# FF Transducer mount



## shadyfisher85

Well after fishing my first year with the yak blind (but still catching plenty of fish). I've decided to get a Fishfinder. I know that the recommended outfit is probably the humminbird 385ci, but I think I have settled on the humminbird 161 wich is a combo ff gps in black and white and with a few less bells and whistles than the 385ci, but I think it will fit my needs. 

Anyways, the Humminbird 161 comes with a transom mount transducer and I have a sit-inside kayak.

I am not sure of how the transducer install would go with this:

I am not sure how a through-hull mount would work with my SINK as I dont really have a flat surface on the bottom to mount it to. I noticed that Humminbird has a kayak mounting kit. Does anyone know if you can convert the transom mount transducer to be through-hull with this kit?

I guess the other option would be to mount the transducer on the outside of my yak on the back, but this would probably require drilling holes (probably not a good idea?). Does anyone have suggestions? I have the Ascend FS10 SINK from basspro, does anyone else on here have that boat and installed a FF?

BTW Sorry for the kind of long read, but I just want to put all details and ideas that I had out there.


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## O Shin Rin

*you might try this*

a guy on TKAA made this , it's pretty cool might work for you 
http://tkaa.org/index.php?topic=1014.0


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## shadyfisher85

wow! Thats pretty awesome looking. This might be just the solution as I was thinking of getting a scotty triple mount anyway. Thanks for the link. I'll wait and see if others weigh in, but I might end up doing this.


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## shadyfisher85

Does anyone know if you can use the through-hull method with a transom mount transducer?


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## surfnsam

99% of transducers are transom mount. the easiest way to mount the transd. is with electrical duct seal (home depot for 6.00) its a clay like substance you can mold to the shape of the bottom of the sink and press the transd. into it, holds great and alot of guys are using this method now. works great.


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## shadyfisher85

ok, well the FF is supposed to come sometime this week. I've been looking around some other boards and saw the electrical putty method. I just didnt know if you could use this with the transom mount transd. I think (since it seems to be the easiest), I will probably try the electrical putty first and see how that goes. Thanks for suggestions. I will report back once I get everything installed and tested on the water.


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## husker1

I will second the use of elect. duct seal it is very simple to use and holds very well just be sure to use enough and push your transducer in real good. as far as your transom mount that will not matter most transducers are mine is and with the putty it works great. fill free to ask me any questions.


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## ComeOnFish

Say good bye to glues and vassline!

I tested duct putty sealant. It works well. But I haven't done a long term study. But it's cheap, easy to apply, no sanding, no waiting, easy to redo it, and more dependable than glueing method.


It cost about 2 dollars at Lowes or Home Depot. If you form the puppy ball right, it won't fail like the most of glues (silicon, S200, and Marime Goop). 

1. No sanding required. Just clean the hull and let the hull dry. 
2. Clean your hands and make the putt ball looks like a small egg.
3. Make sure no air booble are crease on the ball.
4. Put the putty ball on the hull
5. put the dry transducer on the putty ball and press the transducer down nice and firmly.
6. Press the edge of the putty ball against the perimeter of the transducer and the hull
7. No waiting time. You are ready to go.

If failed, repeat step 1-7.

You can also seal the holes where wires co through with the Duct Putty Sealant. 

Joe


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## shadyfisher85

I have some heavy plastic foam stuff (similar to the consistancy of pull noodle but harder)and may use it to further secure the Transd. My plan is to sort of combine the well and putty method. I just don't want the thing to fall off while I'm hauling my yak on my roof upside down.

Here is my plan: 
Cut a foam puck to be about an inch and a half larger than the transd. all the way around. 
Cut a hole in the middle of the puck to slightly larger than the transd.
Glue puck to yak hull and let cure overnight.
Cut slots in foam on opposite sides.
Place putty in middle of foam puck.
Push transd. firmly into putty.
Slide velcro strap through slots made in foam block and strap down for added security.

Ill post some pics, once I actually do it.


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## husker1

I can say I only used the putty and have made many fishing trips and hauled the yak a few hundred miles and my transducer has never moved it has been in place for over 6 months.


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## IRIFishing

Okay maybe I'm a little thick...is the transducer mounted on the bottom of the hull or in the kayak? 

Thanks for helping the guy lost in the fog.

IRIFishing


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## O Shin Rin

inside


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## IRIFishing

Thanks.

IRIFishing


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## ComeOnFish

shadyfisher85 said:


> I have some heavy plastic foam stuff (similar to the consistancy of pull noodle but harder)and may use it to further secure the Transd. My plan is to sort of combine the well and putty method. I just don't want the thing to fall off while I'm hauling my yak on my roof upside down.
> 
> Here is my plan:
> Cut a foam puck to be about an inch and a half larger than the transd. all the way around.
> Cut a hole in the middle of the puck to slightly larger than the transd.
> Glue puck to yak hull and let cure overnight.
> Cut slots in foam on opposite sides.
> Place putty in middle of foam puck.
> Push transd. firmly into putty.
> Slide velcro strap through slots made in foam block and strap down for added security.
> 
> Ill post some pics, once I actually do it.



ShadyFisher,

Try only duct seal first. I think duct seal only without additional stuff willl work. If tranducer comes off, just mount the transducer again. Duct seal is pretty sticky and firm enough to hold a transducer in place when a kayak is carried upside down.

joe

You may not need additional stuff at all.
Joe


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## shadyfisher85

ok, I'll give it a try with the just the duct seal. Hopefully I will get everything this week and get out for a test run saturday.


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## mmanolis2001

I agree with ComeOnFish. 

The duct seal method worked great for me last year. Install took 2 Min's and lasted the 5 months i fished it. The kayak has been outside sitting upside down for the last several weeks. I just checked the transducer and guess what....

Still holding strong. :beer:


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## surfnsam

nice pics mmanolis, getting somme good use with that camera i see


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## ComeOnFish

mmanlois,
Thanks for posting pic and your experience. That helps us a lot. now I can stop my testing. Well, I tested this way. By using the same Duct Seal, I mounted a small water bottle on the bottom of a Rubber Maid plastic container. The water bottle is full of water and it is heavier than transducer proportionally. I used minimal amount of Duct Seal, Not like you  (on the picture). I have been carrying a Rubber Maid plastic box upside down on my truck for 3 days, and it doesn't look like the bottle will be comming off soon. And also, I am keeping one of my kayak upside down to see if the transducer comes off.

For my initial water testing:
I had my kayak up side up on my truck bed. And I drove 40 minutes on Hway and drove on a gravel road for 30 minutes. The tranducer worked fine. I think I will carry Duct Putty Sealant on my truck just in case.

I think Duct Putty Sealant is re-usable once it dries. You can also seal the holes where wires go through (on deck and battery box) with the Duct Putty Sealant. Duct Seal is a whole lot better than Glue stuff. It sticks on any surface, is easy to remove, is not messy and no waiting time.

I tested water temp reading:

My initial test was done in 37.8F water and Air temp was 47F. It took approximately 30 minutes for my FF showing 37.9F (Water) from 46F. Not as quick as well system with water. Because when I use well system, I keep my transducer in the water before the launch. But Duct Seal is better (faster) than Glue stuff, I think.

Joe


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## Slapwater

Hey Shady, I have the bass pro fs120 sit on, and I too was weighting the benefits of permanently mounting the transducer or just use the suction cup that came with it, and there are a couple reasons why I chose to use the suction cup, #1 this is just my first kayak and I don't want to glue down the transducer and then have to buy another transducer for the next new kayak, #2 portability when I am heading out to fish I just throw the yak on the ladder racks upside down there are no wires to worry about, all I do to get setup and start fishing is strap down the handy portable bag and stick the suction cup to the side, just making sure that the bottom of the transducer is underwater and level. Good luck and see ya on da water.


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## shadyfisher85

Well, I went ahead and did a permanent install and I am happy with it. I used the duct seal for the transducer, which I guess is kind of semi-permanent. I will post a report of my first outing today later. Long story short, I saw some nice stripes today!


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## sleepyhead

AHh haaa I finally found this thread again. I could not remember what forum I saw this thread. I used the closed cell foam on my yak. But I think I will be using the duct seal now.. I hope to test it out Sunday.


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## shadyfisher85

The duct seal is very easy to work with and the FF seems to be working well with it.


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## sleepyhead

Ok I have another question. I think I read somewhere were some folks have been using a cordless drill battery like a dewalt 18 volt. Do you think that would work? I have a hitachi drill battery that I thought about using. I think that would be great since I would be able to recharge it. Thanks


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## shadyfisher85

That sounds like a good idea, but I have no idea about this. I used the humminbird 12volt gel cell which comes with a charger all for less than $30 on amazon. Maybe you should start a new thread that addresses the drill battery for FF as the title. It might get more responses that way.


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## sleepyhead

Well me being me I went ahead and gave it a try. I looked at the owners manual aftter the fact. But the owners manual says the FF will take 10-17 volts DC. On the FF it said it showed 17.5 volts. So I guess it will work. Sorry to hijack the thread.


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