# Would like some input...



## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

Looking to buy:
2000 Cherokee Sport
70K mi.
2"-3" lift (not sure but it is lifted)
running on 265/75's - will need to be replaced
K&N air in-take system
Wiring/hoses look clean and in good shape
Body/paint is in good shape
Underside/interior look good
Notice some fluid on the front sway bar/axle coming from above...might be power steering fluid?
Pin hole by inlet on muffler near bottom - guy said it was a weep hole?

Noticed the front tires when turned to maximum left or right appear to be rubbing on a bar going to front suspension - not familiar with these vehicles so I don't know what it is called or alot about them. Is this fixable?

Luckily I got to look at vehicle before any service has been done to it so I can see the leaks/tire rubbings and such.

Party is asking $7995. Do you think this is a decent price for the vehicle? I only want to use it to drive the several hundred miles to and from and on the beach fishing.

I have read the post on here about these vehicles and problems and such and was wondering what everyone/anyone thought about this particular vehicle? Worth it?

BTW, I drove the vehicle, on the street and it seemed to run fine. Tires stuck to the ground w/o alot of bouncing when hitting bumps and such. Front end seemed to be tight with no noticible steering vibration or wandering. I don't think the vehicle really saw any off-road use from the looks of the underside.


DMS #525
OBPA


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## Hannibal (Aug 10, 2007)

First off check the KBB.com and NADA.com sites to determine a fair value of the car. Modifications don't add any sale value to the car typically - but can have some value to those looking for specific additions. IE - go fast parts don't add value to the car, however, may persuade someone to pay a higher value if they are looking for a modified go-fast car. 

Also, ask the seller if they'd be willing to have it inspected. If you state that you'd be willing to buy upon a satisfactory state inspection - he may be willing to do it. And it would identify any real issues. 

Replacing tires of that size can be pricey.

The weep hole is a non-issue. Even if a small hole is in the muffler is fine - would just be a noise issue if anything. If you have forced emmision inspections - your Jeep, being a 2000 should pass since they simply plug into the OBDII ports now versus the old "sniff" test. 

I would check the fluid issue just to be safe. Most likely no issues but would put your mind at ease. See where it's coming from. 

If it drives fine and feels tight, that should be the most telling thing for you.

As for the Jeep Cherokee's themselves, I love them. Had a 89 that I drove til it blew up (literally caught the catalytic convertor on fire). She was good to me and took a hell of a beating in her life.


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## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

Thanks Hannibal. Did the KBB/NDA stuff..

NADA - clean History $7825/High retail $8759/Low retail $6550

KBB - Excelent $7355 to Good $7000

So I am thinking if I offer $7000 that might not be too bad. I know the mods don't add anything to value except they would save me the trouble and money.

The tires I know are a pain. I am running them on my Ram 1500 and cost me over $500. I do have a problem with the tires rubbing when turned all the way left or right. It looks to be a back spacing issue. I may be able to get a few more bucks knocked off due to that. Not sure but, the tire issue will have to be addressed. 

As far as inspections go, it was just inspected in Feb. of this year so it would be okay for the year.
It was interesting that the dealer said he hadn't even had time to prep it yet..clean/degrease the engine and stuff. I told him well that was good, I can see what it looks like as it is and if there are any apparent leaks. Not sure he liked that though 

BTW, it has a short OEM roof rack. Can I have a longer, full roof length OEM rack installed or is this something I'd have to ask a OEM supplier about? Those surf rods can be a little long even if broekn down. I don't need 4' of rod bouncing around over the hood.


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## mdram (Jul 18, 2005)

sounds like a power stearing or steering box leak.

the rubbing is most likley caused by the tires.
2 ways to fix i can think of
go back to stock
get different rims with different back spacing, but this will cause them to stick out further

does it have the 4.9 I-6? thats a stout engine


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## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

Steering box was my first thought too md. 

Not sure if going back to stock is the way I'd go. With the lift, stock my not look all that great but, I am sure it would fix the problem. Then again it beats using spacers. 

As for the engine, I am not sure exactly which it has in it. Just a quick look and the standard 4.0L 6cyl. I'd like to get a better look at the diffs also to see what it is turning. All in all though it looked and seemed to drive okay. 

Of course, like everyone says...buying a used vehicle is like buying a used house, you get some one else's problems


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## BubbaBlue (May 11, 2004)

Can't help you on the mechanical condition of the one you're looking at, but as a vehicle in general, it's a good one.

I have an 2001 Sport and I love it. It's real happy on the sand.

Get it checked out good and inspected.

If you end up getting it, carrying the rods isn't really a problem. I carry mine on top and inside depending on the situation.
.


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## Mullet Breath (Nov 15, 2006)

Fluid could be several things in that location.

Tire rubbing is definately due to the size of tire you said is on it, non issue unless it bothers you and can easily be fixed.

The price is decent, but I'd go no more than 7k myself.

I was going to lift but went with HD rear leafsprings from Quadratech and new shocks, and am very happy with the results. I've got 154,000 on mine with only a water pump and powersteering pump replacemant.

Check out this pagehttp://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26256 for tons of detail on stock information, and the forum has tons of infor on XJs.


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## basstardo (Jun 5, 2006)

The bar that's it rubbing is probably the sway bar. Get it out and drive it more and make sure the trans is OK. These are notorius for tranny problems. I have two of them, a 95 and a 2000. The 4.0 I-6 is a great motor though. The 95 has 217K on it and it still runs strong and handles the beach very well.

PS...Get it up to highway speeds so you make sure it doesn't have the death wobble problem that a lot of the lifted Cherokee's have.


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## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

Thanks for the feedback guys! 
Bubba, I have a Rodloft pro in my Ram that will work inside. Was just wanting something for the lid but what I have would work. 

Mullet, I figured I could get away with the tire rub until I really needed to get a new set of tires. Then I'll have to dig for some more info and find out exactly what I need. I'm hoping to maybe get'em to knock a few $$ off for that condition. He knew I wasn't happy with the tires on there 

I signed up for that forum this morning. I was poking around there trying to get some info. The link you provided was perfect for what I was looking for! Thanks ever so much!

Bass, thats exactly what I need to do as soon as I can get back there again. Since most of the driving will be getting to anf from the beach via highway, I need to know there isn't a problem like that. At up to 46mph or so, it seemed to be okay. My Ram has a vibration that is felt throughout the whole vehicle from between 63mph and 71mph. Not a "death wobble" though thank goodness. I have had it 11yrs. and no one seems to be able to find the problem LoL I just live with it. Not sure, it may have something to do with the driver's side front tire coming off one time while doing 75mph on the highway 

Very much appreciate the input guys!!


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## BubbaBlue (May 11, 2004)

scavengerj said:


> Thanks for the feedback guys!
> Bubba, I have a Rodloft pro in my Ram that will work inside. Was just wanting something for the lid but what I have would work.


Yup, I have a jury rigged Rodloft inside. Outside, see this thread:

http://www.pierandsurf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34035&highlight=yakima&page=2
.


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## Rocks&Reds (Mar 15, 2007)

scavengerj said:


> Thanks for the feedback guys!
> Bubba, I have a Rodloft pro in my Ram that will work inside. Was just wanting something for the lid but what I have would work.
> 
> Mullet, I figured I could get away with the tire rub until I really needed to get a new set of tires. Then I'll have to dig for some more info and find out exactly what I need. I'm hoping to maybe get'em to knock a few $$ off for that condition. He knew I wasn't happy with the tires on there
> ...


Whats up, the tire rub I wouldn't worry about, my old truck done it for 3yrs never hurt the tires just causes people to look at you funny in parking lots

Are you fishing the tournament next weekend?

Chris


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## Mullet Breath (Nov 15, 2006)

If you do buy it and want to put a receiver on the front for a rack go with Rustys offroad front receiver. It's cheap bullet proof, comes with new tow hooks and takes about an hour and a half to install including repouring a glass or two of capt. and ginger. Not to mention it ties your frame together giving you a better setup to be pulled from the front if you need it. I have used Yakima snowboard racks from ebay on top that ran 30 with shipping and cheap expandable clothesrods from the dollar store with Berkely rod holders mounted to them inside. And a rack on the front and rear to tote my crap with me. Bubba and I have similar setups, exept Bubba seems more organized than me, my chit is just in piles from the last trip no matter how much I clean and organize it's just not pretty, it works perfect for me though. If you're good at tinkering and have some tools Jeepforum and some PB blaster will keep your mess running for a long time with lower maintenance than you think if you stay on top it. Score some pics and upload em if you get it.


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## Woodchuck (Jan 5, 2005)

I got the JCRoffroad stage 2 front bumper and the tie in plates. If ever needed I feel very confident that this would hold up to any amount of pulling. Only use it has had is holding my OBPA and NCBBA plates. For accessories I got 2 - ¾” D rings, painted them red and installed them. I was happy with the quality, fit and ease of installation. It comes unpainted and ready to prime, not a biggie a couple cans of primer and flat black did the trick. I did have to ream out one hole in the unibody frame on each side, sheet metal partially blocked it but the plate holes lined up perfectly. And as always… get out the PB and go at it a week before you plan on doing anything!

Rusty’s must have been an easier install, I recall mine taking 4 or 5 drinks to accomplish. That doesn’t include the sipping while painting.


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## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

Going to look at it again tonight. I guess they "looked" at it and "cleaned" things up a bit since it is now in the front of the lot. I want to get it on the hwy and see how it drives tonight and then look at everything again. I'm still a little concerned about the leak up around the covers. If there even was one. I should have looked at the oil and coolant before they "cleaned" it up. I know the heads are somewhat prone to cracks for this year as I have read on the jeep forum. The people who sold it had it for two years. I don't know if they kept up on regular service or not. Supposedly it was a local husband and wife who had it and the wife was the primary driver. I think $7K cash might be an offer the dealer would take. 90day/3,000 warranty with it. I drive 500mi. a week, mostly heavy hwy, so I would think if I were going to have any problems I would know within a week or two. I guess my best bet would be to find out what is "NOT" covered by the warranty since there is always a big list of what is covered that you can miss what really isn't covered. 

I do want a front rack mount, so I am going to look at Rustys if I buy this thing. Although, I had thought about a Warn receiver hitch. The type they sell for their receiver mounted winches. This would open up alot of possibilities as far as front mount racks go. 
Since I fish the hard water season too, and have a hut I take with me, the rear seats may be taken out of this thing to make room 

Hi Chris! I am going to be coming down tomorrow. I want to hit OIBT to get my license and permit. I am anticipating fishing the tourney next weekend so I have to register for that aslo tomorrow. Not sure if I am going to hit the beach tomorrow or just the rocks since I don't know how long I am going to be staying down. I do want to make a day out of it, just not till the stars come out 
BTW, I get looked at funny no matter where I am at or no matter what I'm driving to begin with


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## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

Dang Woodchuck!! Those are some sweet looking bumpers at JCR. I'd replace both front and rear with those!


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## Rocks&Reds (Mar 15, 2007)

BTW, I get looked at funny no matter where I am at or no matter what I'm driving to begin with 

Darn you and I are in the same boat then!


Shoot me a PM before the tourny, got some info for ya.:fishing:

Chris


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## channelbass (Feb 4, 2008)

The fluid dripping on your front end is probably one of the two trans cooling lines. They have a hydro-crimped fitting to transition from steel line (like brake lines) to rubber, these fittings are notoriuos for leaking. Easy to fix if you get replacement lines from the junlyard, store bought is pricey. 

Next, your tires rubbing, very common problem after lift kits are installed. You could switch back to stock width, re-adjust your turn stops, not turn the wheel all the way, or get wheel spacers that will put you wheels out a little further so they don't hit the control arms. 

2000 cherokees are great trucks, next to last in line for production of cher. sports. Sounds like a good deal, I'd try knock down the price a hair for cost of repair. Will post some pics and links in a few min to go with above ideas.


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## channelbass (Feb 4, 2008)

So much for resizing the images, oh well. top to bottom, turning stopper can be adjusted, fitting that might be leaking, wheel spacers(kit only has one pair, need two pair for all for tires). 

Also, 4wd.com, rusty's and kilby enterprises. These three places have all the junk you could ever want for a jeep. Hope this helps...


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## rattler (Jul 3, 2004)

is it a frame lift?...sounds like a body lift...changes the center...I have 255/70 16 on my stock explorer...go to EDMONDS.com they are the best out there that I know of and I was in the business...sounds high priced with what you need to put into it...tires will be $700-$1000+ depending on what you want...what ever you do, GOOD LUCK...


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## channelbass (Feb 4, 2008)

uni-body design, no body lift


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## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

Thanks again all. I didn't get to make it there Fri. after work so I am shooting for this evening to get it out on the highway. I was fishing Sat. so I didn't get to go then either 

cb, thanks for the great info! I'll have to take a look at those fittings.

rattler...believe me, I know the cost of tires. Just bought four for the Ram a few months back $665 for the same sized 265s.

My big things are going to be this "leak" thing, how it drives on the highway and if they are willing to settle for 7K..total..taxes,tags and registration. More then that I on the fence.

Chris, I'll send you a PM one evening this week. 


DMS #525
OBPA


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## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

*Well....*

I got it. A few turns of the wrench, a couple of mods/installs and it'll be a full time fishing machine 



















Thanks for the input/feedback/suggestions and links everyone!


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## saltandsand (Nov 29, 2007)

Rubbing tires when turned can be an issue with 4x4 use in tight spaces and parking lots. Can be wrong size rims?


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## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

Not sure SnS. I just think it is the overall width of the tires since it does this even when 4wd isn't engaged. Since it is mostly going to be for beach use, I don't anticipate alot of really tight turns. The few times it does/has happened is enough for me to overlook it.

I would think that if I anticipated any trail riding and such it may be an issue.

To be honest, I don't know what is the cause, just that it can and does happen.

I think I am happy with it though


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## saltandsand (Nov 29, 2007)

My Nissan had 3 inch body and frame lift, put 35 inch tires on it to replace the 33s, had this problem. My rims have an inner offset so that the tires don't hang out past the wheel wells (illegal in Maryland.) When I up sized the tires various factors occurred, the 33 and 35s are the same width. The 35s rubbed, needed to add additional body lift and given Nissan's set up I pulled the tortion bars tighter. No more rub but it was more money for the lift and a pain of a job due to rust, etc. 

I would not underplay this because there may be an inspection issue. Also you'll need cornering with parking lots, etc. It's truly a matter of degree. All I'm saying is you may want to factor in the cost of a repair to raise it, new outer offset rims (if legal), or otherwise. Hate to see you plunk down the bucks and find out later it's gonna cost more than you thought to get it where it needs to be.

Also, raising truck involves several things including: angle of CV's(make sure the truck can be retro set for the CVs) and steering column, shock and suspension clearance, exhaust, wiring and tubing for brakes and other services, etc. Just look at it so you know what you're getting. Not saying one way or other as to whether its a good deal or not. Also looks closely for rust. Mine is an 87, 200,000 miles, runs fairly well, but is a rust bucket and a half, but still a decent truck.

Hope this helps rather than confuse. I'd say talk to a aftermarket 4x4 shop for their insight about the particular truck and tell them how it's tricked out so they can let you know more.


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## Entropy (Mar 9, 2008)

what size are those tires in inches? 2??/75 means nothing to me. >.< if your over 10.50 without enough lift or serious back spacing you WILL be rubbing in the fender wells, NO way around it. the cherokee's only flaw is that it is burdened with amazingling tiny fender wells. i cant tell you how many times ive ripped a fender flair off.

with enough lift and the correct back spacing you should be fine. mine only rub when i disconect my sway bar. (rubicon 4.5" superflex lift, 31x10.50 tires)

if you are interested in replacing your lift let me know, ill be replacing my setup at the end of summer for something much bigger.


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## scavengerj (Sep 10, 2007)

Well the 265/75R16 is a 31" tire. Already has passed inspection. I don't experience any rubbing of the fender wells or fender flares. The only rubbing I have is on the LCA. Of course I haven't flexed it enough yet to see how much, if any contact there may be in those areas. I don't aniticipate any heavy off-road use other then the beach. Yea, I said that before  so the sway bars will stay on (for now).

I had a rice burner running 33"s and 36"s before so I am pretty familiar with body lift/suspension lift probelms/issues. Truck was a tank and I could take it anywhere. Had front and rear posi, regeared Richmond R&P front and rear, 3.5" suspension lift and 2.5" body lift. Enough travel in that so that I could have one front and one rear on the ground and keep moving. Only probs with the set-up was I tore through CV boots and U-joints. Got so I could tear them out, have parts replaced and back on the road in under 2hrs.

I may have to change the lift if I encounter additional problems. Any additional mods aren't too big of a deal for me if they have to be done. I don't know what the backspacing is on the AR wheels so I have to check that. I know I don't want it to be too much.

I'll have to play with it this weekend and see right where everything stands and go from there.

If there isn't something that needs to be fixed or moded on these things, I would think I didn't have an XJ


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## Entropy (Mar 9, 2008)

rubbing on the lower control arms is normal. 31x10.50 is the biggest one can go with my lift and not experience rubbing during normal driving. thats why im not rolling on 35s. lol. but when i unlock the sway bar im still rubbing.

but you can always purchase quick disconects for your front sway bar. they are actually really neat and inexspensive. my rear swab bar has been removed all together with no reprocusions. (no sag at ALL while towing a 21' chriscraft)


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