# Using WD40 On Ferrules?



## Scuba Chris (Jun 17, 2017)

I have a 13'3" Daiwa Ballistic (ist Gen) that is a 3-pc. I tried Ferrule Wax (beeswax w/mineral oil) but it still locks-up. Now i lightly spray WD40 on the ferrule tips and not only does it stay in 1 piece without the 3-parts rotating but it separates nicely as well. Of course i wipe the residue off before bundling the parts together. I'm worried about the long term effects, if any? Are there?


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## Don B (Jul 28, 2001)

Are the ferrules bare or painted?

If painted, candle wax works. Be sure to clean the ferrules prior to applying the candle wax.


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## dsurf (Aug 5, 2003)

The only WD40 you should use for that is the Dirt and Dust Resistant Dry Lube, PTFE spray, specialist formula.


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## spydermn (Apr 26, 2009)

Maybe some graphite? Never had a sticking issue except when things got dirty. Soap and water = no more issues


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## NC KingFisher (Nov 20, 2011)

Rub it on the side of your nose when assembling


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## Don B (Jul 28, 2001)

NC KingFisher said:


> Rub it on the side of your nose when assembling


That's an interesting visual.

"I have a 13'3" Daiwa Ballistic (ist Gen) that is a 3-pc."

I do not believe Scuba Chris has a nose big enough to do the job.


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## Tommy (Jan 24, 2001)

Is the joint fit too tight? If so, the fix is to take FINE grit sandpaper (300-400 grit) and sand the male side of the joint. Wrap the paper around the male side, use even pressure and make a FEW strokes using a rotating motion. After a few (start with 2-3) strokes, wipe down with a rag and check fit. It is ok to use wd40 on the rag to ensure the joint is clean and all carbon residue is gone. Repeat as needed checking fit every few strokes until perfect then STOP. 

DO NOT OVERSAND.

Tommy


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## Scuba Chris (Jun 17, 2017)

Don B said:


> Are the ferrules bare or painted?
> 
> If painted, candle wax works. Be sure to clean the ferrules prior to applying the candle wax.


I mentioned i used Ferrule Wax which is bee's wax mixed with mineral oil. Still locks up. It's a $500 3-piecer, it has to be tight because it's in 3 pieces. Others in Hawaii have the same problem. Sanding will help ease the locking problem but the pieces will rotate after a huge hit. So far for over 6-months the WD40 has been working. Just worried about long time usage.


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## Don B (Jul 28, 2001)

So, is the ferrule sleeved with the male section painted?

If it is painted, candle wax is the standard fix. Or, you could use auto paste wax and wax you whole rod annually. 

dsurf's recommendation is probably a good one.
"The only WD40 you should use for that is the Dirt and Dust Resistant Dry Lube, PTFE spray, specialist formula. "

I am not sure of today's composition of WD 40. At one time LPS -1 was recommended as an alternative to WD 40 for fishing reels. WD 40 left a residue on the reel and damaged the line.

http://www.nkbaxter.com/Penetrating-Oils.php
Under LPS-1 it states " Safe on paint and most plastics"

You may also want to check out B'laster Silicone Lubricant
http://blastercorp.com/Silicone-Lube

"i wipe the residue off before bundling the parts together. "
Do you also clean the inside of the ferrule where it may be bare graphite?


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## js1172 (Jun 5, 2012)

I wet mine with fresh water before putting it together, helps tremendously. My guess is petroleum distillates would not be good for carbon fiber/fiberglass nor any other man made material over the long run.
js


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## DANtheJDMan (Aug 29, 2012)

The first time I went to Texas and stayed two weeks the rods were put together and stayed together for almost the whole two weeks. 

The day came to pack everything up and SH8T my ballistic would not come apart. 

Did some searching and found the two people four hands thing and got all but one apart. 

Then found the YELLOW kitchen glove trick and it works every time. 

Just get some yellow kitchen gloves, and I don't even put them on, (hard to get them big enough) just wrap it around both sides and you have the grip of super man. 

I wash all the rods after they are apart with soap and water especially the inside and the outside of the joints. 

DAN


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## Scuba Chris (Jun 17, 2017)

I contacted Daiwa & they said for that model it's ok to use WD40. Thanks everyone.


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## Benji (Nov 19, 2014)

NC KingFisher said:


> Rub it on the side of your nose when assembling


seen my dad use nose "grease" to remove a scratch in a negative when he was a photographer. Versatile stuff.


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## mbg60 (May 11, 2008)

Daiwa Ballistic ferrules are not painted. 

No disrespect Tommy, but you shouldn't sand ferrules. If you can cast like Tommy your pieces will fly out, if you sand them. 

If they're really giving you a problem contact Daiwa and send them in. Ballisitics have a limited lifetime warranty. 

Did you buy the rods brand new? If not, maybe the pieces are mismatched,...easy to do as only the butt section has ratings markings on them. I have 6 Ballistics and I make sure each is marked with separate colored reflective tape so I don't mix up the top two sections with any other rods. wouldn't want to cross a 33 with a 40. 

If you got them new, they might just need a good cleaning, female sections too.


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## drmaddogs2 (Aug 18, 2017)

I might suggest that a lot of candle waxes(the cheap stuffs) are made from paraffin's from oil wells('natural solvents'), or from pig fats.. perhaps a bees wax might just bee a little better.. but all waxes dry out over time and possibly making a tight situation much tighter in a decade of use.


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## Tommy (Jan 24, 2001)

Good suggestions here,

I will state this again, If the fit is too tight (to the point of sticking together) the fix is simple. Fine grit sandpaper a few swipes at a time. I handle HUNDREDS of rods every year and check the joint fit on each of them. Most are good from the factory but occasionally (especially parallel butt rods that the tip inserts into the butt) you get one that is just too tight. A few strokes, CHECK FIT, repeat as needed.

You can even wet sand it if you want.

Your mileage may vary...

Tommy


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## william1 (Nov 30, 2003)

went to the bike shop asked for some throw away tire tubes. I wrap them around both sections, mine always stick ,I'm very anal about tight ferrules when fishing. Never have a problem separating them with the inner tubes.


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## js1172 (Jun 5, 2012)

get your wife kitchen gloves that are holy or worn out, cut 4"'s off the cuffs, use those for a gripper, they will come apart fine. I have a cheap sabiki rod that the ferule slips 6" or so into the handle, it was a beast to get apart even if lubed with vegetable oil, comes apart much easier with the glove "grippers"
js


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## BPReeds (Jan 11, 2013)

I used the sanding method....it did the trick...but the joint loosened up a little too much....over time ,and now I use the candle to correct that....but its fine......also don't like the idea of using all that force on expensive rods trying to get them apart...


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