# 0 and 180



## outfishin28 (Jul 15, 2005)

hey fellas it's been a while, got a quick question.

anyone have a good way of finding the 0 and 180 degree axis on a blank? Aside from buying the tool from mudhole for 30 bucks or buying a router to make the same tool as they sell, anyone have a good way to make one, cross wraps become difficult in my opinion without knowing where 0 and 180 are.


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## eric (Oct 24, 2007)

they have a paper circle for spiral wraps you can use.
i forgot the name of it but its definitely searching able.
the circle is cutout. slips onto blank and tells you degrees.


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## Charlie2 (May 2, 2007)

*Spining a Rod*

Rather than my telling you how, do a Google and there's several videos showing how to find a spine which do not involve any fancy equipment. 

Spining a rod is a controversial subject. Some supposedly knowledgeable people say that it isn't important but it is. Even a spiral wrapped rod will torque on the cast if not properly spined. C2


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## Deezul (Jan 30, 2008)

I have used a piece of masking tape---put a piece on the blank---trim both ends so that they butt up tight and flush---carefully remove the tape---measure it and mark the center---reinstall at the same place and you have a 0 and a 180 mark.


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## Elkhunter (Jun 18, 2004)

I use a Circle Template. One like you used in school. Many different sizes on the sheet. I use an overhead light that runs down the blank from the reel seat and center based on it. There are marks all around teh circle template and I mark accordingly. You can get these at Wal-Mart in the school supply section.


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## Billy 40 (Jan 11, 2010)

I'm a big fan of using the eyeball. 

I have a Clemens lathe which has an indexing pin, this allows me to set teh rod with teh reel seat facing perfectly up, I lock teh blank in teh chuck, and use a ruler as a straightedge as I make my marks. ROtate the rod 180 degree, lock the indexing pin and repeat. After I mark teh points, I sight down teh blank and make sure teh points are all striaght. I also do this after teh first pass of thread has been laid down.


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## outfishin28 (Jul 15, 2005)

Just did a cross wrap on what I thought were the 0 and 180 axises, once the wrap was finished, I put a reel on the rod and the chevron crosses were to the left, like 1/4 - 3/8 of an inch to the left. Any ideas?


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## Billy 40 (Jan 11, 2010)

Be more careful and dont' screw up. THat's not meant to be a DH comment, but it is what you need to do.


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## outfishin28 (Jul 15, 2005)

when spiraling the thread down the rod, I can not seem to keep the threads spaced evenly apart, the wraps are tight and look good, the symmetry is off. And thanks in advance for the help, there was not a DH thing about that previous comment, especially since it is true.


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## Billy 40 (Jan 11, 2010)

If you are wandering off while wrapping - make sure when you start (right after teh layout and first couple of passes) that everthign is perfectly straight. Sight down the blank and look and make sure it's straight, if not move teh threads so they are straight. 

Sean Endres, who is an amazing Dec Wrapper, wil draw a straight line down teh blank with a silver sharpie before he starts. He uses this as a guideline to make sure the pattern stars straight as he is working on it. His work is flawless, and 100% straight every single time. My stuff does tend to wander off a drop, but you really have to look to see.


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## Hudak (Sep 10, 2007)

opcorn:


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## outfishin28 (Jul 15, 2005)

Thanks for the help, I will try that on the next one. This one ended up being a 3 color tiger after I got frustrated cutting it off three times. I will practice on a wooden dowel a few times before the next build.


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## Billcollector (Oct 15, 2009)

What I do is take a architect templet that has all different size holes in it. I slide that down the blank to the point directly infornt of the grip or reel seat and make a mark at 0 and 180 with the two marks on either side of the templet with a straight dental pick. Then I go to the point where I want the wrap to stop and do the same. I then take the circumfarance of the blank and make my marks accordingly on the blank with a straight edge between the marks. It has worked good for me so far.


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## outfishin28 (Jul 15, 2005)

that is a great idea, where could I get one of those? Office max or something?


Here is what it looked like up until the point I cut it off. I was happy with it and going to leave it as was, but it was crooked as a dog's hind leg.

<a href="http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k129/outfishin28/?action=view&current=chevrons.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k129/outfishin28/chevrons.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


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## Billcollector (Oct 15, 2009)

You should be able to get them there or at a art supply store.


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## Fishinbuddy (Mar 11, 2009)

I am with Billy on this. When you only have a few threads laid down you can move them wherever you want them pretty much. Your eyeballs are the best two tools you have as a rodbuilder.


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## Tacpayne (Dec 20, 2008)

Another good way to use your eyes is with a overhead light. The reflection on the blank will be straight. you can line up your wrap with the reflection of teh light. Then look down the blank to tweek it


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## kingfish (Feb 28, 2004)

If I ever made a wrap that pretty i would coat it, not strip it......


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## outfishin28 (Jul 15, 2005)

thanks kingfish, I'll holler at you in a few weeks, I will be moving back, and need to do some fishing to ease the stress of the move.


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## Mark G (Nov 15, 2004)

finding 0 and 180 is the first part-- laying out the crossover points for each first pair of threads is also important-- even after doing that-- I use a businees card with the crossover distance marked on it and slide it up the rod to check the first few threads as I lay them down.

Get the first few right-- and the rest will follow as long as you are consistent with your pattern lay out. For those that haven't tried it yet, visual wrap makes easy work of calculating the set up and cross over points-- and even takes into account the rod taper for you.

I guess in short what I am saying is -- the distance needs to be precise the entire revolution of the rod, not just 0 and 180, if the pattern wavers in and out of target at 90 and 270 or anywhere else, it will eventually look "crooked".
With the business card in hand, and (assuming equadistant crossovers) it is easy to lay down one thread, and then hold the business card down with the pattern distance on it and walk the card up the rod as you spiral the rod slowly, checking to make sure that the first thread or two stayed on target.

Hope that makes sense-- it's easier to demonstrate than explain in writing.

If the pattern still gets off after an intial good lay out of the first threads-- it's likely that you are "pushing" the entire pattern around as you lay and pack new threads down.


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## junkmansj (Jul 23, 2005)

http://www.acidrod.com/files/degreewheel_wInstructions.pdf

Try this! Copy and print on Heavy Photo Paper


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