# Fishfinder Issues



## MetroMan (Mar 7, 2009)

I have a Humminbird PrianhaMAX 170. It has worked flawlessly on my past outings. Today it decided to act up and give me trouble. Quite often it would read a depth of zero, not showing and bottom contour information at all. It would sporadically work showing information that seemed accurate...then it would read zero again with a blank screen. At other times, it would randomly show depths of over 200 feet. 

Has anyone else had similar issues? Does anyone have any insight as to what may be wrong? All of my connections are secure, and the transducer is as secure as it has been since the initial installation. 
opcorn:


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## ComeOnFish (Apr 8, 2009)

If the transducer is secured then clean the connection.
If the connection is good then the transducer is not secured.

If you used any kind of glue, you have now (very good chance) a tiny gap between the hull and the transducer. - I think this is what you got I bet.

The best way of mounting a transducer is using a well and fill with 1/8 inch + of water. This case, you can simply remove the transducer and put it in the water for test. I have my tranducer under the center hatch in the well. I have long enought cable so I can remove the tranducer through the hatch and put the transducer in the water, when I doubt about readngs (water temp or depth).

Sometimes, I do side scan pilings manually when I fish BB in 50-90' of water because my transducer is removable from the center hatch.

joe


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## MetroMan (Mar 7, 2009)

Thanks for the insight, I will begin trouble shooting with that information in mind. 

I have a question about your "well" setup. What kind of container are you using as the well? The bottom of my hull isn't exactly flat. What can be used to minimize any gap between the bottom of the well and the shape of the hull?


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## Fishwander (Jul 2, 2010)

> MetroMan : I have a question about your "well" setup. What kind of container are you using as the well? The bottom of my hull isn't exactly flat. What can be used to minimize any gap between the bottom of the well and the shape of the hull?



A "well" can be constructed before , and after, permanent mounting of the transducer.

Generally , it can be constructed of any waterproof material ~ the easiest to obtain and fabricate is foam plastic (ie: computer parts packing material , home sheathing insulation board, etc.)

The bonding agent for sealing the foam to the yak can be just about anything (ie: silicone caulk , shoe goop , marine goop, epoxy, etc.)

The medium used in the well can be any liquid, so long as there is *no air bubble* between the transducer and the hull (ie: tap water , vasoline, sea water, etc.)
The reccomended volume of liquid in the well could be as little as 1/8 inch deep , thus minimizing spillage .

Fishwander


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## MetroMan (Mar 7, 2009)

Gotcha. Thanks for the clarification. My current setup has the transducer seated in a sponge, cut to fit snug. I used silicone to hold the transducer in the sponge.


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## MetroMan (Mar 7, 2009)

Joe, you were right on. I went to look at the transducer this morning, and my sponge holder wasn't as secured as it was when first installed. Maybe temperature fluctuations caused it to loosen? Either way, I will secure it again when I get some more goop.


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## Excalibur (Oct 27, 2004)

Hey Metro -- not sure how many 'beans' you want to throw at this issue but I have a Pmax170 that I've had on my kayak for 2 seasons without any problems at all. When I bought it, I went out on the net and found the kit that Humminbird sells that's specifically for mounting transducers in kayaks -- It was about 30 bucks and came with everything needed -- adhesive, a molded well, etc.

If you want to check it out, you can see it at capt dicks: http://www.captdick.net/NEW PRODUCTS.htm


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## news_watch (Jun 1, 2005)

I used the clear silicon Walmart carries and some computer foam to cut the well and mine has stayed put 2 seasons even with the kayak stored on the side in my garage.
$3.00

nw


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## surfnsam (Apr 28, 2008)

i switched to the sponge/vaseline mount, got tired of messing around with silicone. just silicone a sponge with a cut out for the transducer then add a little vaseline in the cut out and put the trans in. works well for kayaks with fairly flat bottoms. helped a fellow yaker with his installation and used GB duct seal from HD, its clay like and can be molded to fit hulls with sharp keels, he says it works perfectly and does not harden


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## Fishwander (Jul 2, 2010)

Sometimes , due to the thin nature of the plastic hull , a gap developes , and thus an air bubble occurs. This air bubble will interfere with the proper funcitioning of the transducer.

The fact that the error in reading the depth occurs sporaticly, I think that might be your problem. It would be solved by using a liquid medium. JMHO

Fishwander


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## MetroMan (Mar 7, 2009)

Thanks for all of the help and tips...really appreciated. When I originally secured my sponge to the hull, I did not secure it using silicone. I used some other cheaper super glue to hold the sponge. I forget why I did that, but it seemed like an ok idea at the time. I then filled the hole in the sponge with the silicone, then installed the transducer. From what I'm gathering, I should be okay by just re-securing the sponge assembly to the hull.

Thanks again for the tips. This is what I have to re-secure:


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## news_watch (Jun 1, 2005)

Metroman,
I'd start from scratch.
That rough bottomo surface might be hard to get covered without voids.
Secure your foam first then do the transducer.
nw


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## mmanolis2001 (Sep 11, 2009)

Re attaching the sponge will not solve the problem. The silicon on the trans must be secured to the hull or there will be air between the trans and hull. 

Did you rough up the bottom of the kayak before installing this trans? Even if the sponge glue failed the amount of silicon still left on the trans should have held the whole assemble tight. 
It also looks like that is a open cell sponge. That might cause an issue as well with water absorption (Swelling and contracting). The commonly used foam for trans blocks are a ridged closed cell material and will not soak up water.

You will have to clean all the existing silicon off the trans discard the sponge and start over. Look at the transducer install kits for an idea of the foam used for the block.

Or

Try the GB Weld duct seal after cleaning the trans.


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## MetroMan (Mar 7, 2009)

Good info! Thanks for the help, I'll be starting from square one on the transducer install. (I was gonna silicone the entire unit down, not _just_ the sponge. But I'm gonna do it again to make sure its right the second time around)


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