# rotted plywood



## sandcruiser (Jan 15, 2007)

I know this is not the boat forum, but for some reason I can't start a thread there. 

If anyone has any experience with replacing plywood in a transom on an old jon boat I could sure use some advice. 

It's a 16' Lowe line flat bottom jon boat for flounder fishing. The plywood is rotten in the left and right sides of the transom. The center seems to be solid, but it looks awful. It looks like quite a job to dig out all that wood and replace it. 
Any ideas or suggestions?


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## repair5343 (Jul 8, 2001)

Its remove and replace time (R+R)
Just do it not easy


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## fishbait (Nov 11, 2005)

Yep.

Rotted wood = Check Mate.


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## JerryB (May 15, 2003)

i have not seen that exact boat, but on my jon boat the top of the transom board is tucked up inside the aluminum that forms the transom. the bottom of the transom board is held in place by a formed piece of aluminum that is riveted in place AFTER the transom board is installed. 

so if yours is like mine you will need to drill out the rivets on the formed piece and remove it from the boat. then you should be able to remove the transom board in one piece to use as a pattern. You may need to romove other fittings along the way such as stern eyes or splashwell scuppers first. 

as for what plywood to use i would look for a place that sells "CCA treated marine plywood" 

that is not the same as the pressure treated plywood sold at most lumber yards. the treated plywood sold at lumber yards is usually "ACQ" treated and the ACQ will cause terrible corrosion to your boat and ruin it. you can also use "MDO" plywood is you give it a good caot or two of paint first. 

I will be replacing a transom board on one of my boats this summer so i have read up on this over the winter.

good luck,
jerry


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## rgking03 (Mar 20, 2005)

3/4 inch fur 4x8 runs about $150-200.. Marine grade..


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## sandcruiser (Jan 15, 2007)

*right on assessment*

JerryB, 
You have described my boat to a "t", however I have rotten wood on either end and it looks like the coming out part won't be a problem. Drilling the rivets out is not a problem. The rolled aluminum that picture frames this board in place would have to be bent out to accept the new board (correct?)
ACQ is a terrible replacement for CCA and is highly corrosive. Whoever owned the boat before had the transom beefed up with two steel plates sandwiching the original wood/alum transom. It also has a cap board up top that bolts down directly through this transom board. I've been told to leave it alone and fish with it, but I'm going to the trouble of bead blasting and repainting her, I just hate the wood being rotten even though it may not affect the strength whatsoever as the wood in the center of the transom is good.
Your thoughts?


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## JerryB (May 15, 2003)

rgking03 said:


> 3/4 inch fur 4x8 runs about $150-200.. Marine grade..


that's about the price i have found around here for 3/4 marine grade fir, or okume, as well. the CCA treated marine grade is about $80 at a place in elkhart indiana, don;t know about shipping any. that is used by most of the pontoon boat makers in this area for floor decking. 

sandcruiser, send me a photo i'll take a look and see about the "framework" needing to be bent. i sent you my addy in a pm.

cheers
jerry


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## LiteTackleChamp (Jul 29, 2005)

u can buy a solution that u can inject into the rotted wood and it will reinforce the wood, its sorta a fiberglass compound, i no boaters world carries it and mayb west marine


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## sandcruiser (Jan 15, 2007)

*thanks guys*

I've had about half of the people who have seen it say "I wouldn't touch it...just go fishing", then you get the other half that say "fix it right" and enjoy it for a long time. 

I'm going to look into the wood repair thing also.


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## BLUESMAN (Nov 4, 2003)

*Laminate?*

Why not fabricate your own board out of white oak and epoxy? Or, just edge join it with epoxy and biscuits? White Oak lasts a lifetime and has no additives.
opcorn: opcorn:


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## sandcruiser (Jan 15, 2007)

*edge joining?*

Do I rip out the bad wood and fill it with epoxy?
Please explain. Thanks.


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## captmikestarrett (Apr 28, 2004)

Have you guys ever heard of seaboard.. Cheap & easy as wood to work with and will never rot. 

For an extra sturdy transom take two sheets of this stuff and cut to size. Sandwich in between with them a sheet of aluminum. Bond the sandwich with 5200. 

To remove transom drill out rivets and in some cases you may need to hacksaw support brace on top off. Reattach with two angle iron pieces on top. Be sure to paint iron and also use 5200 under angle iron. This helps with bi-metal issues. 

Capt Mike


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## sandcruiser (Jan 15, 2007)

*decisions decisions*

Capn Mike, 
That was really the answer I was looking for....sawing out the aluminum cap that holds the wooden transom board in place and basically refabbing a new on on the top only. 
I may opt to go for the Get Rot fix it stuff to try first then maybe go for the all out repair. I do want to try and fish out of it on my next very close by vacation.
Thanks for all the input guys. JerryB, I did send you a shot of that transom rot. Don't know if you received it.


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## LiteTackleChamp (Jul 29, 2005)

capt i think u mean starboard, and that stuff is awesome just wouldnt use it for a stern, ur not supposed to use glue on it


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## firebox (Feb 3, 2003)

You might want to try going on line to www.shipshapetv.com It may be able to help.:fishing:


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