# Daiwa HV Help-casting blocks vs. spool tension knob



## chinookhead (Dec 13, 2004)

I just received my daiwa HV that I'll be using as a heaver reel. Can someone explain to me the use of the casting blocks since the reel also has a spool tension knob (it's a gold knob on the side) that seems to be able to lock it down pretty hard on free spool even without the blocks. Do I use that knob just like u do with those 4 knobs on the outside of the abu or do I want that knob loose and do I just adjust with the blocks? On my abu 6500C3 that I currently use to toss big weight I tighten those knobs all the way and I still have to use my thumb to prevent backlashes, but it does not cause nearly as much braking power as that gold knob on the daiwa. I'm going to be taking it out for the first time this week. Do u suggest putting the red blocks in with the round side out? 
Thanks for the hep in advanced,
Chinookhead


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## Tinybaum (Mar 8, 2004)

I run a set of the blocks, and have my knob loose. I believe the knob cuts into your gear ratio???

Anyway you will want those brakes in. I would start with the 2 red ones and mix and match to see what works best to keep you from birds nesting your line. Or you can get the real magged and get rid of the brakes and adjust the spool through knobs on the side.

Tiny


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## Tommy (Jan 24, 2001)

Chinook,

Great reel choice.

Adjust the tension knob until you have just a hint of side to side play. Use the brake blocks to control the reel. You should have two sets of blocks, red and white.

Red blocks with the flat side out give = most braking.
Red blocks with the rounded side out = little more speed but still good control.
One red and one white = faster still.
White = fast.

Play around with the combinations and find what works best with your casting style.

Hope this helps,

Tommy


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## Black Beard (Jan 25, 2001)

Chinookhead – the end tension knob will work as a brake on your Daiwa as the spool and spindle are a combined unit. However, it is pretty much accepted that braking a spool should be a combination of not a lot end tension, brakes, line level and the viscosity of the oil in your spool bearings.

Don’t over fill the spool – the line adds weight to it which requires increased braking to control the rotational force. 

Start by using the largest brake blocks and work down, the other way around normally means it costs more in line!

Use a medium weight oil in the spool bearings so you get a mix of oil braking, centrifugal braking with a slightly lower line level. Only use end tension if you still need it after all the above and release it when not casting.

*********************

Okay, now the bad news. Most modern Abu 6500 reels use the UltraCast spool system with the two spool bearings inside the spool running on a separate shaft. Unlike reels such as the Daiwa where the shaft rotates with the spool, on the Abu the spool rotates on the shaft. 

If you wind up the end tension all you are doing is putting pressure on the bearings. In effect you are pushing the inner part of the bearing out of the outer part. This dramatically reduces bearing life and puts pressure on the whole drive train.

The end tension system was established way back in the 1940’s when the reels were designed for casting light lures – 10 to 40grams - for trout and salmon in Swedish rivers.

The spools in UltraCast reels should have just a little endplay for optimum running.

Ghood luck - BB


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## chinookhead (Dec 13, 2004)

*Sideplay?*

Thanks everyone for the replies. This is a great site and very informative....saved me from runining my tackle. When you say that there should be just a hint of side play, is that when I spin the spool or do u mean if I grab the spool i should be able to move it side to side a bit? Blackbeard, thanks for the heads up....I probably already have started wearing out my bearings since I have been tossing big weight on the abu and tightening those knobs all the way. It definitely does not cast as well as it did last fall when I first started casting big weights on it. It's not too bad since I was planning on buying better bearings for the reel anyways. Those bearings lasted 5 years of casting musky/pike lures (1-2oz) because i was not tightening those knobs all the way...learning.


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## Tommy (Jan 24, 2001)

Neil is right. It is a combination of blocks, oil and line level that together control the reel.

I made the mistake several years ago of trying to "hop up" a SL30SHV by using a thinner diameter line, cleaning the bearings and putting in yellow rocket fuel. Man what a mistake. I ended up with an uncontrolable beast that would blow if you just looked at it wrong....lol. A properly tuned reel makes a day fishing much more enjoyable.

The side to side play should be checked with the spool static. Just grab it and move it back and forth. Just a little movement is all you want. 

Tommy


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## chinookhead (Dec 13, 2004)

*med. oil?*

What type of medium oil do u suggest? Also, is the oil that it comes with adequate or do u suggest adding more med. oil before taing it out for the first time?


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## Black Beard (Jan 25, 2001)

The oil that comes with the reel is for general lubrication, way too thin for bearings - unless you like casting on, and probably over the edge!

For the bearings I would suggest Red Rocket Fuel or even Liquid Grease from the same place. Alternatively a light automotive gear oil like EP80 would be fine.

Fishing for 49 years and STILL learning! BB


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