# Rod Mod



## Redhorse (Mar 1, 2006)

I need to modify this heaver. The above pic is what the previous owner emailed me before I bought the rod. The cork wrap is dried and cracked, and the reel seat is to far up the rod for me (way to far). The guy said he had an additional 3" added onto the original blank because of his particular casting style. Well, I can go the cheap route and hack some of the butt section off, use shrink wrap to cover the old cork, and replace the butt cap. *OR*, I can have another eyelet added, move the reel seat down, and have new cork wrap put on. I'd rather retain the length...what do you think? Would this be cost prohibitive...or would it be reasonable...? I know I could do the hack and shrinky dink job myself, but not so the other. 

I'll get some measurements on it posted tomorrow.

In the meantime, any thoughts?


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## huckfinn38 (Jun 13, 2006)

*Leave the reel seat alone*

They are a [email protected]#$ to move once they are epoxied on. If you do move it you will have to cut it off with a dremel tool or something. I would remove the tape, cut the butt, then just add more cork tape. It is a easy process. Unless other guys out there no how to remove a reel seat, cutting it off is the only way I know. Clyde would be the pro at this though!


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## gundalba (Oct 29, 2006)

What Jebson said...
Cork tape is cheap and easy to replace.
I would peel it, cutt off that bottom 3" or more if needed, wrap new tape on and glue on rubber but cap.
Cheap and easy that way.
If you must move the seat;
- Think about it one more time  
- VERY CAREFULLY!!!!
- Using Dremel Cutoff wheel, cut length wise on both side of seat, again be very carefull so you don't cut too deep to the blank
- Place a flat head screw driver in the gap, use twist motion, pry open the seat little by little.
- Depend on the epoxy used;
Heat gun at low setting and try soften the glue, scrape off if it does.
If heat gun does not work, use new single blade to shave off those epoxy. Again, need to be very careful so you don't cut into the blank.
- Once most epoxy is removed, clean the rest off with denatured alcohole (No aceton!!)
- On the cleaned blank, rewrap, reseat everything to your liking...

Good luck!


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## Redhorse (Mar 1, 2006)

Sounds like a PITA... . Although that's what I'd rather do. Now I'm not sure....

Anyway...here are the measurements:

Butt to bottom lip of reel seat = 31"
1st eyelet to top of foregrip = 28 1/2"
1st eyelet to the threads on reel seat = 38 1/2"
OAL butt to tip top = 11' 3"

From my armpit to the tip of my middle finger = 28 1/2"

What would be an optimum length for the butt section of a rod for me?

I've used a dremel with a cut off wheel to take demilled reciever ends off of rifle barrels before. Careful not to get into the threads on the barrel, but just take enough to crack the old reciever chunck off. Sounds like a similar job...I didn't like it then either... .

Incidently...how much would a new reel seat cost? It has a Fuji on it now, and I'd probably replace it with one unless there is something better (if I go that route).


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## huckfinn38 (Jun 13, 2006)

*Fuji Reel Seat....*

The reel seat will cost you about $10, 5 min epoxy about $8. You will take 1/4 inch masking tape and build it up from the blank to where the reel seat becomes flush with the tape/blank. I leave a 1/4 inch space of blank in between my tape. Then you mix your 2 part epoxy and spread it all over the tape and the spaces in between the tape. Slide reel seat over the tape and then let set up.


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## chris storrs (Aug 25, 2005)

really depends on whats comfortable for you, for me i like with my thumb on teh reel to teh center of my chest..32"
i know several ppl that like the butt as short as 28" on a heaver, i know another guy that likes it at 40" 40" and 28" seem like extremes to me but its what works for them, id suggest taping you reel on in various areas them making some casts and seeing what you like

remember, you can always choke up on teh rod, but if you cut too far you have to put another seat on


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## Sandcrab (Mar 20, 2002)

*Cut it all off!*

Replacing the butt cap, cork tape, and reel seat will take no time at all...

Sandcrab


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## Digger (Jan 4, 2000)

That butt length may actually be Ok for you. The longer butt on a heaver helps with the leverage. The rod I learned on had a 33 inch butt.


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## Redhorse (Mar 1, 2006)

I didn't mind casting it with the reel seat in it's current location. It was just uncomfortable as h&!! on a retrieve. Couldn't tuck that butt section anywhere comfortable while reeling it in. Resting the butt on my knee with my leg bent was OK, but hard to keep it on there. Tucking the rod up under my arm was just uncomfortable and unwieldy. Knelt down and shoved the butt into the sand and retrieved from a kneeling position a couple times even... . Unless I'm totally overlooking some technique that would make it easier to retrieve...I want that reel seet closer to the butt.

Maybe a modified knee pad that holds the butt on there so it doesn't slip off...


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## chris storrs (Aug 25, 2005)

between the legs, might sound liek youll have some problems with your "plumbing"but not really, reeling in and even fighting a fish thats where the butt goes for most people..


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## USEF THE MAG (Jul 7, 2006)

[deleted: no commercial links allowed]


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## Redhorse (Mar 1, 2006)

I'll try that method the next time I go do some practice casting...maybe some new cork tape is all I need.


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