# (Long) Hauling Question



## Hannibal (Aug 10, 2007)

I finally got my kayak rack built/welded and ready to go. Already used it for a short trip but will soon be taking it down to OBX where it will hopefully help me land some toothy critters. Since this is a 6+ hour haul, I want to ask for people's opinion (or correct answer).

When mounting your kayak over your roof (not in the bed or behind) - it will obviously be in contact with heavy air flow/wind. Does it make a difference if the kayak is strapped down top up or top down? Given the slight curve from to back - I would sort of think and top down would create some downforce, helping to hold the yak down while top up would actually generate some lift.

My rack incorporates the foam pad system resting on the roof of my truck cab so wind would be coming over the hood right up under it.

I didn't have any problems rigging it top side up and noticed no problems while driving - but there is a big difference between 20 mins and 6+ hours. 

Is there any logic to it?


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## narfpoit (Jun 16, 2004)

Hannibal said:


> I finally got my kayak rack built/welded and ready to go. Already used it for a short trip but will soon be taking it down to OBX where it will hopefully help me land some toothy critters. Since this is a 6+ hour haul, I want to ask for people's opinion (or correct answer).
> 
> When mounting your kayak over your roof (not in the bed or behind) - it will obviously be in contact with heavy air flow/wind. Does it make a difference if the kayak is strapped down top up or top down? Given the slight curve from to back - I would sort of think and top down would create some downforce, helping to hold the yak down while top up would actually generate some lift.
> 
> ...


There really shouldnt be much difference between 20 minutes and 6 hours. You should have it strapped down well for either. I keep mine top up because that is the way may rack it shaped to hold it. I just use 2 straps over the top and I check them everytime I stop. This has gotten me through a 15 hour drive to florida and back so I am sure it should work for you too. Also a good tip is to twist your straps that way when you are traveling at speed it wont make so much noise. I know it sounds opposite but it works. There aint much worse than going 75 down the highway and the straps strumming away resonating on that big hollow kayak. It is very loud.


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## Too Busy (Sep 7, 2007)

Upside down keeps the yak from trying to rip the roof rack off the car. I secure mine with straps, but ALWAYS tie front and rear to the car's tow hooks
I've seen a destroyed yak still tied to a destroyed rook rack on the side of the highway.....not a pretty sight


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## Rockstar (Jun 23, 2004)

I used to carry my kayak on top of the flat roof of a Volvo wagon... and believe it or not, upside down will trap more air into the hollow cockpit... creating more lift on the racks. I would flip it upside down on short trips to even out the little bit of warpage due to tight bow/stern lines.

I'd suggest running the straps through the scuppers for extra security and make sure your foam blocks are secure.


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## uncdub13 (Aug 9, 2003)

narfpoit said:


> Also a good tip is to twist your straps that way when you are traveling at speed it wont make so much noise. I know it sounds opposite but it works. There aint much worse than going 75 down the highway and the straps strumming away resonating on that big hollow kayak. It is very loud.


Good advice. Stacking two kayaks on my roof exposes a lot of strap, and that humming can get pretty loud if the straps are straight instead of twisted.

All i use is a pair of ratchet straps on my factory rack with foam surf rack pads. I put the hull top up and sinch the straps down pretty firm, but not crazy tight enough to bend the hull. Used this method for years, whether it be a trip down the hill to the creek or down I-95 to florida. Had it up to 90+mph and never had a problem. Maybe tighten it up a click or two when stopping for gas but that's it. Dont really notice much difference in gas mileage either. Hull up, hull down, or no kayak at all...cant really tell the difference with mine. This method is about as simple as it gets, and only takes like 60 seconds to load or unload.


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## red_fish (Jul 22, 2007)

uncdub13 said:


> Good advice. Stacking two kayaks on my roof exposes a lot of strap, and that humming can get pretty loud if the straps are straight instead of twisted.
> 
> All i use is a pair of ratchet straps on my factory rack with foam surf rack pads. I put the hull top up and sinch the straps down pretty firm, but not crazy tight enough to bend the hull. Used this method for years, whether it be a trip down the hill to the creek or down I-95 to florida. Had it up to 90+mph and never had a problem. Maybe tighten it up a click or two when stopping for gas but that's it. Dont really notice much difference in gas mileage either. Hull up, hull down, or no kayak at all...cant really tell the difference with mine. This method is about as simple as it gets, and only takes like 60 seconds to load or unload.


ditto that never used the bow stern straps my self take to long to get on and off also that humming noise can be fixed by cranking up the tunes


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## narfpoit (Jun 16, 2004)

red_fish said:


> ditto that never used the bow stern straps my self take to long to get on and off also that humming noise can be fixed by cranking up the tunes


I blew my speakers trying that one, now I just twist.


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## Sledge142 (Jan 11, 2005)

*Humming sound....*

Thanks for the "strap twisting" tip...could never figure out why my kayak hummed sometimes and others it didn't...I use just the tie down straps and the foam blocks directly on the roof of my jeep (kayak upright) and never had a problem...2-4 hour trips...


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