...
> 
> Sandcrab


I've also seen mattresses on top of a van where the wind was blowing the mattress into a taco. That's why I was asking. So, for those of you with racks, do the tips point out to the front bumper like speedracer does or to the back bumper like Sandcrab recommends.


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## Orest (Jul 28, 2003)

I don't use these racks.

But if I was to; I would point the butt of the rod forward, more thickness forward just in case a bird or any other object would hit the rods.

Also make sure the rods are forward enough for the rear hatch can open and not break the rod tips.


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## lil red jeep (Aug 17, 2007)

I have only used mine pointing forward thus far, but it makes sense that butt forward would be far safer.


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## jmadre (Jan 3, 2008)

HuskyMD said:


> So, for those of you with racks, do the tips point out to the front bumper like speedracer does or to the back bumper like Sandcrab recommends.


I used them on a Tahoe so the racks were mounted to the roof rack and the rods went tip-forward. The thickest, strongest portion of the rods bridged the gap between the ski racks.

If I put the tips pointing towards the rear they would extend several feet behind the vehicle instead of over the hood. This would be impossible while pulling a camper and seems like a good way to break all the tips off by backing into something.

I understand the 'butt forward for protection' thing, but it doesn't seem practical for long rods unless you're driving a van or something where the racks are mounted towards the front of the vehicle.


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## Loki (Sep 26, 2010)

FishNC13 said:


> Anyone out there ever try something like this http://www.discountramps.com/roof-r...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CLGVhurPlbcCFchM4AodDUwAfw


They are total crap!!!!!!!
I tried a set, sent took them right back same day.
never tied anything to them, I wouldnt trust them to stay put even out out a load on them.

DONT BUY THEM


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## Hudak (Sep 10, 2007)

I have carried 6' up to 15'+ rods on the yakima ski racks with no issues on a Jeep Cherokee butt forward. I have not done it towing anything, just never had a reason to, yet. I do have the butts on the surf rods as far forward as I could, and still be balanced for ease of loading. The racks are spread as far apart as I can get them as well. On the TTR w/reducer I had, the butt cap was pretty much level with the front of the hood. You do have to be careful about opening hatchbacks. Keep an eye on craigslist for those that are not in a hurry. I got the larger set, almost new (used for one trip) with the mounts and locks for 30.00. I also got the smaller pair with mounts for 25.00 in great condition. They are out there, for the deals, you have to be patient. I too like to ride with them butt first because I have had things hit them and the butt faired MUCH better than any of the tips would have. But I imagine that would vary with personal preference and how much you value your rods.


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## master baiter (Aug 8, 2003)

I used a cheapo set once a year to obx for years on a 1985 caprice classic... held by suction cups and hook tie downs to the roof...toted 10 rods or so on it when we stayed at the castaways
in avon...it was so noisy at highway speeds I put foam on the bars to reduce the noise...


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## SpeedRacer (Sep 5, 2010)

I can understand the reason for mounting the rods butt first but (no pun intended), I figure if something hits the rod at highway speeds, chances are the rods are toast anyways at that speed. I hope I haven't jinxed myself. The rods have yet to bow on me during my trips at highway speeds. So far so good. Knock on wood. I think it's just a preference on what you feel comfortable with.


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## ILV2F5H (Aug 2, 2007)

Hey Trevor,

I dont think a 9 footer will be an issue. A buddy of mine has a simliar setup made by Rhino on his Accord. He has a roof rack and ski rack. He transports mainly inshore 7-8 ft rods. The only negative aspect is to be careful when you open the trunk and your rods are still on the rack. 

Tight lines!

Chhaya


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## BPReeds (Jan 11, 2013)

buy a ski off of e-bay...always plenty for sale...I went the DIY route but the ski rack was a big improvement mounted to roof rack...get one with locks....have not tried the butt forward method...


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## ReelinRod (May 29, 2003)

HuskyMD said:


> I see that Thule has new racks (91724) with a speedlink mounting system and that they run around $200. I found the old system without the speedlink mounting system for $100 on Sierra Trading Post so I bought that.
> 
> For those who use something like this, is there any concern with a longer pole, say like a 9' pole? Not sure how much the tip whips around from the wind.





BPReeds said:


> have not tried the butt forward method...


I have used the same set of 4 Thule ski clamps for over 14 years. The clamps have been absolutely secure for 10's of thousands of miles with rods to 14ft traveling tip forward.

I highly recommend Thule.

1997 F350 with gutter clamp foot packs:










2003 F350 on homemade bed pocket racks:



















They now are on the top of my Yukon on Tracker II quick detach foot packs.


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