# How to Tie the Earl Brinn Pompano Rig



## SmoothLures

http://www.examiner.com/fishing-in-charleston-sc/the-earl-brinn-bottom-rig

Let me know what you think! We've been needing a bottom rig post, so here you go. I'll be doing some more later.


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## dudeondacouch

Seems needlessly complex.

I think I'll just stick with tying simple dropper loops in flouro leader.


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## moose22dog

looks good, But what dude said.


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## AbuMike

I have been tying a variation of this rig since last year. It's more simple than droppers once you see it done a couple times. To attach my snells I form a dbl. overhand knot just as with a slimbeauty knot. Pass the tag end of the snell through the figure eight formed by the dbl overhand and finish with a 3 turn uni. When done with the 2-3 or even 4 snells turn the whole thing over and the hooks will stick straight out from the rig.


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## SmoothLures

Complex to put in words, but stupid easy to tie. All ya do is tie a swivel one one end, a snap on the other, tie two overhand knots, stick a piece of line for your hook through the overhand knot and tie a uni knot. I like it much better than a dropper loop and it's just as easy.


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## hifu

Yep, a little too much going on there. I like the "fish mojo" puppy drum rig with fluoro......pretty simple rig and seems to catch just about anything with yur hook size.


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## dudeondacouch

SmoothLures said:


> Complex to put in words, but stupid easy to tie. All ya do is tie a swivel one one end, a snap on the other, tie two overhand knots, stick a piece of line for your hook through the overhand knot and tie a uni knot. I like it much better than a dropper loop and it's just as easy.


That's six knots and you don't even have hooks attached yet.


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## solid7

It is still nice to have dropper loops on this rig. I like to be able to replace hooks on fluoro snells when I get bit off by a bluefish or other small toothy beast. I have a bit of a problem with making "100% disposable" rigs. If you are patient, you can back off those double overhand knots a bit to slip in a new leader, but it is more than a bit of a hassle.

I have hand tied hundreds of this type of rig, (and variations thereof) and I just keep coming back to the dropper loops. I am a big believer in fresh hooks every trip out, and this makes it even less sensible to tie with "dedicated" drop leaders.


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## DrumintheSuds

I tried this rig and while it is a good solid rig I prefer loops myself (double overhand). With the loops I can change hooks and bead colors on the fly.


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## solid7

DrumintheSuds said:


> I tried this rig and while it is a good solid rig I prefer loops myself (double overhand). With the loops I can change hooks and bead colors on the fly.


That depends on the fish. They work better as pompano rigs with an invisible drop leader. That doubled over loop is anything but subtle. Will it catch? Sure. However, on a day when a pompano is finicky, you double your chances with a single strand, invisible leader. (in my experience - around these parts, pompano are my specialty)

However, there are many variations for other species. This "Earl Brinn" is just a version of a "Poor Man's Rig". Been around forever...


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## HStew

The rig was designed for pomps. Keeping this in mind, in a half gal. zip I store 3' leaders with a loop type knot ( I prefer the perfection knot) one end , snap swivel opposite end. In another zip bag I store snelled hooks with one end knotless so they won,t tangle. If you leave them long they can be tied onto the main leader any length you prefer when putting the rig together ( i.e. with overhand or fig. eight and uni ), which is on the beach for me.


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## SmoothLures

And I dunno about you guys, but I'm not making 3-4' rigs out of 100% fluorocarbon.


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## dudeondacouch

SmoothLures said:


> And I dunno about you guys, but I'm not making 3-4' rigs out of 100% fluorocarbon.


250yds 20# flouro = $15.00 (.06/yd)

250yds 20# mono = $2.50 (.01/yd)

For an extra nickel per, I'll gladly tie less knots and be able to rehook my rigs.


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## DrumintheSuds

fluorocarbon is a waste of money IMO.......People caught fish long before fluoro and pink ande works fine and dandy. I know some will argue but like I said it's just my opinion.


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## solid7

SmoothLures said:


> And I dunno about you guys, but I'm not making 3-4' rigs out of 100% fluorocarbon.


I make mine out of 40lb mono, (main leader) with approximately 4" long fluoro drop leaders. Sometimes the drop leaders have beads and floats, sometimes they do not. (All variations thereof seem to work sometimes, and not others)


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## solid7

DrumintheSuds said:


> fluorocarbon is a waste of money IMO.......People caught fish long before fluoro and pink ande works fine and dandy. I know some will argue but like I said it's just my opinion.


People took a dump before toilet paper, too. 

Opinion noted, but fluoro is king for invisibility. And yes, it does make a difference. I discovered this on a snook fishing trip one day. Story for another time, but don't underestimate fluoro. That being said, don't make your entire rig from it, or spool your reel with it.


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## FishinMortician

You can still carry some pre-tied snoods with you and change out. You don't have to back out anything. Just clip the old leader close and tie an overhand above or below the old knot. Just don't pull the old leader all the way out. Leave it in the old knot to keep it from cinching down too far. You can repair it very quickly once you get used to tying it.

Earl didn't have issues with bluefish chewing his fine rigs. He used long shank circle hooks. He also proved to me that a figure 8 knot was not an advantage over the overhand knot.

The key to getting the most out of it comes from proper technique. Like many other things, it depends on the man doing it.

Dropper loops work well, too. But when using certain hooks, it is hard to get the line to pass through. This rig gets you past that obstacle. Also, when using smaller sized beads, a loop may not get through.

If you can get away with casting lighter leaders, as in 15lb test, a dropper loop would be preferable. The Brinn rig is meant to offer 'stand-off' for the snoods. Light line doesn't do that for you. I make mine using a 60lb main line and 25lb flouro snoods. Sometimes heavier. If the snood is too light it can wrap around the main line.


I tie up snelled snoods and add beads, then when I have enough of them, start forming the main rig bodies and attaching. Take your time. Form the Uni first, then slide it towards the overhand, then close the overhand some, then cinch the uni tight and pull it towards the overhand. Finally, once everything is in place, tighten that overhand tight. The overhand must be tight. Oh....don't trim the tag end too close, it might pull through.


Old Earl figured these things long long ago, and he did a fine job. Catch me on the sand and I will have at least two of them soaking. They catch fish.

There are many variations of rigs and no one rig does it all. Just experiment some and see what works best for you. Then PRACTICE tying them until you make a perfect rig everytime. This is just another rig to try. Confidence is a wonderful thing when something big eats your little piece of bait.


You should use a swivel at the sinker because when retrieving, a sinker tends to bounce and twirl around.


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## solid7

FishinMortician said:


> Dropper loops work well, too. But when using certain hooks, it is hard to get the line to pass through. This rig gets you past that obstacle. Also, when using smaller sized beads, a loop may not get through.


I tie small dropper loops and tie my leaders directly ONTO them. I don't do the "pass through and over" on the hook shank. This is where my version of the rig differs greatly. It makes it so much easier to tie on new drop leaders. Just gotta keep 'em small. (I use a pencil or other small round object to keep the loop open when I tighten it down)




FishinMortician said:


> There are many variations of rigs and no one rig does it all. Just experiment some and see what works best for you. Then PRACTICE tying them until you make a perfect rig everytime. This is just another rig to try. Confidence is a wonderful thing when something big eats your little piece of bait.


This is a true statement. I spent all season this year trying and testing variations, and even found applications for other species. Without a doubt, this is one of the most versatile rigs I have ever used...


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## DrumintheSuds

solid7 said:


> People took a dump before toilet paper, too.
> 
> Opinion noted, but fluoro is king for invisibility. And yes, it does make a difference. I discovered this on a snook fishing trip one day. Story for another time, but don't underestimate fluoro. That being said, don't make your entire rig from it, or spool your reel with it.


Not trying to argue but how does leader material on a bottom rig make a difference when you have a hook that is clearly visible to a fish at the end of it? A fish doesn't know what fluoro is or even what a hook is. The bait on the hook is the only thing attractive or unattractive to a fish. I always fish with a bead because I think it helps fish looking for fleas and coquinas to find my bait easier. I don't think the leader material is going to keep a fish from hitting fresh shrimp, a sandflea or cut bait.


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## plotalot

SmoothLures said:


> Complex to put in words, but stupid easy to tie.


I personally despise loops. Solid7 got me to thinking about being able to tie on replacement droppers. I came up with this idea; tie an overhand knot on the main leader line and cinch it down, then tie the dropper directly to the main line above the overhand knot with a uni knot. The dropper can slide up the line, but the overhand knot acts as a stopper stopping it from sliding down. I tested this with 16# Momoi Hi Catch on to 30# of the same, it seemed strong when pulled to failure. I didn't put a scale on it or test it against any other connections however. Therefore my claims are based on my feel and opinion. If I was working with presnelled droppers, I feel confident in being able to make one of these rigs under a minute.


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## solid7

DrumintheSuds said:


> Not trying to argue but how does leader material on a bottom rig make a difference when you have a hook that is clearly visible to a fish at the end of it? A fish doesn't know what fluoro is or even what a hook is. The bait on the hook is the only thing attractive or unattractive to a fish. I always fish with a bead because I think it helps fish looking for fleas and coquinas to find my bait easier. I don't think the leader material is going to keep a fish from hitting fresh shrimp, a sandflea or cut bait.


The pompano rig is not a "bottom rig", and pompano, as a species, are notoriously "leader shy". Some will argue that they still catch them, even with highly visible leaders, but as a fisherman, and one who immensely enjoys eating pompano, I aim to compensate for their likes and dislikes, so as to catch as many as possible per outing. We can only guess to a degree why they like or dislike something, but when something works, it just does. (and sometimes that is all that matters - not the science behind it)

I like to fish pompano, and I catch a lot of them. What boggles my mind even more than why fluoro leaders seem to persuade them where mono sometimes doesn't, is why a bronze colored hook works so darn well? (I seem to catch 2-to-1 with bronze Kahle over other types of hooks) Considering that nothing dulls faster than a bronze Kahle hook, and I have to change them out sometimes 2 or 3 times on the same rig, I don't particularly enjoy it, but it works, and I make my rigs according to that fact.

Just for conversation - I learned the merit of fluoro while snook fishing one day. I was next to 2 kids, about 12 years old each. They were catching the snot out of snook. I hadn't caught one all day. I was using EXACTLY the same bait. (live mojarra) One of the kids sees me struggling, and says, "try this." He hands me a 7/0 RED circle hook, and tells me to put it on a fluoro leader. I did it, baited the hook, and FIRST cast out, caught a 3' snook, fishing the same spot that I had been in for a half hour. I proceeded to catch 2 more in a matter of about 20 minutes.


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## dudeondacouch

FishinMortician said:


> Dropper loops work well, too. But when using certain hooks, it is hard to get the line to pass through. This rig gets you past that obstacle. Also, when using smaller sized beads, a loop may not get through.



I've used most everything down to #10/#12 for small spots for bait, and I have yet to find any hook eyes that I can't get 15# dropper loops through. YMMV.


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## SmoothLures

DrumintheSuds said:


> fluorocarbon is a waste of money IMO.......People caught fish long before fluoro and pink ande works fine and dandy. I know some will argue but like I said it's just my opinion.


Indeed, I tie most of my table fish rigs out of 20 lb Sufix, it's a pink/peach color.


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## FishinMortician

dudeondacouch said:


> I've used most everything down to #10/#12 for small spots for bait, and I have yet to find any hook eyes that I can't get 15# dropper loops through. YMMV.


Yes, I understand that, but what if someone can't cast 15lb test ?

The Brinn rig is designed so that a caster can use a heavy leader, if he needs to, and still present a bait in a finesse fashion. For 15lb test, the loop knot is better, and it is a very effective rig to fish. I responded partly because I was grateful the man mentioned Earl in the article.....and partly because a few could benefit from my lucky experience with the man.

What works for me may not for you. Some benefit from using different hooks than others, even on the same rig. Weird, this fishing stuff. But anyone interested in learning Earls' rig should try it. When you get good at tying it, you will keep it for life.


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## John Purser

I used the Earl Brinn rig on the West Coast fishing for surf perch and I plan on using it now that I've returned to NC. As others have noted it was created with a specific mission in mind and for that mission it's very good. I prefer the simplicity of the double dropper loop rigs BUT as others have noted, I can't get a loop of line through the eye of the hook with 20# line. And if I'm using 3 or 4 oz of lead to hold bottom I don't feel good about casting using a 20 lb rig. Yes, I can cut the dropper loops open and tie directly to the hook but then a lot of the advantage of using the double dropper loop is gone for me.

If you're throwing light weights or have no trouble getting folds of adequate line though your hook eye then you may never need the Earl Brinn rig. But the day you need it....

The link at the head of this thread no longer works. Apparently the article referenced is behind a pay wall now. Here's another link to directions that include the famous original Earl Brinn Diagram.

http://strandfishingtips.blogspot.com/2010/11/earl-brinn-surf-rig.html


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## Drumdum

Surgeons loop on each end,leave tag ends however long you need them,tie a hook on with uni knot or whatever,wammo DONE DEAL... That's just me though.....


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## SmoothLures

John Purser said:


> I used the Earl Brinn rig on the West Coast fishing for surf perch and I plan on using it now that I've returned to NC. As others have noted it was created with a specific mission in mind and for that mission it's very good. I prefer the simplicity of the double dropper loop rigs BUT as others have noted, I can't get a loop of line through the eye of the hook with 20# line. And if I'm using 3 or 4 oz of lead to hold bottom I don't feel good about casting using a 20 lb rig. Yes, I can cut the dropper loops open and tie directly to the hook but then a lot of the advantage of using the double dropper loop is gone for me.
> 
> If you're throwing light weights or have no trouble getting folds of adequate line though your hook eye then you may never need the Earl Brinn rig. But the day you need it....
> 
> The link at the head of this thread no longer works. Apparently the article referenced is behind a pay wall now. Here's another link to directions that include the famous original Earl Brinn Diagram.
> 
> http://strandfishingtips.blogspot.com/2010/11/earl-brinn-surf-rig.html


I don't know what happened to that site. Looks like they shut down in July. With all the negative response this thread got, I won't bother looking for the pictures to put back on here. 



Drumdum said:


> Surgeons loop on each end,leave tag ends however long you need them,tie a hook on with uni knot or whatever,wammo DONE DEAL... That's just me though.....


That's what I've done for 2 years now. Works great. Just add fleas.


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## greg12345

this thread was before FM came up with his improved EB rig. not to knock river's rig (i fish it) but there are some advantages to EB/FM rig: ability to add 3 baits, ability to use lighter lb test for the drops/snoods, ability for the bait to spin around the main rig body, etc.

the FM rig was a simple yet innovative improvement over EB and he deserves props for that. i'll confess that i don't fish it that much b/c i'm lazy to tie/carry separate rig bodies and snoods. usually standard double drop for me, 25-30 lb fluoro, no hardware, quality circle hook, live fleas, and put it where the fish are...


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## John Purser

greg12345 said:


> this thread was before FM came up with his improved EB rig. not to knock river's rig (i fish it) but there are some advantages to EB/FM rig: ability to add 3 baits, ability to use lighter lb test for the drops/snoods, ability for the bait to spin around the main rig body, etc.
> 
> the FM rig was a simple yet innovative improvement over EB and he deserves props for that. i'll confess that i don't fish it that much b/c i'm lazy to tie/carry separate rig bodies and snoods. usually standard double drop for me, 25-30 lb fluoro, no hardware, quality circle hook, live fleas, and put it where the fish are...


Well, it's usually my role to be that one guy who's genuinely unafraid to ask that stupid question so here I go:

Who's "FM" and do you have a link to this "improved rig"?

Thanks,

John


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## tjbjornsen

"Fishin Mortician" 

He is in this thread.

Do a search and you will no doubt find his posts detailing how to tie the FM rig.



John Purser said:


> Well, it's usually my role to be that one guy who's genuinely unafraid to ask that stupid question so here I go:
> 
> Who's "FM" and do you have a link to this "improved rig"?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John


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## tjbjornsen

http://www.pierandsurf.com/fishing-forum/showthread.php?114524-The-Mortician-s-Rig-A-How-To


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## John Purser

tjbjornsen said:


> "Fishin Mortician"
> 
> He is in this thread.
> 
> Do a search and you will no doubt find his posts detailing how to tie the FM rig.


Thanks to you and Fishin Mortician. Nice rig!


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## FishinMortician

Observation and adaptation will always be the best way forward for any fisherman. Trying something new might make you better, but if you never try, you will never know. The most important aspect influencing your performance will always be finding the stupid fish. Next up will be your timing, are you there on the right day ? Next will be your bait, is your bait the right bait today ? Those three things are difficult to know. You can speculate and figure based on your level of skill, but you cannot control any of them. However, the next most important aspect will be your presentation. Now that is something you can control. You own that. You want to present your baits in the best fashion you can manage, and that means using your best rigs.

Earl fished since he was a kid and taught himself many things. His passing was far too quickly for my taste and I miss discussing "things" with him. His pompano rig allowed him to use a heavy rig body for casting five ounce sinkers at distance, and once out there, presented his baits using a light weight leader. Here in NE Florida the fish do swim in close, but there are many days they hang out on the backside of the furthest bar. If your baited rig isn't there, well you sit and wait for them to change their minds.

My rig builds on what Earl began. The fact that my leaders don't foul is what makes it a tad better. Also, it is easier to switch out leaders in case a bluefish fouls you, or you just want to try a different combination of beads. I make my rigs at home and store them in a rig wallet so I always have something different ready to go.

I have made several variations since I posted that how to. I even attach a twisted leader for when conditions are rough. Currently, I am using 60lb test mono leader material, crimped. A swivel sinker clip at the bottom and a simple loop at the top. The leaders are made from a mono fishing line called Amnesia, in 20 lb test. I use Owner Mosquito hooks in size #1 for fishing Fishbites. Mustad circle demons in size 1/0 for clam, crab and sand fleas, and size 2/0 or shrimp. Pompano are aggressive but the easier the hook enters his mouth the better.

One of the keys to this rig is that the leader slides when a fish takes the bait. This gives him a little more time with the bait in his mouth before the sinker and the rod begin to provide resistance. I like to fish four, five and six rods, all spiked.

Not sure if they will work in Washington, but give it a try and see how you get along with it. Hope you enjoy it, and you are welcome. Let me know if you have any questions as you go.


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## John Purser

Thanks FishinMortician. I just moved back to NC after decades of living far away. I'm just starting to learn how the fish swim on this side of the continent. As soon as the Easter Weekend is over and the crowds thin out I'll be back out there.

Have a good one!

John


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## BritBri

Very informative thinking there FM.
Amnesia is the most used hook leader in the uk.
Its pretty abrasion resistant , fairly stiff and as the name says, no memory.
Any leader that gets twisted up by a fish can be straightened by running the fingers tightly down the full length and pulling at the same time.


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## Guest

Article still available.

https://web-beta.archive.org/web/20110515151504/http://www.examiner.com/fishing-in-charleston-sc/the-earl-brinn-bottom-rig


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## greg12345

interesting that you have moved to mono for your snoods. i am a fluoro disciple and always will be but plenty of better fisherman than me have been catching on mono leaders for years.

amnesia is great stuff. i have a bunch of the sunset and also chartreuse in all different tests for building sighters into my fly fishing nymphing leaders. can see it across the river in any light, no memory at all, easy to knot/tie.


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## FishinMortician

Well Greg.....let me ask you two questions.

I contend that if fluorocarbon was made naturally invisible underwater, due to it's molecular structure, then 250 lb test flouro would also be invisible. 

#1 - do you believe 250 lb flouro is invisible underwater ?

#2- do you believe that 20 lb flouro is more invisible underwater than 8 lb test mono ?

With the materials we have available today, the only way I can achieve any level of stealth is to drop down in line diameter size. The Amnesia is popular across the pond, so I thought I would see what the deal was. It is a strange line, made in USA and cheap cheap. I bought 200 meters of 20lb test for less than $12, including shipping. I decided to try it based on it's unusual property to become unkinked when pulled and stroked some. It kind of does, and I think that is an advantage. Crinkled lines reflect more sunlight flashes than straight.

I like to test my rigs when first designing them, and I tested this material, too. It consistently popped when the scale said 17 pounds. Knots always cheat you some, but I would suggest it is rated pretty close to what you could expect to experience. Never notice any issues forming up and cinching knots. Seems to hold the fish fine. I like it.

I also am "all mono" with regards to my main rig bodies, too. Mono has a wonderful ability to manage stress. This can be important when making powercast, after powercast. It is said to be elastic. It stretches to absorb the stresses of the cast, and then recovers during flight. Now fluorocarbon behaves in a way that is said to be plastic. In that it will also stretch, only there isn't much of a recovery. 

Yes, you can over stretch mono. It will not thin equally along it's entire length though. Instead it will thin here, and maybe there. Those thin spots are where it is now weakest. Mono can absorb the stresses of a powercast, and then relax, and that keeps things together going forward. Now flouro stretches too, but never recovers, and that makes it less desirable for casting at distance. It will continue to stretch and stretch, and thin and thin. You could avoid issues by upping the pound test, but what have you gained by doing that ?

Flouro offers other advantages over mono, like remaining stronger because it takes up less water than mono, but for me bait fishing, nothing it does is worthy of having. Yes, flouro is said to be more abrasion resistant, but my rigs don' really suffer from that. A hard mono does well enough for me. I like a hard mono leader material, fashioned up with aluminum crimps. Now that I taught myself about crimping mono, I don't miss forming up those knots. Yes, I can tie knots with the best of them, but crimping lets me build the rig faster, and better actually. Proper crimping is very hard to beat with a heavy mono - 60 pounds and above. The connections will be more durable, and that matters with regards to a rig.

I suggest that it is a fool that snickers at someone using mono, because I can introduce you to some people that can flat smoke your tail using mono. LOL

Yes sir.

Using flouro for your snoods/leaders is fine. No issues at all actually. I don't get confidence by paying premium prices, but if you get a warm fuzzy feeling, then good for you.

When flouro out fishes mono, there could be about a hundred reasons why- but one of them will not be invisibility. LOL


I have managed several variations of this rig system in the past couple of years. Make twisted leaders, loop knot tools, all sorts of things. Been fun. I fashion up my extreme distance rigs using the same system of attachment. Make a castable shark rig using the same principles that make this rig so nice. The leader slides some just before the sinker and rod engage. That gives the dumb fish a few extra moments with the bait and circle hook. Rig is useless if you strike at bites.

I appreciate that you like the rig, and hope we catch up and fish sometime. Let me know if you have any suggestions for me to try.


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## Guest

FishinMortician said:


> I contend that if fluorocarbon was made naturally invisible underwater, due to it's molecular structure, then 250 lb test flouro would also be invisible.
> 
> #1 - do you believe 250 lb flouro is invisible underwater ?
> 
> #2- do you believe that 20 lb flouro is more invisible underwater than 8 lb test mono ?
> 
> With the materials we have available today, the only way I can achieve any level of stealth is to drop down in line diameter size. The Amnesia is popular across the pond, so I thought I would see what the deal was. It is a strange line, made in USA and cheap cheap. I bought 200 meters of 20lb test for less than $12, including shipping. I decided to try it based on it's unusual property to become unkinked when pulled and stroked some. It kind of does, and I think that is an advantage. Crinkled lines reflect more sunlight flashes than straight.


I found a Youtube video that tests the visibillity of several different lines underwater, under different conditions.


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## greg12345

hey paul - my main reason for fluoro is to drop down the line size. don't know if i really believe the light refraction stuff that says fluoro is less visible under water but i do want as thin of a line as possible on my rig. i believe fluoro is thinner than mono on a lb test for lb test basis, certainly is at small tippet diameters for fly fishing. have used 20lb ande pink mono in the past to build leaders and seemed to work fine. i have found the mustad circle demons not as sharp as i would like for my pomp rigs, although one could argue that an overly sharp circle is not a good thing as it would get hung before reaching the corner of the jaw. i do use them in larger sizes for puppy drum and they have served me well there, very strong hook (if I am thinking of the same one).


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## Drumdum

greg12345 said:


> hey paul - my main reason for fluoro is to drop down the line size. don't know if i really believe the light refraction stuff that says fluoro is less visible under water but i do want as thin of a line as possible on my rig. i believe fluoro is thinner than mono on a lb test for lb test basis, certainly is at small tippet diameters for fly fishing. have used 20lb ande pink mono in the past to build leaders and seemed to work fine. i have found the mustad circle demons not as sharp as i would like for my pomp rigs, although one could argue that an overly sharp circle is not a good thing as it would get hung before reaching the corner of the jaw. i do use them in larger sizes for puppy drum and they have served me well there, very strong hook (if I am thinking of the same one).


 With you on the thinner size for getting more fish,as well as fluoro seems to be MUCH stiffer than reg mono,and seems tougher as well.........


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## spydermn

Love the video and the info!


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