# XJ Mess



## rhorm (Mar 25, 2005)

And it's getting worse by the day. Will I ever have anyone in the backseat? LOL  :fishing: 









On another note does any one have a problem with the front speakers. This is my second XJ and I've had it on both.


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## SeaSalt (Apr 29, 2002)

front speaker problem is a feature on XJs...  I got one also. It has to do with faulty wiring.

Looks like you need some kind of rack or rack system to carry your gear.


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## BLUESMAN (Nov 4, 2003)

*First!*

Screw the back seat, leave it in the garage when you don't need it; it pops right out.

Second: front speakers, I replaced the originals with boston acoustics, they sucked and cost big bucks! Replaced them with Polks = Great!!! But the truth is the spade connectors on any of the speakers seem to vibrate loose and fall off = no sound or static. Solution crimp them with pliers!

opcorn:


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## Hurricane44 (Aug 16, 2006)

I used to install car stereo/video for a major electronics company and *Bluesman* is exactly correct, crimp the spade connectors onto the speaker and it should be fine. If not, then you may need to rewire the front speakers (which is also very easy in these vehicles).

On another note, my '00 XJ has an issue with the front right window switch not working. A friend of mine says its the same on his XJ, does anyone else have this problem and/or know of the fix? I thought of replacing the switch, but would rather not if not necessary . Thanks.

Cane44


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## Railroader (Apr 13, 2005)

The problem with the right window, is in the LEFT side cluster, on the driver's side. There is a solder joint on the circuit board that gets broken very easy, and from what I read, the only cure is to get a new cluster, which will probably break, too.

To test and see if this is your problem, try pressing and pulling on the left side knobs, while watching the little green light in the right side window knob. Some pressure somewhere should light it up. Mine works when you push the window lock button to the right... 

It's a minor inconvenience, and not worth the 150 bucks for a new cluster. 

If a passenger wants the window down, I roll it down from my side...


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## BubbaBlue (May 11, 2004)

BLUESMAN said:


> Screw the back seat, leave it in the garage when you don't need it; it pops right out.


 
I came to the same conclusion. Yesterday morning mine found a new home... up in the attic in a big zippy bag.  

Don't have the speaker/window switch issue... yet. Don't care for the OEM rear speakers though. Tried changing them out, but haven't found any I like yet. Don't think the OEM amp has enough umpf.  Front sounds good. '00 Sport.
.


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## BLUESMAN (Nov 4, 2003)

*A note on speakers.*

I learned the expensive way. There are 4 ohm speakers and 8 ohm speakers. One is easy to "push" and the other is hard to "push". Seems like the popular, expensive speakers are hard to push. Someone with technical expertise please jump in here and explain what I'm trying to say.
Anyway the more expensive speakers usually require an amp or a head unit with more watts.
Research before you buy any speakers.

Believe it or not the sound bar in the Rubicon is superior to the aftermarket speakers I put in the back of the XJ. The moral may be buy a car with an upgraded sound system or pay for it later.
opcorn:


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## Hurricane44 (Aug 16, 2006)

Bluesman, to my knowledge (over 3 years experience in car stereo/video) OEM speakers for vehicles without an amp should always be 4 ohms and thus should always be replaced with 4 ohm speakers. Most replacement interior speakers are 4 ohms and should simply plug in where the OEMs were, without any head unit or amp upgrade. If the stock head unit has a speaker channel go bad then you'll have to replace the head unit, but not necessarily the speakers. Most after-market head units are rated from 65-90 watts per channel which is plenty for any 4 ohm stock/replacement speaker.

Now if you happen to get an 8 ohm speaker there are ways to trick the radio into thinking you have 4 ohm speakers by wiring the speakers in parallel, but you'll usually lose the ability to fade front to back or side to side. Subwoofers (8"-15" subs are similar in this manner, in that you can trick an amp into thinking it has fewer/more subs based on the way it is wired up (parallel/series) and the type of amp you have pushing the subs). _One is easy to "push" and the other is hard to "push"._ The 8 ohm speakers need less power to move the woofer/cone so a regular head unit will usually destroy/distort the 8 ohm speakers beyond usage since it is designed for 4 ohm resistance. Rule of thumb, if you don't want to spend a ton of money with amps etc., replace the interior speakers with 4 ohm replacements/upgrades and if you need to upgrade the head unit, get one designed for 4 ohm speakers @ 60-90 watts/channel.


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## BLUESMAN (Nov 4, 2003)

*See*

Sound, knowledgable advice!
opcorn:


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## BubbaBlue (May 11, 2004)

Just realized the last few speaker posts may have been directed at me?

I did replace the OEM rear speakers with 4ohm versions. Mid grade with bigger magnets. Still sounds like it needs more umpf. Very little bass or treble response. Think listening through a paper towel tube. Just on the rear though. Front are ok. May replace the stereo someday but it's down on my priority list. Still spending and tweaking the Jeep for the sand and the front speakers sound good enough to get me by.
.


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