# Newbie Question



## Fesster (May 19, 2010)

I am looking to get into kayak fishing and have a couple of questions I am sure I can get some opinions on here. I am planning on getting a couple of yaks, one for me and one for my wife. I am about 5'9 240 and she's 5'5 135 and we plan to use them locally on lakes, rivers and occassional surf and sound trips. 

Currently, we are leaning towards the Hobie Outbacks, but are also considering the Revo, Tarpon 120 and Trident 13. Why these boats, because it seems like they are among the most popular, but I am open to suggestions. I know everyone says to demo, but I am of the opinion that if I don't know what I am missing on the other yak, it won't hurt me. Plus, I suspect each of the yaks listed will be better suited for one use or the other and I can't demo all the yaks in all situations. So I am really looking for opinions based on my size and intended use.

Questions:

1. Color - any opinions about which color is easiest to see by other boats or (god forbid) from the air? I have also read that some people get headaches from bright kayaks, any experience here?

2. Should I get two of the same yak? Are their advantages/disadvantages to us both having the same one? Maybe an Outback and Revo?

Anything else you can share would be appreciated by a newbie. Thanks!


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## c.story (Jul 28, 2009)

It's not on your list, but I now know and have seen that the OK Big Game is an exceptional kayak. For someone of your size, I feel that it would suit you very well.

Now for your wife, since she's smaller I would say either the Tarpon or Trident. 

Of course these are only my personal thoughts. I'm sure some other guys on this board will be much more informative than I am. Food for thought though.


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## Too Busy (Sep 7, 2007)

I have a few more questions before I make a suggestion

How far do you plan to paddle?
How often do you plan to paddle?
What's more important easier paddling or initital stability?
Are you both relatively fit?
Do you plan to stick together while paddling / fishing / playing in the surf?


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## Fesster (May 19, 2010)

We are both relatively fit and would likely be together during our trips. As for length and frequency of trips, it is tough for me to answer how we'll ultimately use them. I would guess day long trips of several miles would not be out of the question and my wife has recently talked about camping out of them. I don't know if that will materialize or not. My hope is that we would routinely go out on the weekends and fish.

Easier paddling or intial stability? Tough call. We are scuba divers and have both completed rescue diver training so I would say we are extremely comfortable on the water. Taking a spill out of the yak is not a huge concern. We would most likely be fair-weathered kayakers as well. I guess that means easier paddling.


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## O Shin Rin (Aug 31, 2009)

I might suggest 1 peddle and 1 paddle, The Outback would be nice if you have the buget and I think the OK Big Game might be a bet big for your size ( I have one and I'm 6'1 270 great for me ) I'd look at the Ride 135 or Tarpon 120/140.
That way you'll get the both of the best worlds and work out, 
you can still paddle the Outback but if she gets tried of peddleing/paddleing you can jump in the OB and pull her 

jerry


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## Too Busy (Sep 7, 2007)

I'm a huge Wilderness Systems fan and a member of their Pro Staff, so here are my thoughts in our product line.

Based on your size(s) I'd suggest you demo the Tarpon 160, 140 and Ride 135

I love my Tarpon 160, and my Tarpon 140, and my Ride 135 all for different reasons.

The T160 is my distance and wind boat. I paddle it when I'm covering several miles in a trip, when I know I'll be doing runs against a lot of tide, and when the wind is howling. I want the length and hull efficiency to be able to make headway in tough conditions. 

The T140 is the crossover boat. Not as fast as the T160, a bit faster but less stable than the Ride 135. It is lighter and more maneuverable than the T160. It's a couple of years old and has plenty of scrapes and gouges from oysters, barnacles, dock pilings and the like. I paddle it when I'm going shorter distances and getting into tighter places. it's ideal for getting between the pilings of the old coal trestle for sheeps.

The Ride 135 is my client boat (mainly). I put clients on the Ride because it's stable without being a beast to paddle. Most clients don't want to cover a lot of miles, so the lower hull speed / efficiency isn't an issue. I also take this boat out when it's nice and slick and I want to do some standup fly fishing. It floats in water skinnier tan big reds are willing to swim in, so it gets me where I want to be.


Hope this helps.

BTW - O Shin Rin's pedal paddle combo is a good idea (if you like to pedal)


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## O Shin Rin (Aug 31, 2009)

BTW - O Shin Rin's pedal paddle combo is a good idea (if you like to pedal) :rolleyes:[/QUOTE said:


> Yeah Busy,
> my Big Game is no speedtier for sure but super stable, I was thinking of the peddleing for Fesster's lady
> You make good points on the T140/T160 and Ride 135.
> I like the room you have in the Ride for standing and sight casting.
> ...


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## Fesster (May 19, 2010)

After much research and waffling back and forth between models, I put a Tarpon 120 and a Ocean Kayak Trident Prowler 13 on hold today to purchase on Monday. So if you think I am making a mistake, this is your last chance

I appreciate very much all the advice I received on this site and hope to be posting stories of success before too long.


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## Too Busy (Sep 7, 2007)

I think you'll be happy with that combo.


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## Fesster (May 19, 2010)

Went to go pick up the two kayaks I put on hold yesterday and ran into a big snag - roof rack weight limit. Despite me asking the question about half a dozen times before putting the yaks on hold I was assured that it could be done and even watched as the guy looked up my vehicle in the Yakima guide book. So after spending several hours picking out PFDs, paddles, fishing accessories, etc. the store guy I was working with went to check on which rack would be the best fit. He came back shaking his head and told me that none of the Yakima racks would hold the weight I needed for two kayaks. I knew this could be an issue (which is why I asked so many times), but I guess I could've checked things out myself. 

Needless to say, I was pretty disappointed and am now looking into trailers. I am not certain I want to go down that path, but it doesn't seem like I have much choice. There are some small flat trailers at Northern Tool and equipment for $200 and I have seen kayak racks built on them so that maybe an option. If anyone has any trailer suggestions or any other suggestion short of buying a new truck, please let me know. Thanks!


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## bbcroaker (Jan 6, 2005)

The northern tool trailer is a good option for the money. My son converted one into a 12' jon boat trailer and it does fine.
I would not back it into salt water though. Which you would not need to do with kayaks .


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## cducer (May 7, 2010)

Have you looked in to Thule roof racks?... I am sure you can find a system to hold 2 yaks before you commit to the trailer route

www.thule.com


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## cducer (May 7, 2010)

what kind of vehicle do you have?


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## Too Busy (Sep 7, 2007)

I'm really surprised that there isn't a Yakima option that'll handle 2 yaks.

If you go the trailer route I'd find an old jon boat trailer to use as a base.

here's my rig for hauling 4 yaks.









I've got about $300 in it including the T bars and rod / paddle coffin


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## narfpoit (Jun 16, 2004)

What kind of Truck and rack do you have? I use Thule Cross bars and carry 1 OK P13 and 1 OK Malibu 2 and haven't had any problems. The Prowler is in a Malone J cradle and the Malibu rides upside down on the rack. I thought most rack systems were rated to 150 pounds so that should be able to handle your 2 kayaks.


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## Fesster (May 19, 2010)

I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute with a factory rack and crossbar. The limit on this system is 100 lbs according to the Yakima website and my owner's manual. The Thule website refers you to the limit listed in the owner's manual. 

I don't really understand how the Thule or Yakima systems are applied to the roof rack, but it sounded like they clamp into existing portions of the roof rack and therefore the limitations in the owner's manual would hold. If there is some way to remove the factory rack and replace it with a more durable sytem, then the weight limit could be changed. I just don't see that available for my SUV.

Trust me, I was very surprised that this would be an issue.


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## cducer (May 7, 2010)

just curious.... does your suv have rain gutters? maybe consider using the thule or yakima feet that attach to the gutters or the other style that sit on top of the vehicle and clamp in the door jamb. 

I agree that the factory cross bars on most vehicles are generally light but I think that both thule and yakima would have a system that would attach to your existing tracks and use stronger bars.

just a thought 

Good luck


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## atblis (Jul 20, 2003)

I'd run it. Just drive slow. Don't go ripping down the highway at 80 mph. You gotta figure there's a pretty hefty factor of safety or whatever the engineers feel like calling it. A bit of 100lbs shouldn't be a big deal.


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## narfpoit (Jun 16, 2004)

Use this type of foot instead of attaching to the factory cross bars this setup will hold much more than your factory cross bars. It would only be limited by how much the roof itself can support. Once you get these feet and some cross bars you should be able to carry 2 kayaks no problem. You will probably need to put at least one kayak in a J cradle type carrier to have enough space depending on how wide the kayaks are.


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## Fesster (May 19, 2010)

Unless I am mistaken, the Thule foot you are linking to attaches to my factory rack which has a limit of 100 lbs. The installation instructions to that product refer to the vehicle's owners manual for the weight limitation. Now, the limitation in the owner's manual says the limit is based on the weight being evenly distributed over the factory crossbar, so I guess the question is whether it is the crossbar or the racks themselves that are the weak link. What I do know is that neither Thule nor Yakima websites are very clear and in some regards are pretty misleading.

I definitely agree that the weight limit is probably too conservative on my factory rack and if was a matter of a few pounds, I probably wouldnt worry about it. However, the wieght of two Kayaks plus the weight of the after market J racks would probably make me overweight by 40% or more. That makes me a little nervous but I am still considering it.

Thanks for the suggestions though.


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## notso (Jul 18, 2005)

While I don't see one listed for your particular vehicle, I would bet that you could get a set of yakima "Q-towers" or what ever thules equivalent is and a set of clips, that would go directly to the roof in stead of using that wimpy factory rack. Since it's not listed in their fitment guide, this would probably require going to a store that sold the rack systems & trial fitting towers & clips until you found something that worked.
Another option, (if your suv has a trailer hitch) would be to get an "extend a bed" to hook into the hitch, this would support at least 1/2 of the load & bring the load on your rack easily into the acceptable range. No matter what system you decide to use, bow lines are definately recomended & will aleviate most of the load exerted on the rack while you're driving down the road.


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## narfpoit (Jun 16, 2004)

Fesster said:


> Unless I am mistaken, the Thule foot you are linking to attaches to my factory rack which has a limit of 100 lbs. The installation instructions to that product refer to the vehicle's owners manual for the weight limitation. Now, the limitation in the owner's manual says the limit is based on the weight being evenly distributed over the factory crossbar, so I guess the question is whether it is the crossbar or the racks themselves that are the weak link. What I do know is that neither Thule nor Yakima websites are very clear and in some regards are pretty misleading.
> 
> I definitely agree that the weight limit is probably too conservative on my factory rack and if was a matter of a few pounds, I probably wouldnt worry about it. However, the wieght of two Kayaks plus the weight of the after market J racks would probably make me overweight by 40% or more. That makes me a little nervous but I am still considering it.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions though.


The rating in your manual is for the factory Cross bars not the rack base itself. You should be fine I do it all the time. The rack companies Just don't want to be liable if something goes wrong that is why they wont state a weight rating.


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## atblis (Jul 20, 2003)

Another thing to consider is the factory roof rack ratings might have nothing to do with strength at all. They may be partially limited by vehicle handling dynamics. Basically. A couple hundred pounds of extra weight strapped on top of your car makes it easy to roll.


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