# So what do I do now????



## chumrunner (Nov 6, 2007)

Well, I just put a coat of finish over the base of my tiger wrap, and it is totally F.U.B.A.R  I mixed the two parts equally, mixed for a few minutes, let it sit for a few and mixed again. I poured it out on a piece of foil, an by the time I put the brush in to start applying, it was already the consistency of taffy. Total time between mixing and loading my brush was about 10 min. Shouldn't it have a working time of at least an hour or so if it sets in 4?

I was able to heat it up gently with a heat gun which made it spreadable. I got an even coat on the front of the wrap, but by the time I got to the tiger wrap, it was hard and clumpy :--| Needless to say the finish is crap on that section. Is there any way to remove that section and start over? If so should I let it harden before attempting to remove it?

If possible I would like to save the good part and just cut out the bad.

As far as the finish I now know it's crap. Should have gone with threadmaster. Did I do it wrong or is it just bad finish.

Sorry about all the questions but I'm pretty pissed that I ruined a good wrap.


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## skunk king (Mar 25, 2008)

what was the temperature? May have been too cool. I would continue with the heat gun and try to level it out. That's saved my butt multiple times.


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## bstarling (Apr 24, 2005)

chumrunner said:


> Well, I just put a coat of finish over the base of my tiger wrap, and it is totally F.U.B.A.R  I mixed the two parts equally, mixed for a few minutes, let it sit for a few and mixed again. I poured it out on a piece of foil, an by the time I put the brush in to start applying, it was already the consistency of taffy. Total time between mixing and loading my brush was about 10 min. Shouldn't it have a working time of at least an hour or so if it sets in 4?
> 
> I was able to heat it up gently with a heat gun which made it spreadable. I got an even coat on the front of the wrap, but by the time I got to the tiger wrap, it was hard and clumpy :--| Needless to say the finish is crap on that section. Is there any way to remove that section and start over? If so should I let it harden before attempting to remove it?
> 
> ...


Were you using Flex Coat by chance? I had a similar experience with FC and then it turned shitty yellow after it hardened.

Bill:fishing:


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## chumrunner (Nov 6, 2007)

I think it was probably a combination of low temp and short potlife of high build finish. I (genius that I am) decided to finish my wrap on the coldest day this winter. I was also probably too slow in applying it. The finish (Gudebrod High build) didn't specify the potlife, so I didn't realize I only had 30 min.

I will probably end up getting some threadmaster lite build. It looks a little more forgiving than high build. I sure wouldn't mind doing more than one coat if it means it will actually work.


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## basstardo (Jun 5, 2006)

TM Lite is great stuff. Never had any experiene with the Gudebrod stuff, so I can't say much about that. I have an extra heater in the room I work in now, but I also will put the bottles of finish in a warm area (sunlight, lamp area, etc) where they get a little bit warmer than room temp. May not be necessary, but I also haven't had any finish problems yet other than user error.


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## Mark G (Nov 15, 2004)

TM Lite is my go to finish now. It does help to make sure the bottles are warm prior to mixing. I stick them in front of the small heater for a few minutes prior to mixing.

I have patched over some bad finishes before, but it may be better to just start over. By all means removing the finish before it completely hardens ( 5days or so, is easier than waiting. ) Unfortunately with a tiger wrap, that usually means starting over from the beginning- it will be most likely impossible to remove the top coat by itself.

Unless your using small bottles and going thru finish fast- I wouldn't set them in the sun for warming purposes- THe UV rays from the sun can add to the yellowing effect on some finishes- it is best to store finish out of sunlight. 

Some use the microwave to warm finish, but I haven't tried that- some just stick the bottles in a pant or shirt pocket while they are waiting- but that can be messy if you have any finish that dripped out on the outside of the containers from the last mixing.

TM Lite has decent potlife- 30 minutes or so- most high builds only have about half that time, sometimes less- you need to work with a little "urgency" when applying high build.


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## Mark G (Nov 15, 2004)

> Total time between mixing and loading my brush was about 10 min. Shouldn't it have a working time of at least an hour or so if it sets in 4?


Not at all- you should be thinking about 10-15 minutes for high build- from start of mixing to having finished putting it on the rod. This is what I mean by working with a little "urgency" 

THe stuff starts to set up as soon as the two parts contact each other- so even tho it needs to be mixed thoroughly- stirring for more than a couple of minutes is going to eat into the potlife- stir for 2 minutes- let it sit for maybe one minute after spreading it out to let bubbles dissipate- then get it on the rod ASAP.


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