# PHIL HYDE's "HI-INERTIA" Casting Method



## ez2cdave

*High Inertia – a better route to surfcasting - By PHIL HYDE ( UK )

There are a few guidelines to follow; not rules, as you can ignore them if you wish, although doing so may make things more difficult.

1.	To cast we need to store energy in the rod. If the rod is too stiff, it will prove difficult to bend.

2.	To bend the rod, the load must either remain still, or travel slower than the tip of the rod.

3.	If we use the inertia of the lead to load the rod, at the start of the cast the weight MUST remain within the arc of the rod. If the weight moves outside the tip, at the wrong time, the resulting centrifugal force generated will either burn your thumb, cause a crack – off, or both.

4.	The HI – INERTIA cast is designed to get the line from the rod tip and the weight pulling through the rod at 90 degrees to the butt with the rod fully loaded. This is the point where the “Pull – Push” is executed, and is when the weight does move outside the tip. The resultant acceleration due to the now correctly applied centrifugal force accelerates the weight with apparently no effort.

5.	The most interesting point here is that the rod tip will still be bent at 90 degrees as the weight goes past and on its way. The rod tip now has no load, and the final straightening is what accelerates the reel spool to full speed. If the tip is badly designed, over-rung, or with inappropriate ringing patterns, the resultant tip overshoot is the cause of the unexplained crack – off that happens when the lead has travelled 25 to 50 yards.

6.	FINALLY, use HALF the effort you think you are going to need, let the rod do the work, so you don’t have to!!
THOSE ARE THE GUIDELINES, A PASSPORT TO SUCCESS.

The 90 Degree myth

Almost all the writings concerning casting methods refer to the off-the-ground method as starting with the rod at 7:30 (assuming the cast direction is at 12:00), also known as 45 degrees, and with the line from the rod tip to the weight and rig at 90 degrees to the rod.

IF the rod was absolutely rigid, then this might work if the user could accelerate continuously from the start to the delivery of the weight & bait. Unfortunately we need a bite indication capability in the rod, and also the facility to store energy so that the cast becomes easier…there is a lot of truth in the words often written, “the rod is too stiff for the user”.

Once you have paid your money and walked out of the shop, you are too late to change, and if you got a “freebie”, you don’t look a gift horse in the mouth!
So, whats wrong with the 45 degree: 90 degree method? And why doesn’t it work? Well it does work after a fashion, but due to the fact that when this method is used the rod is foreshortened as soon as the rod moves, the angle between the rod butt and the weight immediately exceeds 90 degrees, and the weight travels outside the tip. This premature “outing” of the weight/bait generates centrifugal force. 

Due to the use of force to compensate for this outing, this is a MAJOR cause of dangerous crackoffs, as the weight is pulling along the length of the line, rather than pulling the rod into its full compression curve. It is relatively easy to break 80lb leaders this way and is why many casters have to use a “thumbie”. A real expert can cast colossal distances with a FISHING rod with almost no effort and no thumbie, and in some ways is a disappointment to watch. Pictures of casters grimacing and gritting their teeth just mean the caster involved is not as good as he/she thinks!


The Transition Point

What the hell is a transition point? Lets look at the classic off-the ground cast with an inside layout. This cast EXACTLY emulates what happens in a well – executed Pendulum cast, which is what everyone seems to want to do these days.

The cast (OTG or Pendulob) consists of two parts.

1.	The Javelin pull through.
2.	The turn – over.

The Javelin pull occurs as the leading hand guides the rod butt upwards, the up – rod hand following.

The turn – over occurs when the leading hand can go no further. The leading hand then pulls the butt round and in to the solar plexus. CAUTION!! If the butt of your rod is too long, you may wind yourself!! This is where the Transition occurs. If you have compressed your rod, your lead/bait will have moved to align itself to pull at 90 degrees to the rod butt WITH THE ROD BENT AT 90 DEGREES, and the transition is from an INSIDE to an OUTSIDE the rod tip position. 

This is where REAL distance is generated. The lead/bait is travelling fast, and to change its direction needs an extra input of energy. This is why the lead GOES ROUND THE OUTSIDE from this point, as its direction cannot change!!

As the rod turns over, the centrifugal force that with the first method could have caused a disaster now comes to our assistance. The rod now recovers from compression, and as the lead/bait is already moving, there is no extra pressure applied to the shock leader to cause a crack-off, and the lead/bait goes past the tip of the rod while the tip is STILL BENT AT 90 DEGREES. With a well – designed rod, the tip then straightens AS THE LEAD GOES BY and whips the reel spool up to speed. Remember that this all happens in a fraction of a second, which is why the emphasis for learners is to concentrate on Timing and Technique, and not the “Hit it harder, it’ll go”, beloved of those relying on brute strength as a substitute for T&T.

Here also can be a problem. If you have a modern lightweight 21st century blank, and it is equipped with the heavy clumsy rings from the 1970s, and specially the DIAMITE tip ring from the 1960’s, this is where rod recoil and subsequent overshoot can occur, this is the cause of the unexplainable crack-off’s that occur between 20 and 50 yards out. What happens is the rod overshoot pulls another couple of feet of line from the spool. This line has no-where to go, as the lead cannot accelerate to take up the slack. A side wind can help, but the usual result is a messy over-run, and in a competition could be a disaster!!

The above information is based on logic backed up by scientific facts. The model rod will demonstrate the above effects if this handout accompanies a booked demonstration – it is up to you to use the information if you wish. A smoother cast will deliver bait more efficiently and with less chance of damage to the bait.*


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## ez2cdave

Over 100 reads and no comments ?


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## pods

This type of cast seems like what I was doing when I was practicing on the field. I called it simply the off the ground cast (because the weight started on the ground)
I don't have enough experience to differentiate between this and an OTG to be honest. But I was able to chuck it way out, even with a spinner.
My fishing casts usually use a sputnik and some sort of clip down or bite leader hanging by the weight so I cannot start on the ground so I have to work on the Hatteras type cast.
(and yes, I read this last night without comment, as I am a newb)
pods


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## Danman

I'm a poor reader


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## luv_2_fish_2

My eyes got blurry and rolling and my head felt dizzy reading the details....


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## ez2cdave

Danman said:


> I'm a poor reader


Maybe just the Diagram will help . . .


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## ez2cdave

*http://www.stripersonline.com/t/873721/why-is-a-pendulum-cast-tougher-on-rod-tips-than-an-otg*


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## BlaineO

In my experience, the Unitech, Aerialized OTG, and Hi-Inertia are variations of a theme.

They are efficient casting techniques, especially when compared to an overhead thump, and very good to know when casting in a space constrained area.

As long as the sinker is in mostly the same plane during the power up, and power is not brought on too early, they are not likely to break a decent rod. Cheap or poorly made rods don't fare as well, and spinning rods with poor guide placement can snap off lines during the cast.

The casting release angle is fairly high with Hi-Inertia cast, usually there is a small delay or slowing of the early part of the cast to bring the release angle down a bit if it is windy.

Timing is less critical than with most casting techniques, but you can't be too sloppy anytime you're casting.

Blaine


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## ez2cdave

Thanks for all the constructive input, guys . . .


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## bstarling

Looks to me like a hybrid between the traditional OTG 90' and the Brighton cast. I can see where it would develop a lot of rod load. I can also see where it could snap a tip if it was over done.

Bill:fishing:


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## Tommy

Good information in Mr. Hydes Method. The problem for me is just too much of it. Practice a few fundamentals and you will soon be bombing casts a loooong way. Use body rotation, GET YOUR ARMS EXTENDED away from your body and keep them there until it is time to punch/pull and get your feet set for a solid base.

If using a brighton/high inertia cast make sure that you start slow and finish fast. This gives the sinker time to swing out from under the tip before you really apply the pull. If you hit it hard from the start you may end up with a busted tip.

To add power, add rotation to give a bigger rod/sinker arc and remember to finish with a strong punch pull (arms have to be extended to do this). 

Tommy


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## ez2cdave

Tommy said:


> Good information in Mr. Hydes Method. The problem for me is just too much of it. Practice a few fundamentals and you will soon be bombing casts a loooong way. Use body rotation, GET YOUR ARMS EXTENDED away from your body and keep them there until it is time to punch/pull and get your feet set for a solid base.
> 
> If using a brighton/high inertia cast make sure that you start slow and finish fast. This gives the sinker time to swing out from under the tip before you really apply the pull. If you hit it hard from the start you may end up with a busted tip.
> 
> To add power, add rotation to give a bigger rod/sinker arc and remember to finish with a strong punch pull (arms have to be extended to do this).
> 
> Tommy


Tommy,

Thanks for your expert input !

Do you think you could simplfy Phil Hyde's description of the Hi-Inertia Cast for those of us who struggle with UK terminology and wording ?

It would be greatly appreciated, sir . . .

Thanks, in advance !


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## jcallaham

some body please help me.this stuff is way more than my brain can handle. could you just give me a proper guide layout for optimum distance. I will install it right away. 
the crackoff/backlash described happens to me waaaay to often. I do understand the the part about less effort,but sometimes I just want that little bit more and lose self control .


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## Tommy

I'm not going to try to interpret Mr. Hyde's instructions. Too much room for error on my part... 

I'm a believer in keeping the cast simple. 

Over the past 14 years I've analyzed and studied casting styles to an almost obsessive level. Hatteras, flat arc, ground-cast, high-swing. What I've learned is that you can confuse yourself with too much information. You can get so wrapped in small technical details that you lose sight of what you're trying to do, create a smooth and powerful cast that takes the rod and sinker through big arc and sends the sinker/bait to the horizon. Keeping the rod and sinker on plane (thanks Peter Thain) really helps cut the power leaks, especially when using a pendulum style.

Learn to use your body, uncoiling like a spring. The large muscles are much stronger than the arms/shoulders. 

Get those arms extended away from your body and keep them there until you are in position to punch/pull. This is one of the hardest things to do in casting and I'd say that 90% or more of the fishermen (and tournament casters) out there collapse the left arm too early in the cast. Training yourself to keep the left extended and then to pull HARD with it as you punch will do more for distance than focusing on getting the proper angle between sinker and rod tip. Much of that will work itself out naturally if you learn to start slow and finish fast....

Keep it simple and make the rod work for you.

Tommy


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## glenn3564

Ironically, yesterday, without reading the above message on distance throwing, I taught my 21 year old son how to throw a 12' surf rod and get greater distance out of it.
The ironical part is that I understand what ez2cdave is saying 100%. I used 2 scenarios with my son. Remember when you started playing golf, you tried to overpower the
club and that always ended up in shorter distance and hitting your second shot out of the woods. Let the club ""rod"" do the work and be smooth. Secondly, comparing
a professional bull whip artist and a fly fisherman and how they throw a fly to ""loading"" the rod. If you start off the ground with your back swing then the rod does not
bend or "load" with that extra torque needed to get distance. Just like popping a bull whip, you have to "swing" the rod backwards instead of just laying it gently backwards.
The next time you "lay" it backwards, look at your rod. It's almost perfectly straight. But, with a smooth back swing, your rod at the end of your back swing is already bent
backwards in effect loading extra power in the tip so that when you come forward (for comparison only) you have already added 10% more forward spring to the rod than
the "0" spring loaded when starting from a dead stop on your back swing.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it. My son went from 83 yards average on his first 3 swings to 112 average before ""he got it"".


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## Vinnx

Looks interesting, but also kinda scary lol. I imagine if you're finger slips the weight is gonna go rocketing down the beach. I guess it's always necessary to know a good straight cast and a distance cast. Will try it.


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## ez2cdave

Vinnx said:


> Looks interesting, but also kinda scary lol. I imagine if you're finger slips the weight is gonna go rocketing down the beach. I guess it's always necessary to know a good straight cast and a distance cast. Will try it.


A "crackoff", before the spool or line is released, is the most dangerous on any "side-swipe" cast, whether, off the ground, hi-inertia, pendulum, etc. 

The lead weight can travel laterally down the beach, at well over 200 mph ( with a "strong" caster ). 8 oz. of lead, travelling at 300 ft/sec + is a deadly missile, quite capable of killing someone. 

That is why the UK anglers have that "10 lb-test / Oz. of weight Shock-Leader" rule of thumb. 

I have seen fishermen using "power-casts" repeatedly break 60 lb-test mono Shock Leaders, when throwing 8 & Bait, strictly from the centrifugal force of the cast.


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## Tommy

glenn3564 said:


> Ironically, yesterday, without reading the above message on distance throwing, I taught my 21 year old son how to throw a 12' surf rod and get greater distance out of it.
> The ironical part is that I understand what ez2cdave is saying 100%. I used 2 scenarios with my son. Remember when you started playing golf, you tried to overpower the
> club and that always ended up in shorter distance and hitting your second shot out of the woods. Let the club ""rod"" do the work and be smooth. Secondly, comparing
> a professional bull whip artist and a fly fisherman and how they throw a fly to ""loading"" the rod. If you start off the ground with your back swing then the rod does not
> bend or "load" with that extra torque needed to get distance. Just like popping a bull whip, you have to "swing" the rod backwards instead of just laying it gently backwards.
> The next time you "lay" it backwards, look at your rod. It's almost perfectly straight. But, with a smooth back swing, your rod at the end of your back swing is already bent
> backwards in effect loading extra power in the tip so that when you come forward (for comparison only) you have already added 10% more forward spring to the rod than
> the "0" spring loaded when starting from a dead stop on your back swing.
> 
> That's my story and I'm sticking to it. My son went from 83 yards average on his first 3 swings to 112 average before ""he got it"".



Let me start by saying that I understand your thinking here. 15 years ago I thought exactly the same way, catch the sinker while still flying away from you on the backswing. Easy to think you would get better distance by getting a earlier bend in the rod.


It really isn't the best way to longer casts. Here's why.

The rod needs to be loaded progressively. If you turn into the cast and load the rod while the sinker is still traveling away from you the sinker turns and accelerates too quickly. You have probably heard it expressed as "hitting the rod too early". This can cause several problems but the most likely are thumb burn cause by slippage (you just can't hold it) and the sinker being pulled directly overhead and not accelerating "around the corner" at 45 degrees. I was the world's worst years ago at this, I thought that hitting it HARD and hitting it FAST were the keys to distance. Not so.

Think *in slow/out fast*.

Concentrate on accelerating the sinker, starting slowly and finishing with burst of power late (strong punch/pull). The sinker will already be in motion and you will be able to hit it as hard as you want with little thumb slip. You can throw 8 oz and a chunk of bait standing in the surf with wet hands without thumb slip when you get this down pat. And the payload will fly farther. 

It is about accelerating the sinker/bait through the largest arc that your cast will allow. It is not about maximum rod bend.

I hope this helps clarify.

Tommy


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## 9 rock

Tommy said:


> Let me start by saying that I understand your thinking here. 15 years ago I thought exactly the same way, catch the sinker while still flying away from you on the backswing. Easy to think you would get better distance by getting a earlier bend in the rod.
> 
> 
> It really isn't the best way to longer casts. Here's why.
> 
> The rod needs to be loaded progressively. If you turn into the cast and load the rod while the sinker is still traveling away from you the sinker turns and accelerates too quickly. You have probably heard it expressed as "hitting the rod too early". This can cause several problems but the most likely are thumb burn cause by slippage (you just can't hold it) and the sinker being pulled directly overhead and not accelerating "around the corner" at 45 degrees. I was the world's worst years ago at this, I thought that hitting it HARD and hitting it FAST were the keys to distance. Not so.
> 
> Think *in slow/out fast*.
> 
> Concentrate on accelerating the sinker, starting slowly and finishing with burst of power late (strong punch/pull). The sinker will already be in motion and you will be able to hit it as hard as you want with little thumb slip. You can throw 8 oz and a chunk of bait standing in the surf with wet hands without thumb slip when you get this down pat. And the payload will fly farther.
> 
> It is about accelerating the sinker/bait through the largest arc that your cast will allow. It is not about maximum rod bend.
> 
> I hope this helps clarify.
> 
> Tommy


A couple of yrs ago my 70 yr old uncle was having trouble throwing his rods , he just could not get them to load , I showed him how he could start the rod in front bring it straight back over his shoulder let the weight bounce and sling shot it forward he was getting about 10-15 more yrds like this of course were only talking about a 50 yrd cast with 8nb but it was enough to make him happy

9


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## Steve Parker

I had a couple of lessons with this bloke back along.
Full of information and went into the theory far to much for my liking.
Spent the first hour talking about himself and the whys and wherefores.
All I wanted to do was improve my casting.
Really nice fella have to say.


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## bigroo

You can equate a good long distance cast to a long powerful golf shot. It starts very slow, you accelerate after you reach the top of the back swing all the power is released into the (swing/cast) at the last second. In the golf swing it's uncocking the wrist and releasing the club head. The casts power comes from the push and pull action at the last second. Both require a slow start, a continuous increase in acceleration and powerful release at the last second.


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## chris storrs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_2KWie9hAQ

or there's the other theory


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## bigroo

chris storrs said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_2KWie9hAQ
> 
> or there's the other theory


Yes of course the other theory.


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## Tommy

I like the other theory....


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## bigroo

Tommy said:


> I like the other theory....


 Me too


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## Tommy

If you apply the "other" theory (grip it and rip it) AND apply just a bit of technique....

You end up with a powerful cast that flies far.

Tommy


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## bigroo

Tommy said:


> If you apply the "other" theory (grip it and rip it) AND apply just a bit of technique....
> 
> You end up with a powerful cast that flies far.
> 
> Tommy


I won several long drive contest using that method.


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## pods

Funny y'all brought up Tin Cup, as that is where my username (and nickname) came from.
"You got that shot pods, it's a hooded 4 iron."


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## william1

Just my opinion. I see a great deal of logic in Phils theory.In regard to the diagram. 1) The tip of the rod to the angle to the sinker in the starting position.The sinker being not at 90 degrees but angled considerably in tword the caster. The length of the line from the sinker to the tip is one of the controlling factors in keeping the sinker inside, while turning into the cast. If the drop is too short the sinker will straighten as you begin to turn ? (2) As you take your step to clear your hips and square your body to your target the caster has to start inclining his left hand to keep the weight on the inside tract. Rotating your body past that point that Phil discribes, with arms raised and waiting for your left hand to clear your face allows the sinker to turn outside the proposed tract and unloads the rod?


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## ez2cdave

william1 said:


> Just my opinion. I see a great deal of logic in Phils theory.In regard to the diagram. 1) The tip of the rod to the angle to the sinker in the starting position.The sinker being not at 90 degrees but angled considerably in tword the caster. The length of the line from the sinker to the tip is one of the controlling factors in keeping the sinker inside, while turning into the cast. If the drop is too short the sinker will straighten as you begin to turn ? (2) As you take your step to clear your hips and square your body to your target the caster has to start inclining his left hand to keep the weight on the inside tract. Rotating your body past that point that Phil discribes, with arms raised and waiting for your left hand to clear your face allows the sinker to turn outside the proposed tract and unloads the rod?



Those are some very interesting observations. Looking at the diagram, I think you are right.


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## william1

Everyone talks about rotation , yes very important. After stepping with your outside foot to start rotation and clearing your hips the rod is kept behind you and is carried in a high position. Do not rotate like a top. The beginning of the power stroke is a diagional plane accross your body with your arms held in a comfortable position .If you spin like a top you loose the benefit of using you body and your legs to power the rod thru. Look at Tommy's viedo .He begins to slowly raise his hands when he is not facing the target but approximately 90 degrees from his target position. He carries the rod thru a diagional pattern accross his body that ends up transfering his weight to his left leg. Just my opinion.


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## ez2cdave

william1 said:


> Everyone talks about rotation , yes very important. After stepping with your outside foot to start rotation and clearing your hips the rod is kept behind you and is carried in a high position. Do not rotate like a top. The beginning of the power stroke is a diagonal plane across your body with your arms held in a comfortable position .If you spin like a top you loose the benefit of using you body and your legs to power the rod thru. Look at Tommy's video .He begins to slowly raise his hands when he is not facing the target but approximately 90 degrees from his target position. He carries the rod thru a diagonal pattern across his body that ends up transferring his weight to his left leg. Just my opinion.


I just watched Tommy's video again . . . Great observations about his technique. He really has great leverage and timing !


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## lucky strike

Does anyone know if Phil Hyde "Simple surfcasting pt 1" exists. Is it online to view? It was a good tape! Basic , yes but correct.
LS


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## ez2cdave

lucky strike said:


> Does anyone know if Phil Hyde "Simple surfcasting pt 1" exists. Is it online to view? It was a good tape! Basic , yes but correct.
> LS


*Is this the one you are talking about ?

Part 1*

*http://torrentcrazyunblocked.co/torrent/2822979/sea-angling-simple-surf-casting-part-1-etf-release

Part 2

http://www.vitorrent.org/torrent/ade89134ee8871848c540f684ac67721a35b32a7*


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## lucky strike

Yes 1 is the correct one but as I went to download it ,it got to be a mess on my PC-so I decided not to do it.


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## ez2cdave

lucky strike said:


> Yes 1 is the correct one but as I went to download it ,it got to be a mess on my PC-so I decided not to do it.


*PART 1*







*PART 2*


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