# Aluminum Danforth Anchor



## OldBay

A friend of mine gave me a pretty big danforth this weekend. I was supprised that it was made out of aluminum, and is extremely light. Does the lack of weight make it less effective at digging into the bottom. or can I make up for the weight defficiency with more hefty chain? Do any of you use an aluminum anchor? It just struck me a strange.

Thanks.


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## Hat80

*What kind of danforth anchor?*

You have to set every anchor. The weight of the anchor really dosn't have a lot to do with it.....Tightlines 










Clockwise: Delta, West Marine Danforth,
Bullwagga, Digger, and Spade


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## OldBay

What kind of Danforth? - It is just like the danforth in your picture. It might even be from west marine also. I know about setting anchors, but it seems that heavier blades would dig in better initially, making it easier to set. Maybe not.


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## Hat80

*The chain is what pulls the angle*

of the shank to make the blades dig in on any anchor. In most cases I only use the danforth when I'm setting anchors from two or three points on the boat.....Tightlines


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## OldBay

Hat - What type of anchor do you usually use in the bay, and why do you prefer it to the danforth? Plow? Just wondering, thanks for the info!


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## Hat80

*I use the digger most of the time.*

It's alot easier to set and will hold in most conditions. The danforth plow can be hard to set but when it is set, it's set! The trick to it is the chain. Use at least 5' of chain. I myself use 10' but it's a big boat.

I never have to leave the wheel. I'll drop it useing the windless and back down on it. If I need to, I'll use the engines to pull it from side to side to make sure both blades dig in. .....Tightlines


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## catman

The rule of thumb for the chain is half the length of the boat. My boat is 26' with 13' of chain and the actual weight of the anchor is around 9#'s. If I were using the same anchor but made from aluminum-magnesium alloy it would probably only weigh 4#'s. Like Hat said the weight has nothing to do with it's holding power, it's the way the anchor is designed and the amount of chain you are using. I can usually get it bite into a hard oyster shell bottom as long as the current isn't too strong. Anything over 4 knts is a pretty strong current. You also have to take any wind in account especially if it's in the same direction as the wind.

Catman.


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## Hat80

*Catman is right about the rule of thumb.*

If you ask me thoe it's over kill. If you can't set your anchor with 10' of chain, it's time to sell the boat. It will be a cold day in he!! before I pay out 30' of chain. JMO .....Tightlines


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## OldBay

Since aluminum and steel work equally well and the real factor in setting a danforth is the chain, I wonder why All danforths aren't made of aluminum. Why not save a little weight.


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## Hat80

*Marketing my friend.*

You can't make money if you don't sell what a person wants. Some people think a anchor needs to be heavy. No reason not to take thier money too. .....Tightlines


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## catman

There's also a cost consideration. Like a lot of boaters I carry an extra anchor for safety. My galvanized anchor cost $30.00. The same spec. anchor in aluminum cost $90.00. BTW, the aluminum anchor is trade named as a Fortress anchor not Danforth. They look identical for all pactical purposes. Seems that all fluke anchors are refered to as Danforth just like Band-Aids.

Clyde...For chain length I was following what is recommended in Chapman's manual.

Catman.


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## OldBay

I had no idea. I thought the anchor was called Danforth because Mr. Danforth designed it for the navy. I didnt realize that it only reffered to the steel model. They didn't go over that in MD boater safety class.

Thanks for setting me straight (or less crooked, at least).


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## Hat80

*Hey OldBay,*

Now you know why I asked you what kind of danforth. 

*Nick*, The Chapman's manuals are the Holy Grail of seamanship, you can always trust the info you find within it. In very deep water I would apply the chain rule as you would need it. In water under 50' deep, 10' of chain will do the job.....Tightlines


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## OldBay

Hat - 

Arent the two anchors on the left of the pic you posted called Plow anchors?

I think that the design pictured below is the only one that can be called a Danforth, and now I know that it must be made of steel also, to be called a Danforth.










Pic taken from: http://www.danforthanchors.com/


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## Hat80

*Thats right Oldbay,*

The term (Danforth) has become to generalized. Ask a new boater what kind of anchor he has and 9 times out of 10 it will be, errrr....a danforth? They just don't know!....Tightlines


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## OldBay

Hat - Are you implying that I don't know everything about everything everywhere?  

I dont claim to know too much about anything, but I did get a 50/50 on the MD Boater Safety exam a few weeks ago. 

I have about 3.2 million more boating questions, please just cut me off when I have asked my limit.

Thanks!


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## Hat80

*Man, I thought your name*

was Oldbay, not they. LOL .....Tightlines


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## skunked

As everybody has already said it is the chain that matters as WELL as the size of the anchor. You would be surprised how small a properly designed anchor can be. Another rule of thumb (from Chapman's BTW) is 7 feet of anchor line for every vertical foot of water you plan on anhoring in. Ie 70 feet of line for 10 depth. Probably overkill for a few minutes fishing but if you need to hold in current or overnight it won't be overkill.


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## skunked

As everybody has already said it is the chain that matters as WELL as the size of the anchor. You would be surprised how small a properly designed anchor can be. Another rule of thumb (from Chapman's BTW) is 7 feet of anchor line for every vertical foot of water you plan on anhoring in. Ie 70 feet of line for 10 depth. Probably overkill for a few minutes fishing but if you need to hold in current or overnight it won't be overkill.


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