# Reel tuning questions?



## ronny (Jun 10, 2010)

Hi, Can anyone tell me about the upgrades for reels, for long distance casting.
I am new to this and trying to learn as much as I can, but it is confusing.

How do centrifugal brakes, and magnetic brakes work. What is a knobby mag for?

Are there any tutorials for reel tuning?


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## Hooked Up (Feb 6, 2009)

you tube is a great start


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## ORF Pete (Sep 26, 2009)

I don't know all the details of reel tuning in terms of distance casting, but I'll share what I do. The most commonly replaced parts are the bearings as far as I know. Stock stainless steel bearings might be changed out for after-market ceramic bearings that are a bit smoother and spin longer. After market oil like the "rocket fuel" oil (google it) may be added depending on the bearings. The other most commonly replaced part (drag washers) has nothing to do with distance casting, it'd have more to do with fighting a fish.

Centrifugal brakes work on the principle of moving weight outwards from a rotating object to slow it down. To put it basically... you know how when you were a kid and you'd twist up the chains on a swing and get it to spin you around? If you put your legs out when you did that, you'd slow down, if you pull you legs in you speed up. Same concept with the spinning move that figure skaters do: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQLtcEAG9v0

With most reels this works by putting a pin on the left side of the reel (the clicker side), with two small pieces of plastic called "brakes". As the reel turns, the little pieces of plastic are force out, slowing the spin down a bit. Here is what this mechanism looks like on a Daiwa SL30SH: http://www.tgdevelopments.com/site/assets/images/SL20___30_brakes.gif

Magnetic braking works only with aluminum spools as far as I know, or composite spools with a custom aluminum plate on the side. While aluminum isn't magnetic like ferrous metals (ex: iron), it is affected by the magnetic field of a very strong magnet. The strong field will help slow the reel down a bit. There are two ways to "mag a reel", which means to add magnets to it. You static mag it, which means glue some strong rare earth magnets to the inside of the left size plate, getting the magnets as close to the spool as possible. For a knobby mag, you have to drill a hole in the side plate of the reel (or take out the clicker and use the clicker hole), and through that whole you pass and thumb screw or bolt. On the end of the screw/bolt goes the rare earth magnet(s). Turn the bolt/screw and the magnet gets closer to the spool, slowing it down more. Turn the screw the other way and the magnet moves further from the spool, thereby putting less magnetic braking power on it. In distance casting videos on youtube you might be able to see them adjusting the mag during their cast. I think they're starting off with full brakes, and gradually backing off them further into their cast.


Hope that helps.


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## ronny (Jun 10, 2010)

Oh ok. Thanks for the reply...

So braking is basically for control of backlashes then, and also to achieve maximum distance.
I guess it would be a matter of preference with what to upgrade your reels with.

Does anyone have any tutorials on youtube or anywhere for how to static mag and install a knobby mag? I have a hard time searching on there.


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## ORF Pete (Sep 26, 2009)

I'd suggest doing some googling. There is also a topic or two on static magging in the Fishing Bible here.


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## Hudak (Sep 10, 2007)

Controlling the spool is the most important factor when casting. To have the spool under too much control, you will never blow up, nor will you get much distance. Not enough control and you _may_ get that LONG cast off once in a while and find yourself blowing up more times then not.

There are 3 ways to control a spool. Oil (viscosity) in the bearings, line level, and finally brakes. Oil, the thicker, the slower the bearings. The thinner, the quicker the bearings. Pretty self-explanatory.

Line level, without trying to get into a discussion about natural braking, suffice is to say the lower the line level, the less chance of blowing up. There is a point of diminishing returns though, you can lower it to the point that you start to loose distance.

Brakes, either magnets or mechanical (centrifugal) work using the same basic principle. Once the spool hits maximum rpm's, the brakes will start to slow the spool down. If the spool rotates faster then the line is paying out for too long, blow-ups occur. Brakes slow the spool down so this doesn't happen.

Each of these 3 methods I mentioned can be adjust individually, or they can be used in concert to fine tune the reel. That is personal preference. Someone new may not want to attempt to tackle changing all 3 at the same time. Learning brake settings is most likely to be the easiest way to fine tune a reel.

Now, all of that is to say that mags in and of themselves is not going to add distance. Your spool is not going to all the sudden run faster or longer because you added mags. They will offer control of the spool to a level that allows you to cast harder without worrying about blowing up. Knobby mags in general do offer infinite braking adjustments that mechanical brakes do not offer. 

Knobby mag kits are relatively easy to install depending on what reel you are installing them in. A flat sided ABU lends itself to easier installation then say a Saltiest 30h. You can buy the kits from various websites. if you have never seen one in person, or never played with one, I would suggest having someone do it for you, or at the very least have someone with experience walk you through the process. Knobby mags can be a permanent modification depending on how you do it and what reel you choose.

Good luck with your project. If you take your time you will have a reel that can cast in any conditions easily controlled.

Robert


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