# Cork Handle Question



## rocket

I'm about to build my second rod and I want to try a cork handle. It's a 10' Cast Pro and it will be built as a spinning Spanish rod. The distance from the butt to the bottom of the reel seat is going to be approx. 18". My question is does it make sense to try to find a one piece cork handle or should I go with a split grip? I was looking on mudhole and didn't see any cork handles that were long enough. Is cork even a good idea for a rod this size? Also, if anyone has pictures of surf rods with cork handles I'd love to see them.


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## rocket

Also, how difficult is it to work with cork rings? Does anyone know of a good online tutorial?


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## Tacpayne

Where are you located Rocket? I may have asked before but If Im close you can come down and I will help you out anytime


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## Tacpayne

Cork is fine, but I would do split grips with the blank exposed in between, you can cover the blank wtih heat shrink to help protect it if you want. Cork is really easy to work wiht, I glue my rings together with wood glue and put in a clamp, then take out and shape on my lathe ream and install


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## rocket

Tacpayne said:


> Cork is fine, but I would do split grips with the blank exposed in between, you can cover the blank wtih heat shrink to help protect it if you want. Cork is really easy to work wiht, I glue my rings together with wood glue and put in a clamp, then take out and shape on my lathe ream and install


I live in Graham, NC. I think it's about an hour and a half from Salisbury. Thanks for the advice and I appreciate the offer for some hands on instruction. If I find myself in a bind I might just take you up on it.

Do you mind if I ask why you prefer the split grip? I was kind of leaning that way too but I'm really not sure why except for the fact that I couldn't find any pre-made cork handles long enough. What kind of lathe do you use? I have a pac-bay power wrapper that I think would do ok for working with cork.


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## Tacpayne

I like the split grips for looks, and to save some weight. Plus your rod holders will chew your cork up pretty bad also. I turn mine on a porter cable midi wood lathe or my Clemens rod lathe, your pac bay will turn it fine, just go slow


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## mmanolis2001

What is the diameter of the rod butt? If it is large (.800 to .900) reaming the cork handle to fit the rear of the blank can be tricky. In situations like that i would tend to go with a split grip. Its easier to ream two 5" sections than one 18" piece. Although you could separate the 18" piece in sections. Ream them separately and glue it up the sections together on the rod. Might have to do some extra sanding to level everything of but it works as well.

Is cork tape or X-flock an option?


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## Mark G

Keep in mind sanding and reaming cork rings will make a huge, filthy dust mess. That's not something I would do on my rod lathe in the vicinity of my finishing area.

Like Chuck I turn cork on a wood lathe, but generally only do a foregrip in front of the reel seat on plugging surf rods. I'll generally stick to cork tape for the main butt handle,because as suggested, if you get cork rings too thin due to the diameter they need to be to accomodate the butt, they can come apart or even disentegrate when final sanding or reaming is done.


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## rocket

As always, great advice! Thanks guys for helping me out. 

One thing I really like about this blank is how thin and light it is. The butt is only about .68 inches so I think I'll be ok with that part.

I'm building the rod for my dad and I'm sure he'd be willing to go with a different type of handle but when I gave him his options he chose cork so I'd really like to at least give it a shot. I do think I'll try to sell him on the split grip with x-flock covering the exposed blank.

Building a custom cork handle from rings intrigues me but maybe I'll wait and try that when I decide to build a trout rod. This time I'll probably settle for a handle kit.


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## mmanolis2001

Try building the handle from rings. Its not hard and you have the flexibility to chose different cork styles to jazz it up. Gluing up the rings is easy and you can make a clamp for 2 bucks. Here is what i use to glue up cork rings











You can also use the threaded rod as a mandrel in a drill to sand and shape the grip. Not as good as a lathe but it works well for small sections of cork (split grips).

:beer:


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## Mark G

rocket said:


> As always, great advice! Thanks guys for helping me out.
> 
> One thing I really like about this blank is how thin and light it is. The butt is only about .68 inches so I think I'll be ok with that part.
> 
> I'm building the rod for my dad and I'm sure he'd be willing to go with a different type of handle but when I gave him his options he chose cork so I'd really like to at least give it a shot. I do think I'll try to sell him on the split grip with x-flock covering the exposed blank.
> 
> Building a custom cork handle from rings intrigues me but maybe I'll wait and try that when I decide to build a trout rod. This time I'll probably settle for a handle kit.



I think most of the cork handle kits are designed for specific blanks -- such as St. Croix kits for their own blanks. If you can find one that matches the taper of your blank, cool-- but I wouldn't be surprised if you have to ream them out some to get them to work with your specific blank-- if that is the case you might as well build your own from scratch as suggested.


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## rocket

All good points. I have already ordered some cork parts and a reamer. The cork didn't come as a kit. I picked the parts separately. They may not even match but they weren't very expensive. If those parts don't work, I'll use them for practice and then buy some rings and make my own.


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## rocket

mmanolis2001 said:


> You can also use the threaded rod as a mandrel in a drill to sand and shape the grip. Not as good as a lathe but it works well for small sections of cork (split grips).
> 
> :beer:


Can this be done by hand or does the drill need to be secured to something?


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## rocket

If anyone is interested I just found this on youtube. It looks pretty easy....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piEmJ50TB4s


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## mmanolis2001

rocket said:


> Can this be done by hand or does the drill need to be secured to something?


You can hold it by hand but you might bend the rod if you use too much pressure. I just drilled a 1/2" hole on the side of work bench. Stuck the other end of the rod in there and spun away. Works well enough

I always use a block with the sand paper attached to it to shape. This will help you avoid high or low spots. Especially if you are mixing different types of (harder or softer) cork rings. Final sanding can be done with or without the block.

I used the above method on my current build. This is after several coats of teak oil. I wanted to see if it works or looks better and casey's true oil.


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## rocket

Nice work.


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## rocket

Does anyone know of a good place to buy abrasive grit for making cork reamers? I found some on mudhole but I hate to pay $10 shipping for a $5 purchase.


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## mmanolis2001

I don't know of any places to buy the pre cut strips other than online shops. Don't know if it will work but how about cutting strips from a large belt sander belt. I Don't know if Home Depot sells the replacement belts for the larger belt sanders. You would have to epoxy the strip on the reamer rod but i might work


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## rocket

Actually, what I had in mind was just buying the grit (not glued to the paper yet) and then coating a blank with epoxy and pouring the grit onto the epoxy. I had to order some other stuff anyway so I broke down and got it from mudhole.


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## rocket

Well I decided to buy the cork rings and make my own handle. Once I got everything I needed the project wasn't all that difficult. I turned the cork on a pac bay power wrapper and reamed the inside diameter by hand. Here is how it turned out... not perfect but I'm pleased with it overall.


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## mmanolis2001

Looks great good job.

I like the X-Flock on the split.

:beer:


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## fbiprez

Nice!


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