# Butt cap sizing and other questions?



## rocket (Dec 1, 2008)

Ok, this is probably the most elementary question ever asked on here but it's my first build so... when selecting a rubber butt cap should the inside diameter be slightly smaller or slightly larger than the outside diameter of the butt? I'm thinking it should be slightly larger allowing room for epoxy but I'd appreciate any opinions on the topic. 

The rod I'm dealing with is right at .85 inches at the butt. It's a 10.5' SU1266 from breakawayusa. Does anyone have experience with this blank?

Also, what kind of epoxy do you all like for attaching caps and reel seats?


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## Ryan Y (Dec 1, 2005)

I use regular 6 min epoxy gel and sometimes rodbond.

The 6 min epoxy gel is the waterproof type.

Buttcaps, It all depends on the grip for me. I've put them on over cork tape tape with epoxy/rodbond to allow for a slightly bigger cap.

Ive also used some larger then the butt section but shimmed it out to match a hypalon grip (such as a gimbal).

I do try and get the closest fit possible though all the time.

Lastly, I mix my epoxy/rodbond in the buttcap when possible and it's the last thing I put on the rod.


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## rocket (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks for the advice. I think for this build I am going to use shrink wrap on the handle and attach the cap directly to the blank. Mixing the epoxy in the cap sounds like a good idea. I might give that a try.


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## Hollybrooke (Nov 18, 2008)

I did one a while back with the x flock heat shrink. I put the butt on first and matched it to "just fit" the blank then ran the heat shrink from the reel seat down and over the butt cap, so the that buttcap was under the heat shrink. It came out really nice and clean looking.


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## Mark G (Nov 15, 2004)

rocket said:


> Thanks for the advice. I think for this build I am going to use shrink wrap on the handle and attach the cap directly to the blank. Mixing the epoxy in the cap sounds like a good idea. I might give that a try.


I have the 10 1/2 foot 1267 from breakaway, pretty similar, just a slightly stronger weight range.

I put the heat shrink on first- shrink it to the rod leaving an extra 3" hang over the butt end. After shrinking the heat shrink to the butt trim the end so there is about an inch or inch and a half left hanging over the butt. Fold/ Roll this excess up into/inside the end of the butt. It isn't necessary to roll this extra inside the end of the butt, but has several benefits. It makes for a very professional fit and finish, and it helps prevent the heat shrink from sliding around (up the rod) when installing the butt cap. I also use double sided masking tape under heat shrink to keep it from moving around on the blank after it's shrunk.

THe butt cap should fit just snug enough so that it will stay on without glue, but not be so tight it is difficult to force over the heat shrink. 

THe only reason I wouldn't mix the epoxy in the butt cap is to prevent clogging the hole that should be in the bottom of the butt cap. (and to prevent the epoxy from running out the hole). The hole allows the cap to be put on while letting air to escape-- so try not to block it with epoxy. The hole also provides against a vacuum being formed by 2 piece rods, which can be hard to pull apart on a tight fit-- even harder if that hole in the cap gets blocked. THe hole also allows for moisture to escape/evaporate.

For those that have ever had a really tough time pulling a rod apart, sometimes removing the butt cap can help.

I just mix the epoxy on aluminum foil, then spread it around on the inside wall of the butt cap with a popsicle stick. Even if the fit is slightly snug, the fresh epoxy will act as a lubricant and let the cap slide right over the heat shrink. I do not coat the outside of the heat shrink itself, just the inside of the butt cap.

I use the same 5 minute epoxy that I use for tip tops-- it's pretty easy to remove the butt cap if it needs to be replaced, or to replace /repair warn x flock, just warm the cap up with a heat gun for a little bit and it should slide off.


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## rocket (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks for the detailed responses. I really like the idea of folding the wrap over the bottom and using double sided tape. I had been wondering if I should do something to try to prevent slipping.


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## Mark G (Nov 15, 2004)

rocket said:


> Thanks for the detailed responses. I really like the idea of folding the wrap over the bottom and using double sided tape. I had been wondering if I should do something to try to prevent slipping.


If the heat shrink is slightly small (it should be a size only big enough to slide over the butt), it can be difficult to slide over the sticky double sided tape. To make the job easy fold the x flock in half prior to assembly, then pour a bit of denatured alcohol inside the tube. Squeeze both ends of the heat shrink and slush it around to spread the alcohol around. You might want to do this outside. Let the excess alcohol slide out the heat shrink, then slide it quickly over the double sided tape. THe alcohol acts as a short term lubricant, but dries/evaporates fairly quickly.

This is very similar to how new golf grips are installed. double sided tape with solvent to activate the glue and make it slippery enough to slide the tight grip over the tape.

Just be sure to let the alcohol thoroughly evaporate, before taking the heat gun to the heat shrink. I'd wait at least 30 minutes.


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## rocket (Dec 1, 2008)

Mark G said:


> If the heat shrink is slightly small (it should be a size only big enough to slide over the butt), it can be difficult to slide over the sticky double sided tape. To make the job easy fold the x flock in half prior to assembly, then pour a bit of denatured alcohol inside the tube. Squeeze both ends of the heat shrink and slush it around to spread the alcohol around. You might want to do this outside. Let the excess alcohol slide out the heat shrink, then slide it quickly over the double sided tape. THe alcohol acts as a short term lubricant, but dries/evaporates fairly quickly.
> 
> This is very similar to how new golf grips are installed. double sided tape with solvent to activate the glue and make it slippery enough to slide the tight grip over the tape.
> 
> Just be sure to let the alcohol thoroughly evaporate, before taking the heat gun to the heat shrink. I'd wait at least 30 minutes.


Great advice! Thanks.


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## rocket (Dec 1, 2008)

Is this what you are referring to when you say 5 minute epoxy?

http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/All-Epoxies/American-Tackle-5-Minute-Epoxy-Glue

Also, will this same epoxy work well for applying reels seats or will I be better off using the thicker rod bond?


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## Mark G (Nov 15, 2004)

rocket said:


> Is this what you are referring to when you say 5 minute epoxy?
> 
> http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/All-Epoxies/American-Tackle-5-Minute-Epoxy-Glue
> 
> Also, will this same epoxy work well for applying reels seats or will I be better off using the thicker rod bond?



I would go with a 15 or 20 minute epoxy for reel seats. They are a little more time consuming than just slipping on a butt cap, you don't want the 5 minute variety setting up (getting hard) while you are in the middle of sliding the reel seat in place.

The five minute variety is good for smaller applications like tip tops and butt caps, you just need to be organized and have everything ready before you mix it up. You won't have time to go looking for a butt cap after it's mixed up.


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