# Kayak roof rack



## Northwoods (Mar 4, 2011)

What's the advantage of a roof rack that holds your kayak at a slant? Why that versus just leaving it flat during transport?


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## notso (Jul 18, 2005)

You can fit more boats on a given width of cross bar. Some might also argue that they're more secure in "cradles" of one form or another, but if tied down properly, cradles are not needed.


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## Northwoods (Mar 4, 2011)

Thanks. I will only be hauling one, so I was just going to go with loading it flat. I didn't know if there was anything with aerodynamics or something.


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## MetroMan (Mar 7, 2009)

With some cam buckle straps, and maybe a bow strap you'll be just fine.


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## solid7 (Dec 31, 2010)

Flat during transport? as in lying directly on the roof of your car/truck, with no sort of roof rack, whatsoever? 

C'mon, really?


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## narfpoit (Jun 16, 2004)

The most secure way I have found is upside down on my rack with no pads or cradles and ratcheting straps (I use Thule cross bars so there is plenty of surface area to take the load). When I have to carry 2, one goes flat and the other goes in the "J" cradles. I get blown around a lot when I have a kayak in the cradle. It is much less aerodynamic so I only use it if I have too.


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## solid7 (Dec 31, 2010)

I'm good with straddling a roof rack. I have a stand-up paddle board also, and rather than stand the 2 up on edge, I lay the kayak in foam cradles (as it would sit in the water) that sit on the cross bars of my roof rack. I use ratchet straps to secure the kayak. Then, I put the paddleboard on top of the kayak, and wrap the ratchet straps around the kayak and paddleboard. By not putting the paddleboard straps back to the rack, I eliminate the "guitar string" effect of a long stretching strap.

As far as cradles go, I don't think it's a matter of need... It's just easier to load the kayak into cradles. I don't say that lightly - I have loaded large and small kayaks, and I say with absolute certainty that the cradle holds a big loading advantage over flat loading. Especially when you are all by yourself...


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## Northwoods (Mar 4, 2011)

solid7 said:


> Flat during transport? as in lying directly on the roof of your car/truck, with no sort of roof rack, whatsoever?
> 
> C'mon, really?


I tried flat with the foam things and didn't really like it. I was just using the truck at first, but I have a older Kia I use for a work car that gets much better gas mileage so I was thinking about upgrading from the foam and getting an aftermarket roof rack. There are no channels or anything to attach the rack to, so I was thinking about a Thule or something similar. I would rather go with something that I could just lay it flat since I only need to put one up there. I was just wondering if there were any advantages to the J ones. From what everybody says, I guess the only advantage is transporting more than one at a time. Thanks for the help everyone!


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## 7.62 (Apr 15, 2011)

And, as Solid7 said, loading advantage with the J hooks is huge.


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## solid7 (Dec 31, 2010)

7.62 said:


> And, as Solid7 said, loading advantage with the J hooks is huge.


Nope, foam cradles is what I said. I hate the J hooks. Anything that involves rotating the boat is bad business. Believe me, I've dropped enough kayaks to know. 

Not to mention trying to steer an SUV in a stiff crosswind with a sideways kayak.... That SUCKS.


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## Carolina Rebel (Aug 25, 2005)

I have tried a few things: Pool noodles on the roof with ratchet straps, this required extensive setup but was cheap and secure; Yakima rack with hollow pool noodle over bars to prevent slippage and ratchets, not as cheap, but at least as secure and MUCH easier setup; and finally, Yakima rack with posts for sideways loading, and ratchet straps. Latter works well for two kayaks, but you need to be careful when rigging up the ratchets, and take into account that the post will have some flexibility. This flexibility can be combated with a wrap of the ratchet about midway up the post. There will still be a little wiggle there, and that's OK. If you don't account for it your kayaks will move ALOT. May not fly off, but the lateral motion is nerve wracking. Easiest setup? As solid7 mentioned, straight roof rack with foam on top. In my opinion, loading the kayak sideways isn't much tougher on level ground than loading flat, but securing it properly with straps takes some extra time. On an incline, loading kayaks sideways SUCKS with one person, wouldn't be too bad with 2. I've made a couple long trips with a pair of sideways kayaks, they definitely catch more crosswind. Given you're only loading one, I'd invest in some foam pads and load that sucker flat.


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## notso (Jul 18, 2005)

solid7 said:


> Nope, foam cradles is what I said. I hate the J hooks. Anything that involves rotating the boat is bad business. Believe me, I've dropped enough kayaks to know.
> 
> Not to mention trying to steer an SUV in a stiff crosswind with a sideways kayak.... That SUCKS.


Once I got the technique down, I find loading my X-factor onto my Tahoe is not too tough. To me, the key for easy loading is having your rack stick out far enough (or use a bar extender) so that you can put up one end at a time. The flipping over part isn't too tough. Or you can just load it upside down to start with.


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## solid7 (Dec 31, 2010)

Northwoods said:


> I didn't know if there was anything with aerodynamics or something.


Cars aren't inherently aerodynamic, to begin with. Once you've put ANYTHING on your roof, (unless it's some sort of invverted spoiler) you've really blown it. No need to worry about that part.



notso said:


> Once I got the technique down, I find loading my X-factor onto my Tahoe is not too tough. To me, the key for easy loading is having your rack stick out far enough (or use a bar extender) so that you can put up one end at a time. The flipping over part isn't too tough. Or you can just load it upside down to start with.


I dropped my kayak SO many times trying to load it flat down. When only one point is resting on the ground, sooner or later, it's gonna roll. At the end of a long day of rowing, I don't always have enough ass left to hump the kayak onto the roof. I don't need to fight a rolling gator.

I just lift the front end up, and push it up over the rear bar of the rack at an incline angle. (from the back of the truck, pushing forward) Once the front of the yak is over the rear cradle, and I can tip it, I start sliding. Usually, the hull is still a bit wet, so it slides fairly easily. When it gets to a certain point, I stop sliding, and start "walking" it in. Or, I just walk to the front, and grab the T-handle to pull it forward. Piece of cake.

Of course, when loading it at home, I just have somebody help me.


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## Ronaulmtd (Feb 8, 2011)

I load my Hobie Outback by myself on my Ford Focus sedan- I have Yakima roof mounts and Land Shark saddles...use a DIY loader mounted on the trunk. I bring the Outback up from the water by using a scupper cart. Once I get it to the car I put a big beach towel on the ground under the keel to protect the yak, lift the bow onto the DIY loader. Keeping the yak balanced on the loader, I walk to the stern and using the handle, I pick the stern up pushing the yak forward to get it up on top of my car. I secure the Outback with cam straps sitting upright on the Land Shark saddles. Safe and secure I drive my yak home.


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