# First attempt at a cross wrap



## gilly21 (Feb 15, 2006)

Might not be the prettiest but I can only get better from here I guess


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## WALT D. (Dec 18, 2003)

looks like a great start to me!


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## bstarling (Apr 24, 2005)

Looks good to me. I hope you have better luck with the Flex Coat than I did. Bubbles and friggin yellow. I still haven't gotten over it!:--|

Bill:fishing:


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## gilly21 (Feb 15, 2006)

I am using U-40. It goes on fairly clear so we'll see how it holds up.


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## RuddeDogg (Mar 20, 2004)

looks good.


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## Finger_Mullet (Aug 19, 2005)

*Bubbles and Yellow*

Bill, You still bitchin about that? The rod looked decent to me. I will take it if you want to part with it.

Darin


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## outfishin28 (Jul 15, 2005)

looks pretty [email protected]^* good to me.


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## bstarling (Apr 24, 2005)

Finger_Mullet said:


> Bill, You still bitchin about that? The rod looked decent to me. I will take it if you want to part with it.
> 
> Darin


OK, I'll trade tips with you!!

Bill:fishing:


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## skunk king (Mar 25, 2008)

great job!


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## skunk king (Mar 25, 2008)

bstarling said:


> Looks good to me. I hope you have better luck with the Flex Coat than I did. Bubbles and friggin yellow. I still haven't gotten over it!:--|
> 
> Bill:fishing:


I'm not a fan of flex coat either because I had the same issues. I've gotten the best results with Lamar ThreadMaster. I use the lite formula most of the time except on heavers were I'll use the high build. I've had minor bubble issues with it, but they can be worked out by heating the aluminum foil tray and blowing on it while mixing. It cures incredibly clear and I haven't had any issues with it yellowing or cracking. The lite formula is a breeze to work with because it sets up well and has a long pot life. I can finish a 13 foot rod with 10 guides in 2 pots excluding long butt wraps requiring a bunch of finish. I mix it 12 CCs at a time(6 of resin and hardner each). I would even attempt that with the high build, I create 6 CC batches with that at most and that's just for butt wraps. 4 or 5 CCs most of the time. 


Tangent comment: I don't use brushes to apply finish anymore like most videos and books instruct you. Instead, I spread the finish with a spatula or pop sickle, usually the same one I mixed the pot with. It goes on much smoother and faster using this technique. I picked this and many other tips up in the instructional sessions at the international rod builders show. The next one is coming up Feb. 21 and 22. I learned a ton there. 

The International Custom Rod Building Exposition


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## bstarling (Apr 24, 2005)

Thanks for the info, Skunk. I went to the expo last year, but didn't have time to do any of the workshops. I maybe able to get there this year.

Bill:fishing:


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## Finger_Mullet (Aug 19, 2005)

*Trading tips*

Bill,

I think I will keep mine. Ryan did an awesome job!!!

Darin


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## Ryan Y (Dec 1, 2005)

*Rod*



Finger_Mullet said:


> Bill,
> 
> I think I will keep mine. Ryan did an awesome job!!!
> 
> Darin


I hope its still holding up for you Darin. Along with Danny's. How is his?


Nice work Steve. I Didn't know you were building now too.


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## Rockfish1 (Apr 8, 2005)

looks good Bro... may have to give you a blank or 2 to work on...  I'm liking those colors...


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## Finger_Mullet (Aug 19, 2005)

*Rd*

Ryan,

Mine is fine. I have only fished with it twice. I hope 2009 brings more surf fishing.

Darin


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## gilly21 (Feb 15, 2006)

Firespyder7 said:


> I hope its still holding up for you Darin. Along with Danny's. How is his?
> 
> 
> Nice work Steve. I Didn't know you were building now too.



Yea buddy! Been trying to get into it for over a year now but family situations held up the progress. Now I have a nearly 16' bench on my bonus room to get it working in my favor. 

Just finished the tip section with the guides and think it came out OK. I can tell I am going to be one anal bastard witht his stuff because I dang near cut everything off and re did it because of some minor imperfections. Figured I had better get coat of epoxy on it quick or it would never get finished.


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## Ryan Y (Dec 1, 2005)

I know how that is. I cut stuff back off a lot it seems. Give me a call if you ever have any questions.


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## Drumboy (Jan 25, 2008)

Gilly, I have been trying to find the thread like the orange and yellow you have in the picture. Noticed you have some where did you find it at? I saw that the NERBS have some thread like it, but not sure about it.


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## gilly21 (Feb 15, 2006)

Drumboy said:


> Gilly, I have been trying to find the thread like the orange and yellow you have in the picture. Noticed you have some where did you find it at? I saw that the NERBS have some thread like it, but not sure about it.


Funny you ask. There is a sewing shop in a mall not far from me where I picked it up. THey had the spools on sale buy 2 get on free and they were 5.99 ea. Something like 500 yards or so. They are similar to size "A" thread. I can pick you up a spool if you want and catch up to you at the HP show or send it to you in the mail. I got it because my wife is a Jimmy Johnson fan and it matches some of his old paint. Bright yellow with a tint of green in it.

Also the sewing shop sells Sulky and Mederia threads. A quik tip about thread is to check out Johann Fabric.


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## Drumboy (Jan 25, 2008)

Thnx Gilly funny thing is that I was just in Johann fabric store today and picked up some of the yellow to see if it would work. Picked up a junk rod wrapped about 4 in then colored preserved and the color just died. You could tell that it was not rod building thread. Have you put the metallic sulky on a rod yet? When i was in there i recognized the name so i looked at it and it didn't seem like it would hold up very well .thnx for the info


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## gilly21 (Feb 15, 2006)

I have tried the yellow I have with CP and it looks ok. It is on a navy blue underwrap. I have not tried the sulky yet but it seems like it should be OK. I don't expect the threads to look exactly the way they do on the spool when finished so that may be the difference.


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## Ryan Y (Dec 1, 2005)

I got to say be careful with the sewing shop threads as they may have waxes and chemicals to keep them water resistant. With that stuff on them they will not allow your Rod fisnish to bond or soak into the threads. It can make your finish peel off pretty easily, and make for a messy, bad day.


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## gilly21 (Feb 15, 2006)

Firespyder7 said:


> I got to say be careful with the sewing shop threads as they may have waxes and chemicals to keep them water resistant. With that stuff on them they will not allow your Rod fisnish to bond or soak into the threads. It can make your finish peel off pretty easily, and make for a messy, bad day.


Thanks for the tip Ryan. I did check them out before picking them up. Label says 100% poly which is the same thing Mederia is so they seem ok for now. I have tested a couple of them to see if there was any adverse reaction. I do know what you are taking about though. When you hold the spools side by side to the "preserved" threads you can see the difference.


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## Drumboy (Jan 25, 2008)

Gilly me either on the thread color staying the same. I expect a change every time except on metallic. I think I'm going to order some of the NERBS thread. Has anybody tried it??


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## gilly21 (Feb 15, 2006)

Finished up.


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## Rockfish1 (Apr 8, 2005)

lookin good...


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## Drumboy (Jan 25, 2008)

Turned out very, very well. I like the guide wraps great color combinations


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