# Kayak Transportation



## charliechurch (Nov 27, 2007)

I am pretty much dead certain on getting a kayak within the next week or so. The problem is I live in Fairfax, Virginia and primarily fish in the VB area. I was wondering if there is anything I should be aware of in regards to transporting a kayak on top of a car between that distance(3.5 hours in car)? I do have a place I could leave it in the VB area but it would be ideal to be able to transport it with me so I can take it around up here too. Any help is appreciated


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## Jesse Lockowitz (Feb 13, 2006)

charliechurch said:


> I am pretty much dead certain on getting a kayak within the next week or so. The problem is I live in Fairfax, Virginia and primarily fish in the VB area. I was wondering if there is anything I should be aware of in regards to transporting a kayak on top of a car between that distance(3.5 hours in car)? I do have a place I could leave it in the VB area but it would be ideal to be able to transport it with me so I can take it around up here too. Any help is appreciated


thule makes some nice racks. also, u can just get two of the V wedge foam blocks, and ratchet strap the front and back of the kayak down to the front and rear of ur car tightly..


i throw mine in the bed of my ranger with a strap, and it does fine. but, on a car, id definately atleast get a couple of the foam blocks that dont slide.



Jesse


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## bbcroaker (Jan 6, 2005)

Looks to me like it would be better strapped on the Thule rack.
Might bend her strapped in front and back in the summer heat. .but i throw mine in the truck too


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## fishpimper (Nov 15, 2007)

i use yakima products on both my yota and suburban -- transported 3 kayaks more than 2000on one trip alone.
the only product that i've used that i wasn't happy with is the kayak stacker attachment -- its designed to haul small whitewater boats. had one snap on me and dragged a boat down I-95 near miami during rush hour. :redface: 
the hull raiser and hulley rollers are sweet units though. i like the hulley rollers becasue you can almost leave your boat fully rigged. 
which ever system you decide on be sure to use front and rear tie downs along with two tie downs around the hull.


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## Too Busy (Sep 7, 2007)

You didn't say what you're driving. Thule or yakima are good choices, buy you can transport a yak on anything if you're a little creative.








The bow rope is just there to keep if from sliding aft.
The strap forward of the cockpit passes through the car, so the boat isn't going anywhere.
The strap on the rear attached to a T bar that fits my reciever hitch and the strap pases thru the carry handle and wraps around the T bar.

The yak rests on a foam block so it doesn't hurt the soft top.


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## Hannibal (Aug 10, 2007)

I personally feel that if you use the foam blocks and pay particular attention in strapping the yak down - you will be fine. I know a lot of people swear by the Thule (and others) racks but I've had no problems with the blocks at all. 

Just make sure you strap it down well - like overkill. Run the lines through the scupper holes. 

I just did 7 hours to Buxton with no problems. I did lose a foam pad though while hitting the off-road mud course - previously known as the Campground entrace to the Point. ;-)


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## GlockGuy (Apr 21, 2008)

If at all possible, a kayak trailer is actually the best way to go, unless you have a truck bed to put it in. Wind isn't as much of an issue and you'd be amazed at how much your fuel mileage will go down with that kayak on your roof. At $3.35/gallon, it'll add up fast. The Rack and Roll trailer is particularly nice. IMHO.


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## Tnarg (May 3, 2007)

If using straps instead of rope for bow/ stern tie downs, put a few twists in the strap so they don't buzz at high speeds. My Yakima round bars are presently covered in jumbo 6" pool noodles, which serve incredibly well (and cheap!) as loading rollers until things are snugged down. I also use a 6' x 1/2" loop-end bicycle lock cable and padlock through the scuppers and around a bar for a little insurance.


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