# making sinker molds



## floridasportsman

I read the post about making pyramid sinkers out of bondo and high heat silicone but what about fiberglass resin. What I was thinking was just mix the resin and hardener in a can and then put the sinker in to form the shape and let it harden. I just want a reliable mold thats not going to burn up after a few uses.


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## SmoothLures

Bondo should last for more sinkers than you need, unless you go through a lot.


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## Charlie2

*Sinker Mold*

You have the technique figured out. When pouring, I use a crosspiece to suspend the 'eye' in the mold.I use Bondo and like the poster says, it will last a long time.

I would think that fiberglass would burn up. Maybe I'm wrong.

I have also used Plaster of Paris for a mold. Just make sure that it's completely cured(dried) before pouring hot lead into it. C2


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## floridasportsman

Thanks guys. I think Ill go with the bondo method, it seems to be the most popular and Ill try the fiberglass just to see what happens and post the results.


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## rattler

Fiberglass fumes will kill you and it will burn. I have no idea about "Bondo". I have seen plaster molds and was told they take 30-60 days to dry. The guy said even a little moisture will boil and may blow it apart. Always do your pouring outside.


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## floridasportsman

Does anyone know of other methods besides bondo and plaster?


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## Fishwander

The only two *reliable* methods other than metal, machined mold forms are the 'bondo' and 'plaster of paris' forms, especially if you want them to last for any appreciable amount of time . Most others will just burn up over time.

Remember , the lead fumes are brain toxic and should be done outdoors , and in a well ventilated area.

Whatever the forms are made out of , they must sustain the temperatures of 730º F ( melting point of lead).

Fishwander


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## Charlie2

rattler said:


> Fiberglass fumes will kill you and it will burn. I have no idea about "Bondo". I have seen plaster molds and was told they take 30-60 days to dry. The guy said even a little moisture will boil and may blow it apart. Always do your pouring outside.


You 'cure' Plaster of Paris molds by baking them in a slow oven for 'awhile'. It doesn't take long. An hour or so will suffice.. C2


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## toejam

for less than $30 you can buy Aluminium mold that will last forever. A lot safer than plaster of Paris which derives it strength from hydrate crystals whose bond can be broken at temp of molten lead alloys, giving off H20. This can be like a little bomb of molten lead... $30 seems cheap.


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## narfpoit

You can use RTV silicone but it would cost more than a regular production mold it is more for making custom molds.


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## MBsandflea

Seems to me just buying a mold, even cheaper off Ebay, would be a better route. Safety being the most important factor, at least one other would be the option to make different weight sinkers with less hassle.


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## Hooked Up

*point*

making ur own because u want something a lil differant then the standard molds offer..........like a 7oz 3 sided offset eye pyrmd


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## ReelKingin

id love to make a mold to be able to make my anchors for king fishing alot easier.

awesome ideas


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## rattler

Charlie2 said:


> You 'cure' Plaster of Paris molds by baking them in a slow oven for 'awhile'. It doesn't take long. An hour or so will suffice.. C2


 I was told a QUICK QURE leaves them subject to breaking. 


ReelKingin said:


> id love to make a mold to be able to make my anchors for king fishing alot easier.
> 
> awesome ideas


The Ebay. They have some strange weights out there. I got a pyrimid, shaped like a pyrimid with an open center and legs at the points. 4 held like an 8.


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## MBsandflea

ReelKingin said:


> id love to make a mold to be able to make my anchors for king fishing alot easier.
> 
> awesome ideas


I make mine, but only one time. It's such a hassle that I make as many as I can at one time, then put everything away and don't bother again.


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## ReelKingin

MBsandflea said:


> I make mine, but only one time. It's such a hassle that I make as many as I can at one time, then put everything away and don't bother again.


same here, i have a wood mold that makes 8 at one time, but im always about bigger and better. so im always thinking of a new way


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## floridasportsman

*re to reelkingin*

Are your molds made entirly out of wood?


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## Charlie2

*Wooden Lead Molds*

There is such a thing! I saw many of them when I was young(whenever that was) before the days of Plaster of Paris and Bondo. I have also seen sand molds.

I'm not sure about what kind of wood was involved but they would char and harden on the inside of the cavity making them release quite well. I have been tempted to try to make one. I do make my Gotcha heads using two blocks of wood clamped together with holes drilled along the separation of the two halves. Works quite well for awhile. Something to get into.

Does anyone have(and will share) the directions on making a wood sinker mold?

For Toejam et al: , Buying a custom mold is just too easy for us tinkerers. (My wife has a different name for us) C2


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## floridasportsman

*re: charlie2*

I was think about making my own gotchas, Im tired of spending $5 dolloars per lure. I just wasnt sure how to get the slop on the heads right. Could you post pics?


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## toejam

C2 et pi, I still understand tinkering. If you want to make a sinker that a comercial mold doesn't exist for, you have covered most of the options.

I still sand cast this sinker that I like to use in the surf.











And I still cast these lifter weights in a big SS spoon I like to use around the rocks










I tried a 2 pc wood mold once. I had a lot of warpage as the mold was used making it hard to seal teh seams. It may be I didn't stay with it long enough to find the correct solution. I know wood is like other mold material, it has got be dry or pourous enough to handle the rapid expantion of water vapor so not to explode the motlen lead.


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## ReelKingin

floridasportsman said:


> I was think about making my own gotchas, Im tired of spending $5 dolloars per lure. I just wasnt sure how to get the slop on the heads right. Could you post pics?



i would like to know the samething...or someone that does make them and buy them


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## Charlie2

*Making Gotchas*

Hold on for awhile, please.

I am working up something about my experiences in making a gotcha type lure. I will post it as soon as I can. Right now, I'm refining my C2 Rig a bit.

To make the angled face, I just put the two halves together on an angle and use the drill press to drill the holes straight down. This gives me the desired angle automatically. I then drill the holes in the tube.

Paint the head using Krylon in either red or black, or even natural*clear). I've tried all and don't think that it really matters. Eyes, using the head of a nail in white with a black pupil with a toothpick.

Insert the head in the tube, Using a 1/16" diameter bit drill through tube and 'tongue'? together. .

Make a loop in the end of a piece of wire and thread through the head/tube down through through the eye of a treble hook then back into the body . Then it's down the length of the tube to the end where you can make a wire loop or crimp the wire around the back hook. You can loop a bucktail(sparse) on the wire if desired..

I then spray the whole lure except the head, with gold paint.

Then go fishing.

If I weren't such a 'tinkerer' I'd get a commercially made Gotcha and take it apart to make a plaster of paris mold.

The heads are probably glued in. I don't merely; using friction fitting the heads in the holes.

There; you have a homemade gotcha lure that works. C2


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## wdbrand

*I'd like to add to Charlies post if I might.*

If the gotchas wire is good but the hooks are broke or rusty, use side cutters and cut them off. Replace the two trebles with a "Mustad # 7826 double hook". They come in assorted sizes, so use what you like. And they will catch as many as a treble and no, they won't work off. "terminaltackle.com" is where I get them. The hook comes in nickel but you can spray paint gold if you like. Repaint while the hooks are off. If making one from scratch, start by taking one apart. Carry the head[7/8 or 1 ounce size] to a machine shop and see what the cost would be to make a one cavity mold. If you can hook up with the mold, you've got 99% of your battle whipped. Next go to an arrow/tackle shop and ask them to save you the drops off aluminum arrow shafts that they have cut to length. Using the head you used to make the mold, start sizing the cut-off drops and discard the ones that don't fit. Then cut to length. Get a coil of Malin SS leader material in about 38# and some beads . Paint the body first with a base coat[I use white] of spray paint. Then one or two more coats til you get the finish you want. Nails, match heads will put on the eyes. There's a thread in the seach feature on how to put it together. Type in gotcha plugs, then go to page 4, I believe. Decent diagram of the steps. Stock up on a box of band-aids and keep a couple pair of pliers handy. One in each front pocket. Unless you get smart and use the double hooks. Makes a great winter project. Go test them before time to fish. Around 1 outta 8 to 10 just won't run right most times. Put in junk box and reuse on another lure. I figger I end up with under 50 cents in the gotcha,and that's the high end, since my mold and lead don't cost anything. I've made DD several but don't know whether he ever fished them or not. That's funny Charlie. We both tinker and you work from the top to the back. I kinda settled on the rear thru the body and then up to the top and back to the bottom, holding the two wires and twisting my loop in the top.


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## wdbrand

*While we're taking molds and sinkers,*

I'm looking for some in-line trolling sinkers in sizes of 1&1/4; 1&1/2; and 2 ounce sizes. Anybody mold them?


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## toejam

"Do It" has them in 1, 1&1/2 and 2 oz size


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## ReelKingin

what holds the lead head in the shaft of the body you use?


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## wdbrand

*Thanks toejam.*

Reel, the hole you drill from top to bottom of the plug is the hole the wire goes up thru and back down thru. This holds the head in place and allows you to twist the loop to tie too at the top.


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## floridasportsman

*sand casting test*

I tried the sand casting method and it works great. I think Im gonna try fine grain blasting sand to make the sinker more defined and Id like to find a way to make the sand keep the shape, so I dont have to press the sinker back in before each pour.


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## narfpoit

floridasportsman said:


> I tried the sand casting method and it works great. I think Im gonna try fine grain blasting sand to make the sinker more defined and Id like to find a way to make the sand keep the shape, so I dont have to press the sinker back in before each pour.


You want fine grain silica sand and that is mixed with a small amount of bentonite which is found in cat litter that is the binder that you are looking for to help hold its shape. after it is mixed add a little water till it can hold its shape. I used this method for casting a ballast weight for my fishing light.


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## Charlie2

*Making Molds*



narfpoit said:


> You want fine grain silica sand and that is mixed with a small amount of bentonite which is found in cat litter that is the binder that you are looking for to help hold its shape. after it is mixed add a little water till it can hold its shape. I used this method for casting a ballast weight for my fishing light.


And it didn't explode when the hot lead hit the water?? You must have dried it somehow. Just my observation.

For wdbrand;

I tried it your way from back to front and IMO, your way is the better way. When you said 'up then back through the front hole', the light came on. It does make it easier to twist the two wires and tighten the wire up. Thanks; I owe you one.

For grabs for those interested in making their own gotchas, the bodies can be made of 3/8" diameter PVC; available at most hardware stores. The hooks are #4s(eyeball) and the wire is as wdbrand posted.

Observation: I tried three different head shapes and all three worked about the same. The sloped(angled) front, a square(blunt, I cheated and cupped the front a bit. This leads me to another experiment using worm weights??) and a rounded head showed no appreciable difference in fish catching ability.

I dipped some heads in paint rather than spray paint them and they hold up quite well. I don't prime them. Laziness; I guess. I'm still partial to Gold! C2


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## wdbrand

*Charlie,*

now try the double hooks in whatever size you like, instead of putting on hooks while you are making up the jig. Shore is more kindly to your fingers. Be sure to insert a 16D nail under the wire in front to keep from pulling too tight and binding the front treble/double. Oh, I use a bead on the rear a size larger than the ID of the shaft also to pull the rear loop tight against.


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## Charlie2

*Double Hooks*



wdbrand said:


> now try the double hooks in whatever size you like, instead of putting on hooks while you are making up the jig. Shore is more kindly to your fingers. Be sure to insert a 16D nail under the wire in front to keep from pulling too tight and binding the front treble/double. Oh, I use a bead on the rear a size larger than the ID of the shaft also to pull the rear loop tight against.


I already picked up on the double hook thing as well as pulling the wire tight with the front loop. The bead on the back is cool! Something to pull against as well serve as an attractor. Thanks! It's a pleasure to steal someone else's ideas for a change!  C2


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## narfpoit

Charlie2 said:


> And it didn't explode when the hot lead hit the water?? You must have dried it somehow. Just my observation.
> 
> C2


Nope not much water in it and it steams right out through the sand so it has somewhere to go. Just pour slow enough at first so that it heats up the sand slowly. You only get explosions if the water vapors get trapped. This is the same method they use for casting aluminum too which is a much hotter temp. You should be able to mix up a good batch of sand poke your gotcha head in there a bunch of times and pour away. Any shrinking from the cooling metal will just leave a nice cupped face. Then just scoop them out and brush them off and they should be ready for paint. And the sand can be used over and over again.


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## 757 Fire

When i made my own spiderweights with a wood mold after i poured the lead i waited between 15-30 seconds then knocked the weight out of the mold and straight into a bucket of water all it ever did was boil like crazy never a explosion.


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## Charlie2

*Making Weights*



narfpoit said:


> Nope not much water in it and it steams right out through the sand so it has somewhere to go. Just pour slow enough at first so that it heats up the sand slowly. You only get explosions if the water vapors get trapped. This is the same method they use for casting aluminum too which is a much hotter temp. You should be able to mix up a good batch of sand poke your gotcha head in there a bunch of times and pour away. Any shrinking from the cooling metal will just leave a nice cupped face. Then just scoop them out and brush them off and they should be ready for paint. And the sand can be used over and over again.


Thanks for the info! I was concerned; paranoid, for lack of a better word about water reacting to the hot lead.

Your explanation makes sense and I appreciate it very much.

My goal is to learn something new every day and today, my cup runneth over. Thanks to all! C2


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## SmoothLures

757 Fire said:


> When i made my own spiderweights with a wood mold after i poured the lead i waited between 15-30 seconds then knocked the weight out of the mold and straight into a bucket of water all it ever did was boil like crazy never a explosion.


Cause it's just a hot hunk of metal by then, molten lead will splatter everywhere if it hits water. Have a scar on my arm to prove it.


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## bobbym

*spider weights*

has anyone else ever nailed finish nails into a normal bank sinker to prevent them from rolling in the surf. I have on a few and they seem to work fine,the lead ws soft enough to hold a nail fine...Bob


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## FishinMortician

Why make a mould ?


If I were making Gotchas, I would use a section of copper pipe.

I would hacksaw my pipe at the angle I wanted, and then drill a hole for the midway hook. Slide a swivel up in the hole and then pass my through wire through it, leaving the other end dangling. The hole being just large enough to accomidate the swivel's barrel.

With wire in place, I would hammer down the other end and set the whole mess in a vice at an angle that puts the cut slope- horizontal, and pour. Then bend up the wire to form the eyes at each end, and then attach split rings and hooks to my connections.

Sand the pipe shiny and spray some laquer on it to keep it that way. Although hot lead might leave burn marks, I could still paint it.

It would be fast and you could use differing sized pipe and amounts of lead poured to customize it. You might not even have to fill the pipe all the way with lead, maybe make a butt weighted lure.

It would be quick and easy this way, and leave you lots of room to experiment and piddle away your day....I mean accomplish big and important things in the garage. Your cost would still be at least a few bucks though, which is why I would just buy the stupid lure to begin with. Pay the man his due and all that.

Just becareful with these homemade moulds and stuff. Molten lead can and will posion you and leave you with horrible and disfiguring scars. I have had some experiences with my experiences, and it happens quick. Pour outside with a fan blowing the fumes AWAY from you. Use common sense and keep the kids and dogs away. Wash your hands, and wear safety goggles.

Wasn't there an old post showing how to make Gotchas out of drinking straws ?

opcorn:


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## toejam

bobbym said:


> has anyone else ever nailed finish nails into a normal bank sinker to prevent them from rolling in the surf. I have on a few and they seem to work fine,the lead ws soft enough to hold a nail fine...Bob


I was on the road once and found myself in a sinker pinch.. I screwed some dry wall screws into some pyrimids and they were ok. the only problem was that they plowed the bottom al the way back on the retrieve.\, but they saved a fishing trip.........


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## FishOnTx

BONDO


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## johnfl

Do-it-molds.
http://www.do-itmolds.com/category.aspx?c=1
ebay also has aluminum molds.


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## Charlie2

*Improvisation*



toejam said:


> I was on the road once and found myself in a sinker pinch.. I screwed some dry wall screws into some pyrimids and they were ok. the only problem was that they plowed the bottom al the way back on the retrieve.\, but they saved a fishing trip.........


Old Alabama term for making do with whatcha got!

We got off fishing one time and 'misplaced' the sinker bag.

Do you know that lug nuts make excellent sinkers? Be careful that you don't lose too many. C2


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## marito001

*What about , plater???*

I just made a plaster mold for a pyramid sinker, Gypsum plaster or plaster of Paris, they sell it in powder bags at home depot probably, Just mix it with water then as it gets hard put the pyramid sinker in the middle and let it sit, put some baby oil on the sinker so it wont stick, then when its fully hardened take the sinker out, let the plaster sit until its hard as a rock, the pour in the melted led in the pyramid shape you just made from the plaster, and your all set to go. I just did mine today, hope it all go s well. the plaster is very cheap.


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## FishOnTx

marito001 said:


> I just made a plaster mold for a pyramid sinker, Gypsum plaster or plaster of Paris, they sell it in powder bags at home depot probably, Just mix it with water then as it gets hard put the pyramid sinker in the middle and let it sit, put some baby oil on the sinker so it wont stick, then when its fully hardened take the sinker out, let the plaster sit until its hard as a rock, the pour in the melted led in the pyramid shape you just made from the plaster, and your all set to go. I just did mine today, hope it all go s well. the plaster is very cheap.


About how many pour i can make until it burn or break down?


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## marito001

FishOnTx said:


> About how many pour i can make until it burn or break down?


Testing is in process , didn't go to work today, I'll post it as soon as I give it a go.


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## moose22dog

wdbrand said:


> I'm looking for some in-line trolling sinkers in sizes of 1&1/4; 1&1/2; and 2 ounce sizes. Anybody mold them?


i make a crescent shape in 1 1/2 and 2 never herd of 1 1/4 oz sinker. here's a picture of them.http://www.do-itmolds.com/prodmolds.aspx?c=68


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## marito001

FishOnTx said:


> About how many pour i can make until it burn or break down?


Well it did real good but cracked half way, I thought it was plaster, but I used redimix, lol, it does take heat real well but it cracked from one side, maybe making it thicker, mine was around 4 inches diameter and 3 inches deep, the thing is I use direct heat on the mold. I was thinking about using some fine dirt like clay and see what happens.


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## FishOnTx

marito001 said:


> Well it did real good but cracked half way, I thought it was plaster, but I used redimix, lol, it does take heat real well but it cracked from one side, maybe making it thicker, mine was around 4 inches diameter and 3 inches deep, the thing is I use direct heat on the mold. I was thinking about using some fine dirt like clay and see what happens.


dont try the fine dirt like clay i THINK that it might not be dry enough leading to lead to explode or more like popping hot lead bb's every where.IMO if you do let me know how it went just warning you first


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## marito001

FishOnTx said:


> dont try the fine dirt like clay i THINK that it might not be dry enough leading to lead to explode or more like popping hot lead bb's every where.IMO if you do let me know how it went just warning you first


Lol LOl thats exactly what happened with the redimix mold, I guess it will be a good idea to put it in the oven for a couple of minutes before trying to pour the lead, I have a burn in my arm from today, melted the lead poured in and puff, it was everywhere. Thank God no major injury.


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## fishinNuT

FishinMortician said:


> Why make a mould ?
> 
> 
> If I were making Gotchas, I would use a section of copper pipe.
> 
> I would hacksaw my pipe at the angle I wanted, and then drill a hole for the midway hook. Slide a swivel up in the hole and then pass my through wire through it, leaving the other end dangling. The hole being just large enough to accomidate the swivel's barrel.
> 
> With wire in place, I would hammer down the other end and set the whole mess in a vice at an angle that puts the cut slope- horizontal, and pour. Then bend up the wire to form the eyes at each end, and then attach split rings and hooks to my connections.
> 
> Sand the pipe shiny and spray some laquer on it to keep it that way. Although hot lead might leave burn marks, I could still paint it.
> 
> It would be fast and you could use differing sized pipe and amounts of lead poured to customize it. You might not even have to fill the pipe all the way with lead, maybe make a butt weighted lure.
> 
> It would be quick and easy this way, and leave you lots of room to experiment and piddle away your day....I mean accomplish big and important things in the garage. Your cost would still be at least a few bucks though, which is why I would just buy the stupid lure to begin with. Pay the man his due and all that.
> 
> Just becareful with these homemade moulds and stuff. Molten lead can and will posion you and leave you with horrible and disfiguring scars. I have had some experiences with my experiences, and it happens quick. Pour outside with a fan blowing the fumes AWAY from you. Use common sense and keep the kids and dogs away. Wash your hands, and wear safety goggles.
> 
> Wasn't there an old post showing how to make Gotchas out of drinking straws ?
> 
> opcorn:


i just recently made some imitation gotchas out of straws. only have one set of trebles in rear though. color combinations are endless, with solid neon straws to white straws with different color stripes. cut off front slope wit scissors. pull it 18 inches behind a 1/2 or 1 oz sinker. you can cut to watever length u want. i guess u could add another hook up front by threading wire in straw. i make mine small enuff that one hook should suffice, straw less than 3 inches long.

tried it last weekend at OI, looked perty good in the water. of course it didnt have the killer action of a gotcha but it still moved good. didnt catch anything but neither did anyone else using real gotchas so the jury is still out on its effectiveness. 

ima try it again wen fall season kix off at OI. i will post up results. easy to make with or wihout second hook. biggest expense is gold long shank treble for rear, but still cheaper that gotcha. just havta wait to see if it produces. I read than it was really effective on spanish...we shall see.


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## FishOnTx

Mod my mold last night. This was the outcome.tell me what yal think


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## HuskyMD

dang, those are good looking...


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