# penn 525 mag T rebuild - 2/14/2010



## alantani

penn 525 mag T rebuild - 2/14/2010

penn makes a nice series of graphite reels. they're light, they've got plenty of drag range, and they're very easy to service. here's a link to the schematic.

http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/store/images/pennparts/schematics/525magt.pdf

and here is our reel.




























start by removing the left side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 110).










note that you have two long screws at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions (key #32) and one short screw at the 6 o'clock position (key #110).










remove the left side ring (key #28).










remove the left side plate (key #27). 










here's an inside view of the left side plate, showing the magnet.










remove the spool assembly (key #29L).




























here's a quick glance inside the frame (key #183).



















we're going to take a moment to clean up the frame a little.










now, back to the spool. remove the spool spindle (key #71L).










remove the clutch plate retainer (key #71C).



















remove the clutch plate (key #71B).










remove the right spool bearing (key #55). it measures 0.185 x 0.375 x 0.125 inches.










remove the shields from this bearing, clean it with carb cleaner and compressed air, and lube it with xtreme reel +. for a full discussion of bearing maintenance, go to http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13.0. 










i've seen some spools with alot of corrosion on the ends. clean up the spool an old toothbrush and leave a light coat of grease on it to prevent corrosion.










install the right spool bearing (key #55).










install the clutch plate (key #71B).










install the clutch plate retainer (key #71C). you know, that retaining ring doesn't look like it's got a very good grip.










let's flip the clutch plate over and reinstall the retainer. 










there, that looks like the ring has a better grip.










use a flat screwdriver to CAREFULLY lift up the click ratchet (key #81). please do not break this. if you have two screwdrivers, place them at 180 dregrees, turn the blades clockwise and lift both sides simultaneously. i just can't do this and take a picture at the same time. 



















remove the left side spool bearing (key #55). this bearing also measures 0.185 x 0.375 x 0.125 inches.










clean, lube and reinstall this bearing (key #55) in the same way. 










before you install the click ratchet (key #81), match up the grooves.




























install the spool spindle (key #71L).










now give it a spin. using the stock abec 5 bearing, shields remove, clean and lubed with xtreme reel +, this bare spool spun for 2 minutes and 25 seconds. and that was without holding a beer in my left hand!










install the spool assembly (key #29L).










take a moment to grease the screw holes.










install the left side plate (key #27). 










install the left side ring (key #28).










install the two long left side plate screws (key #32) and the one short left side plate screw (key #110).










now spin the spool. with the magnet backed all the way off, the spool spins for only 8 seconds. with the magnet cranked all the way in, freespool drops to 3 seconds.










now for the right side plate. remove the handle lock screw (key #32A).










remove the handle lock (key #110A).










remove the handle nut (key #23) using a 7/16ths wrench.










remove the handle (key #24).










remove the tension spring washer (key #8). i usually throw these away. they tend to cause corrosion.










remove the star drag (key #10).










remove the tension spring washer (key #18).










remove the two right side plate screws (key #32).










push the eccentric lever (key #21) straight up.










remove the right side ring (key #2).










this is someone's idea of a joke. there is a small right side plate screw (key #39S) hidden underneath the right side ring (key #2).










remove the right side plate screw (key #39S).










remove the two lower right side plate screws (key #46).










remove the right side plate assembly (key #1).


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## alantani

take a moment to check out the gear stack. we've got a stainless steel pinion gear and a brass alloy main gear. it also has a stack of three drag washers that functions as a traditional stack of five.










remove the clutch shaft (key #98S).










remove the entire drag stack as a unit (key #'s 5, 6 and 7C).










remove the fiber washer (key #4).










remove the ratchet spacer (key #98R).










remove the two clutch springs (key #18B).










remove the pinion gear (key #13) and the pinion yoke (key #12) as a unit.










remove the eccentric jack (key #11).










remove the two bearing retainer screws (key #63).










remove the gear stud (key #134) and bearing (key #20A) as a unit. this bearing measures 8 x 16 x 5mm.










insert the top of the gear stud (key #134) into the hanlde (key #24) so that you have something to hold on to and remove the bearing screw (key #121).




























remove the shields of this bearing (key #20A), pack it with grease and replace the shields. 










reinstall the packed bearing (key #20A) and the bearing screw (key #121).










well, now we have a problem. we need to pack the pinion bearing (no key #) with grease. to get to it, we will have to back track and remove the spool. 










with the spool removed, the pinion bearing (no key #) taps out easily. it measures 8 x 12 x 2.5mm. the bearing should be cleaned, packed with grease and reinstalled.










ok, we are NOW ready to put everything back together.










install the gear stud (key #134), bearing (key #20A) and screw (key #121) as a unit.










install the bearing retainer (key #173).










install the bearing retainer screws (key #63).










install the eccentric jack (key #11).










install the pinion gear (key #13) and pinion yoke (key #12) as a unit.










install the clutch springs (key #18B).










install the ratchet spacer (key #98R).










we are going to replace the fiber washer (key #4) with a penn ht-100 #6-113 drag washer. 










slap a thick coat of cal's grease on the washer before installing it. don't worry about the excess grease. it will simply squeeze out the sides. 










install the main gear (key #5).










slap a thick coat of cal's grease on the three drag washers (key #6).










install the drag washers (key #6) alternating with the metal washers (key #7C) and the clutch shaft (key #98S).










i almost forgot about the right side plate bearing (key #55A). this bearing measures 0.125 x 0.375 x 0.156 inches. this bearing can be difficult to open and pack, so we're going to just lube it with corrosion x and keep out fingers crossed that it does not corrode. lube the anti-reverse roller bearing with corrosion x as well.










put a small bead of grease in the screw holes of the frame (key #183).










flip the eccentric lever (key #21) forward and install the right main side plate (key #1).










install the two lower right side plate screws (key #46).










install the small right side plate screw (key #39S).










move the eccentric lever (key #21) to the center and install the right side ring (key #2).










install the two right side plate screws (key #32). 










install the tension spring (key #18).










install the star drag (key #10) and turn it down until it clears the shoulders of the gear stud (key #134).










remember the tension spring washer (key #8)? all it does is cause corrosion, so we are going to throw it away.










install the handle (key #24).










install the handle nut (key #23).










install the handle nut lock cap (key #110A).










install the handle lock screw (key #32A).










install the spool assembly (key #29L).










install the left side plate (key #27) and left side ring (key #28).










install the left side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 110).










congratulations, you're done!










well, almost. no rebuild would be complete without the signature handle upgrade. here's the same reel with a chromed arm and a 4/0 kolekar grip.



















ok, now we're done!


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## Tracker16

Nice. I can't imagine how you got the shields out of the spool bearings. Those things are so small I can hardly pick them up let alone pry the shields off


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## kingchaser34

nice very helpful thank you


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## kingfisherman23

This is most definitely Bible-worthy. I'm going to cheat a bit and just copy my notes over.



> Great post, Alan! The 525s are a great set of reels. A few notes...
> 
> I find that the most common places for corrosion to appear in these reels are the reel foot, under the silver star drag shroud and around the side tension knob.
> 
> The clutch plate on every Penn 525 I've worked on has the same problem you detailed. I think it is a function of the assembly. It can be very irritating the first time you run into it, but the plate simply will not go back onto the spool the same way as it comes off.
> 
> On the standard 525 with the sliding mag, there is a small screw on both sideplates of the reel. I don't know why it is there. Perhaps just to discourage you from working on it LOL!
> 
> Finally, as you install the right side right it is imperative that you make sure the tips seat into the cuts of the sideplate. I saw one that didn't set and tightening the screws caused the ring to bend and had to be replaced.
> 
> Evan


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## dsurf

Superb detail and close-up work........I did not see any mention of the left side plate bearing.....most folks don't realize it's there. It's not identified on any schematic I've seen. Same size as right side plate bearing that's under tension knob. Primarily only comes into play when there's force on spool, i.e hauling in a fish. According to Penn it has no role when casting.....only retrieving with a load.

It's under the brass cap on left side plate (in your 8th photo from the top) which houses the left end of spool spindle. Not sure why Penn left it off schematic because if you order a left side plate, it does not come with it. You have to tell them to send you a 
#55A bearing (which is the right side plate bearing.)

Getting this brass cap off without damaging can be a real challenge. I use a small round nose pliers with protective covering (like thin cloth).


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## alantani

dsurf said:


> Superb detail and close-up work........I did not see any mention of the left side plate bearing.....most folks don't realize it's there.


wow, never saw it! actually, i would think that it would have no role, casting or retrieving........


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## kingfisherman23

I've never seen a bearing in the left side plate. I can't see where the bearing would come into play. The brass sleeve fits the spindle quite securely. I'll have to pull my 525 out tonight and give it a look.

Evan


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## dsurf

kingfisherman23 said:


> I've never seen a bearing in the left side plate. I can't see where the bearing would come into play. The brass sleeve fits the spindle quite securely. I'll have to pull my 525 out tonight and give it a look.
> 
> Evan


In fact, I do believe Black Beard made mention of it in one of his postings....I've owned five of them and all had it.....including the Super Mag extra with clicker and knobby mag..........it does come into play when spool is under load.


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## Fishman

Thanks Alan


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## tjbjornsen

Thank You Alan.
How long does that take you (without the pics? )
Figure if I can do it in 4Xs your time, I'll consider it a success.
Tom


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## kingfisherman23

dsurf said:


> In fact, I do believe Black Beard made mention of it in one of his postings....I've owned five of them and all had it.....including the Super Mag extra with clicker and knobby mag..........it does come into play when spool is under load.


I pulled my 525 out last night and took a look. There is indeed a bearing under the right side sleeve. I've never noticed this bearing, thanks dsurf for pointing it out. It appears that there is just enough play in the sleeve that the spindle rests on the bearing. I'm surprised that this part isn't listed in the schematics.

Evan


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## alantani

thank for that. i never knew, but it seems logical. as for the time involved, a reel like this will typically take me 20-30 minutes. alan


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## seajay

kingfisherman23 said:


> I pulled my 525 out last night and took a look. There is indeed a bearing under the right side sleeve. I've never noticed this bearing, thanks dsurf for pointing it out. It appears that there is just enough play in the sleeve that the spindle rests on the bearing. I'm surprised that this part isn't listed in the schematics.
> 
> Evan


[There is indeed a bearing under the right side sleeve]
What sleeve on the right side?


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## kingfisherman23

Whoops. I meant the left side. Here's a shot of that pesky miniature screw in the left plate of the slider 525:










This is the cap/sleeve in between the clicker assembly and the mag carrier:










I wiggled the cap back and forth until the lip lifted a bit, then used a small flat-head screwdriver to lift it the rest of the way out. If you remove it carefully you find the bearing underneath the cap:



















The measurement of this bearing in the standard 525 Mag is .125 x .375 x .156 inches, just like the right side bearing. Both the bearing and the cup it sits in are packed with Penn Blue Grease. While we're on the topic, the right side bearing can be accessed on a standard 525 by removing the spool tension knob and pushing the bearing out from inside the sideplate. I pull it out, open one shield, pack it with Blue Grease and replace the shield. If you want greater spool speed, you can run lighter oil in both shaft bearings. It works fine for me with RRF in the spool bearings and Blue Grease in the shaft bearings.

The whole design got me thinking about the mechanics if the 525. Essentially what Penn has done here is taken the clicker design of the Abu reels (where the clicker/LW cog is attached to the spool), hollowed out the cog so it doesn't ride the spool shaft and integrated a speed bullet into the sideplate. So you get the spool speed of a CT-converted Abu along with a clicker. Slick work, Penn.

Evan


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## RW_20

Nice post!!

Evan, I'm not getting your pics.


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## HuskyMD

good, I have one in great need of a rebuild. Something to do this weekend. Where do you get carb cleaner - auto parts store? Is lighter fluid an alternative?


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## kingfisherman23

I edited my Photobucket albums, it changed all my picture locations. These should work.



> Whoops. I meant the left side. Here's a shot of that pesky miniature screw in the left plate of the slider 525:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the cap/sleeve in between the clicker assembly and the mag carrier:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wiggled the cap back and forth until the lip lifted a bit, then used a small flat-head screwdriver to lift it the rest of the way out. If you remove it carefully you find the bearing underneath the cap:


I generally use a lighter fluid soak for my bearings. I have yet to try carb cleaner and compressed air, but you can get CRC carb cleaner at Wal-Mart or any major auto parts retailer.

Evan


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## RW_20

Guys, I would recommend brake cleaner over carb cleaner. Radiator Specialty Company brake cleaner is non flammable, cleans great, and does not attack as many plastics as carb cleaner will. I have used this stuff for many applications, from cleaning engine and trans parts to electric motors and switches. Just always test whatever product you decide use on a small spot before going all out. Carb cleaner, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner will work great on all metal pieces.

Heres what I prefer: Radiator Specialty (Gunk, Solder seal) Brake Clean


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## kingfisherman23

racewire20 said:


> Guys, I would recommend brake cleaner over carb cleaner. Radiator Specialty Company brake cleaner is non flammable, cleans great, and does not attack as many plastics as carb cleaner will. I have used this stuff for many applications, from cleaning engine and trans parts to electric motors and switches. Just always test whatever product you decide use on a small spot before going all out. Carb cleaner, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner will work great on all metal pieces.
> 
> Heres what I prefer: Radiator Specialty (Gunk, Solder seal) Brake Clean


Does this stuff leave a residue? That's why I like lighter fluid and mineral spirits. They pull out grease and contaminants then evaporate and leave no residue on the metal to gunk up the bearing.

Evan


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## RW_20

No, that's why I like using it as an electrical motor and contact cleaner.


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## HuskyMD

how to remove shield on bearings?


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## alantani

HuskyMD said:


> how to remove shield on bearings?


http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13.0


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## HuskyMD

thanks, I did my 525 last night. The tension spring washers were in fact beginning to show corrosion.


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## Tacpayne

kingfisherman23 said:


> Does this stuff leave a residue? That's why I like lighter fluid and mineral spirits. They pull out grease and contaminants then evaporate and leave no residue on the metal to gunk up the bearing.
> 
> Evan


If you think mineral spirits dont leave a residue you are mistaken. In rod building mineral spirits can be used as a adheasive remover without worrrying about damaging the finish on a blank. If you dont go back and clean the area you used it in with denatured alcohol the residue will repel the epoxy when you try to apply it. It does leave a oily residue that you can feel


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## kingfisherman23

Tacpayne said:


> If you think mineral spirits dont leave a residue you are mistaken. In rod building mineral spirits can be used as a adheasive remover without worrrying about damaging the finish on a blank. If you dont go back and clean the area you used it in with denatured alcohol the residue will repel the epoxy when you try to apply it. It does leave a oily residue that you can feel


Really? Interesting. I've never noticed. I only used that stuff once when I was out of lighter fluid and the bearings went into the ultrasonic cleaner afterwards, so I never noticed the residue. Thanks for the heads-up!

Evan


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