# Tow Ropes



## Kwesi W.

Getting ready to hit AI and need to get the Required Eqipment. My last item is a 10ft long tow rope that can pull upto 6,000. Home Depot has them for 30 bucks; is that my best option?


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## AtlantaKing

Wally World carries them too. 

However, keep in mind that the tow rope/strap should be the very last resort, as most "modern" vehicles don't have the necessary hard points to use one on. The tow vehicle needs a class III tow hitch, and a shackle hanger that fits in it, and the vehicle being towed should have a front hitch or shackle hangers mounted on the frame. Anything else (control arms, front half-axles, the little "tow hooks" or tires) is not sufficient, and may be damaging to either vehicle at best, extremely dangerous at worst. 

FYI, a good tire guage and the best shovel you can afford plays a more important part. Carry a full sized shovel, air down properly (18-19psi is a good start), drive carefully and you should be good


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## notso

I would also want my tow rope/strap to be A LOT longer than 10 ft. Most of the time, 10ft isn't going to be enough to let the tower be outside of the "trouble spot". I had a buddy get stuck last spring down on O'coke. After we tried some pretty sketchy stuff with hooking multiple tow straps together (because you had to be at least 50ft away) & failed to get him out, the guys from the service station showed up w/ a rope about 1-1/2" diameter & about 100ft long & managed to YANK him out. It was impressive (& a little scarey to watch).


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## Mark G

*yep*

find one in the 25 to 30' long range, never needed mine (knock on wood) but always carry it with me.

Good thing as I have pulled others out with it.


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## Ralph

*there's some good advice...*

already given so i won't bother adding anything.
here is a site that might interest you.

http://www.recoverygear.com/recoverystraps.html


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## bcssux

best ive ever used and my personal favorite is the cargo straps used by flatbed semi-trucks. you can get em at alot of truckstops. ya cant break em


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## Kwesi W.

thanks guys!


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## Shooter

OK so yea I have a strap and a chain but the best thing I have ever seen for pulling someone out is a BRAIDED line. The braid takes the shock out of the snatch so less chance of damage to either truck and a good forcefull tug is sometimes required to get someone unstuck either mud or sand.

Oh yea and no less than 20 foot because ya never want to be in the same stuck hole your pulling someone else out of


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## Kwesi W.

thanks Shooter..


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## fisheagle

I carry 2 30' tow straps. got them at tractor supply co.


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## notso

If you get one of the webbing type tow straps, I would stay away from the ones with hooks on the ends. If a hook breaks, or comes loose while the strap is stretched, it can easily go thru a wind shield or worse. Get one with loops at teh ends it'll hook more securely to a hitch or tow hook & if it comes off, you don't have a 1/2lb hunk of steel flying at somebodys truck.


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## narfpoit

Shooter said:


> OK so yea I have a strap and a chain but the best thing I have ever seen for pulling someone out is a BRAIDED line. The braid takes the shock out of the snatch so less chance of damage to either truck and a good forcefull tug is sometimes required to get someone unstuck either mud or sand.
> 
> Oh yea and no less than 20 foot because ya never want to be in the same stuck hole your pulling someone else out of


Not sure if you meant this in jest or not but you can actually get tow ropes made of both Dyneema and spectra and as you stated since there is no stretch there is less chance of slingshot towhooks.


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## basstardo

Shooter said:


> OK so yea I have a strap and a chain but the best thing I have ever seen for pulling someone out is a BRAIDED line.


Do you prefer PowerPro or Fireline?  I hear Ford's using PowerPro get a lot of wind knots. PowerPro might cut your tow hooks too.


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## surf rat

*Tow ropes*

Master pull. Check out their website. The braided tow rope, bridle. shackles are first class. We used thier stuff a lot on the military. If you have a 8,000 lb truck you want at least a 20,000 lb tow rope. If your tow rope breaks it can be ugly.


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## basstardo

surf rat said:


> If your tow rope breaks it can be ugly.


This is very true. I used to carry a couple of sandbags on the beach when I had my truck. If I was pulling someone out with the winch, I'd fill them up and place them over the winch cable in case it broke. A flying winch cable can do some serious damage, as can a tow rope/strap.


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## eric

spectra fiber tow ropes...... 25000lb.... overkill... ahhaaaaha




after thinking a lil. ya a nylon cable wouldnt do so much damage, then i picture a winch with steel cable.
so basstardo. you put the sandbags over the winch cable in the middle??
im guessing so after it breaks. itll weigh the cable down into the sand? and not flap into mid air?


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## Lightload

*Related towing question*

I'm currently carrying tow chains but I'd like to switch over to a tow rope or strap. My truck has a class III hitch on the back. Do I need to get a shackle plug or a hook that fits into the receiver hitch or can I just stuff the tow rope loop into the receiver (if it fits) and then run the hitch pin through the loop?


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## basstardo

ooeric said:


> spectra fiber tow ropes...... 25000lb.... overkill... ahhaaaaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after thinking a lil. ya a nylon cable wouldnt do so much damage, then i picture a winch with steel cable.
> so basstardo. you put the sandbags over the winch cable in the middle??
> im guessing so after it breaks. itll weigh the cable down into the sand? and not flap into mid air?


You got it. The sandbag will usually stop a flying cable or at the very least reduce it's momentum and direct it at the ground. The nylon straps are pretty dangerous as well if they have the permanently attached hooks. I used the tow straps with loops on either end and had industrial type clevis's that were rated to ~50,000 pounds. I got them from my Dad who used to be a crane operator. Much safer than a cheap hook on a tow strap. I've seen one of those hooks break and fly through the back glass of a truck cab and crack the passenger side of the windshield. Downright scary.  Would have probably killed someone had they been in the passenger seat


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## Mark G

Lightload said:


> I'm currently carrying tow chains but I'd like to switch over to a tow rope or strap. My truck has a class III hitch on the back. Do I need to get a shackle plug or a hook that fits into the receiver hitch or can I just stuff the tow rope loop into the receiver (if it fits) and then run the hitch pin through the loop?


Depends on the size of the loops in the tow strap, mine fit up into my reciever hitch so I can insert the pin into the loops, no problem,


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## Centralpafish

I checked out the recovery gear site suggested by Ralph. Had a 15' strap, now I got a 30'er too. Check out the trenching tool they sell. Might have to get one. Philly Jack


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## eric

basstardo said:


> You got it. The sandbag will usually stop a flying cable or at the very least reduce it's momentum and direct it at the ground. The nylon straps are pretty dangerous as well if they have the permanently attached hooks. I used the tow straps with loops on either end and had industrial type clevis's that were rated to ~50,000 pounds. I got them from my Dad who used to be a crane operator. Much safer than a cheap hook on a tow strap. I've seen one of those hooks break and fly through the back glass of a truck cab and crack the passenger side of the windshield. Downright scary.  Would have probably killed someone had they been in the passenger seat



ive seen and done scarier.

i used to do autobody work.

wait till you see or use a frame puller.

2" steel link chains, clamps, and a 15 ton jack to pull that chain...

to pull out dented car frames.

the sound it makes when the metal its clamped too breaks. lol you feel your heart stop for a sec.


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## fyremanjef

AtlantaKing said:


> Wally World carries them too.
> 
> However, keep in mind that the tow rope/strap should be the very last resort, as most "modern" vehicles don't have the necessary hard points to use one on. The tow vehicle needs a class III tow hitch, and a shackle hanger that fits in it, and the vehicle being towed should have a front hitch or shackle hangers mounted on the frame. Anything else (control arms, front half-axles, the little "tow hooks" or tires) is not sufficient, and may be damaging to either vehicle at best, extremely dangerous at worst.
> 
> FYI, a good tire guage and the best shovel you can afford plays a more important part. Carry a full sized shovel, air down properly (18-19psi is a good start), drive carefully and you should be good




hmm... I have a hidden hitch mounted on the front where my two tow hooks use to be. Not sure of the rating... so Where would I hook my straps if I need to be pulled out? Or will that suffice. I used the bolts used with the hidden hitch.. seem similar to those that I took out. and I dont have a rear hitch.

I have never really thought about points to apply a tow strap. Hopefully, if/when, I get stuck and need a pull, the puller will have a bit of experience. 

I have an 04 GMC Yukon.

Any idears?

Thanks,

Jeff


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## SkunkApe

*This one hold a bit of Truck*

Got this one at Target...it holds up to 10k LBS. Haven't had the need to use it yet....and I stress, yet......










Skunk,


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## TugCapn

*Amsteel or Spectra*

Either of these synthetics are good. We use them as face-up lines on the tugs. They are somewhat costly "BUT" you will only buy them once. Another great feature is NO RECOIL after breakage, greatly reducing the possibility of Person/Property damage. You'll rip your rearend out before you break this stuff


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## fyremanjef

Spectra, ropes, chains or whatever... just dont do this...

How not to tow out a car stuck in the snow

its and oldie but goodie.


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## Ralph

*x-mas gift...*

jeff, this guy's dvd is a little pricey, but if you can get it as a stocking stuffer its worth the $$$$ IMHO.

http://www.bb4wa.com/


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## Ralph

*Getting Unstuck...*

JEFF, is the name of the dvd that i found helpful. i hope it helps.


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## fyremanjef

hey Ralph,

Yeah it looks pretty interesting.. might have to check it out... Then after watching it, I might just sell it in the market place.


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## kenyee

surf rat said:


> Master pull.


Ditto on this; they also sell kits w/ the shackles you'll need. Only negative is the extra space it takes up compared to a regular recovery strap.
I wrote up a review on it a while back but have yet to test it:
http://www.keysolutions.com/M-Class.nsf/aac7d56ca8fd884b852563be00610639/2d7f213d8434b5e5852570cc0002bc85


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## rgking03

Ralph said:


> already given so i won't bother adding anything.
> here is a site that might interest you.
> 
> http://www.recoverygear.com/recoverystraps.html


I have the same strap but in a 4" wide with 6" shackles..Paid around 80 bucks for the strap and buckles were from a lineman and it hasn't failed me yet..


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## Rockfish1

Philly Jack said:


> I checked out the recovery gear site suggested by Ralph. Had a 15' strap, now I got a 30'er too. Check out the trenching tool they sell. Might have to get one. Philly Jack


do yourself a favor and get a full sized shovel... if you ever have to use it you'll thank yourself... get the E-tool and you'll cuss yourself forever...


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## Sandcrab

*Beach compliance stuff*

http://shop2.mailordercentral.com/thesurfcaster/products.asp?dept=63

I got the tow rope, tire gauge, and deflaters from them.

Sandcrab


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## Sandcrab

Rockfish1 said:


> do yourself a favor and get a full sized shovel... if you ever have to use it you'll thank yourself... get the E-tool and you'll cuss yourself forever...


I second that! Last time I fished AI VA, I ended up helping a Ranger get unstuck with my full size shovel (Thanks for the tip AK). He had a punk shovel and would still be there shoveling.. 

Sandcrab


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## Axon

this is the tow strap I have:
Canyon Crawler Tow Strap
2 in.Wide X 30 ft Long
20,000 lbs. Rating
Braided Nylon Construction
http://www.4wheelparts.com/PDT25258.aspx 
and this is the receiver shackle I'm ordering if I cant find it cheaper http://www.4wheelparts.com/PDT57636.aspx


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## scavengerj

I'd second the sandbag idea. Have never had sand bags to use but an old burlap sack, shirt or jacket/coat will work. One of the biggest things people overlook is that cable/strap breaking or coming loose. Covering it deadens the energy.


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## Ralph

*Careful...*



scavengerj said:


> I'd second the sandbag idea. Have never had sand bags to use but an old burlap sack, shirt or jacket/coat will work. One of the biggest things people overlook is that cable/strap breaking or coming loose. Covering it deadens the energy.


A PIECE OF CLOTH COVERING A METAL CABLE WILL NOT ABSORBS ITS ENERGY WHEN/IF THAT CABLE FAILS. UNLESS ITS WHOLE LOT OF CLOTH, BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN i.e bodily injury & property damage. 
the current trend is switching from metal cable to the something called synthetic winch line. when winch line fails it generates no [technically negligble] energy.


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## scavengerj

I stand corrected in my statement. It won't absorb the energy if the cable breaks but it I think surely it will slow it down better then a bare cable flying and *may* help lessen the impact of that cable. With or without, I don't want to be in it's path to find out 
I'd agree if I were buying a new cable I'd go for the newer synthetic materials. I think most use straps nowadays anyway so the cable thing may not be much of an issue for many.


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## reelrebel18

bcssux said:


> best ive ever used and my personal favorite is the cargo straps used by flatbed semi-trucks. you can get em at alot of truckstops. ya cant break em


thats a good way to get killed they don't stretch buy a real recovery strap or braided line like a masterpull that is built for the job please... before you get your self hurt


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